Build updates on my blog. https://aviationcomingeventually.blo...-delivery.html
Build updates on my blog. https://aviationcomingeventually.blo...-delivery.html
Are you enjoying the metal working aspect of the project? I'm at the same stage; after a couple of sessions I'm beginning to develop a little confidence in my technique. The rib building was so pleasant that, when progressing to fabricating 0.090 steel parts, I really felt like a total noob. And, alas, I am.Originally Posted by Tench745
I've done a fair bit of metal fabrication working in theatre, but nothing that requires the kind of finishing that aircraft parts require.
I always have to psych myself to deal with the noise and mess of working steel, but once I get going it's easy to lose myself for a few hours. It can be therapeutic to get lost in the work. I too feel in over my head occasionally (like every time I pick up a welding torch to practice).
After much scouring of the inter-webs I have come across information suggesting that cold rolled 316, 416T, and possibly cold rolled 304 stainless rod should have the same tensile strength as 1050 steel. I'm thinking I will upsize from 9/64ths to 3/16ths as it's easier to find and forgo the spoke nipples for doubled nuts. Anyone see any potential problems with this?
So, as I progress through my build I come across another question: Zinc Phosphate, or Epoxy primer on steel wing fittings?
The point is moot as I've ordered the epoxy primer already, but I'm curious to know how the two stack up against one another in an unexposed area like inside a wing.
Epoxy primer is an excellent moisture barrier.
Looking for input on attaching wooden truss ribs to spars. The Corben plans call for the ribs to be glued and nailed through the verticals into the face of the spars. Most other homebuilts I see use triangle blocks to capture the rib. My first question is, what does a proper rib installation look like using this method; I'm having a hard time finding reference pictures.
My remaining questions requires a little explanation.
On the suggestion of another builder, when assembling my ribs I held the vertical members of the rib back from the spar openings a few thou to allow them to slide onto the spars easier. When I actually got the spar stock it measured a few thou shy of 3/4" and it looks to me like way too much space now.
So, what I would like to know is, how much space between the spar and rib is "ok" as long as my compression struts are a snug fit. Do I need to glue in shims at the ribs to take up the space? Can these gaps be filled with T-88 and if so will I need a thickening agent?
Basically, I think I done mussed up. Just to put it out there, I do have a tech counselor I'll be talking to at the next chapter meeting, but I like to ask here first.
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