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I have just acquired a 100 gal trailer mounted steel fuel tank. I want to use it to bring and store MoGas to/at my private strip (45AR). The tank interior condition, however, is suspect. It has been used for aviation fuel in the past. That has been a number of years ago, however. The tank has set empty since last used. I want to clean it of rust and fuel residue before using it to refuel my L-16. Some good advice would be much appreciated. :confused:
Gerald
I don't know much about this, but would be very cautious. I'd go to the local airport and talk to the FBO as well as the fuel delivery man, Phillips or Texaco or whoever. Ask about cleaning and storing fuel and MOST OF ALL, about filtering and testing the fuel before putting it in the plane. I would not mention that it is autogas at first, or you may not get any comment, due to liablity issues.
I'd make very sure the plane has good fuel filters and check and clean them.
The best way to clean the fuel tank is to steam clean it. I work for a fuel company and we quite often have to do this to some of our tanks. It works well. After cleaning setup your tank and pump as follows and you should have no problems.
1 Be sure the suction pipe on your pump is 3 to 4 inches off the bottom of the tank, to prevent picking up debris which accumulates in all tanks over time.
2 Be sure to install a sediment bowl type fuel filter on your pump outlet to allow you to detect trash or water before the fuel goes into your aircaft. It should be rated at 5 to 10 microns.
3 Install a second spin on fuel filter after the first filter of the hydrasorb variety to catch any water that gets past the first filter. These filters slow to a trickle if they get any water in them. It should be rated at 5 to 10 microns.
4 Fashion a cap for your nozzle to prevent any dirt or bugs from getting into it when not in use. Bugs love to make nests in them and wind up in your fuel tank
5 Test each batch of fuel for alchohol even if your supplier swears it has none. It's your life not his, and you have no way to know what was last in his fuel truck or what was mixed in your fuel by mistake. Ever seen 10,000 gallons of kerosene and 10,000 gallons of gas mixed ?. I have. People do make mistakes. Check it..
6 Do not let this fuel sit for more than 60 days. It does not have the shelf life that Avgas does.
7 Change the filters regularly and drain some from the bowl on the first filter before each use.
Good luck.
All good points Vaflier.
Our RAA (Recreational Aircraft Association) Chapter President ordered a set of struts that had corrosion in them he used this process :Electrolytic Method of rust removal to eliminate the corrosion
http://www.ehow.com/way_5879387_elec...t-removal.html
The electrolyte can be made by combining about a tablespoon of washing soda per one gallon of water. A battery charger with wires can provide the current, as long as you make sure that the electrode (iron or steel that is disposable) is connected to the positive or red terminal, while the object being cleaned is attached to the negative end. He built a wooden box and lined it with plastic to hold the solution, and over night the steel from the electrode transfered to the strut and the rust was gone. He liberally applied linseed oil and old time corosion control.
Read more: Electrolytic Method of Rust Removal | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/way_5879387_elec...#ixzz1UDhwFiMe
Another reference for motorcycle fuel tank cleaning;
http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/moto..._tankrust.html
good luck.
[QUOTE=vaflier;1118]The best way to clean the fuel tank is to steam clean it. I work for a fuel company and we quite often have to do this to some of our tanks. It works well. After cleaning setup your tank and pump as follows and you should have no problems.
Thanks, vaflier. That really helps. Now to find someone who will steam clean it for me. That shouldn't be too difficult. What do you think about a dilute phosphoric acid wash and clear water rinse before loading any fuel? I have one filter cartridge (sediment) already installed, but will add the water stop filter and a cap to the nozzle as you suggest. The 60 day storage limit is a bit disappointing (but not a surprise). Would adding a bit of "Stable" be acceptable?
Gerald
An acid wash wash and water rinse would be fine. The phosphoric acid will chemically convert any rust and help to stop it. Just be sure to dry the tank as quickly as possible after cleaning to prevent promoting new rust. A good way to do this might be to hook a shop vac to one tapping in the tank and let it pull fresh air into the other openings to get some air movement into the tank. This will help evaporate any mousture. Just be sure that you do not have enough fumes in the tank to cause a problem with the shop vac. Stabil will definetly help the shelf life of the fuel but I am unsure about putting it into your aircraft. I would suggest using the fuel faster even if you have to put some in your car to help use it up. Or maybe you have a freind that can help use it with his aircraft.
In the antique automobile community it is not uncommon to find rust fuel tanks. If the corrosion is minor there are many wash/sealers available. I had a model A tank that was corroded after sitting empty for 30 years. I had to cut small holes, media blast the tank, then seal the tank after the repair. Daniel
I just remembered another technique I used once. Place a piece of chain in the tank and rotate for a while then seal.
Hi, what ever you do with the tank when you are cleaning and when you are finally using it be SURE every thing is grounded. When ever liquid is pumped that has any fuel residue, static electricity can accumulate. Then a spark can cause an explosion. Some fuel hoses have a ground cable built in but never depend on that. I owned a fuel equipment service company for many years and static electricity build up can hurt you. Also when you are towing the tank a static charge can build up, so always ground the system when you get home. Also add a vent cap to the tank that will keep out moisture. Good luck and be sure to check for alcohol.
Thanks for the suggestions, BBranin. I will be certain to incorporate grounding. Haven't located a steam cleaner yet. It's been too hot to do much serious wrestling with the tank, but cooler days are coming. I think I'm going to steer clear of the tank washes/sealers. I've used them on motorcycle and small engine tanks, but they have a bad reputation with pilots - too many horror stories about their eventually flaking off and clogging fuel lines/filters. Wish I had muscle enough to do the "chain" treatment, but a 100 gallon, pressure rated, steel tank is quite a bit out of my range. :rollseyes: Think I'll stick with a pressure washing, steam cleaning, phosphoric acid wash, clear water rinse, drain, shop vac dry, and sun bake treatment. Then add trash/sediment & water trap filters and a cap to the dispenser nozzle and a ground wire with spring clip (also a wire that drags the ground).
Thanks to everyone for all your thoughtful advise.
Just another comment on the subject, be careful of your state regulations about transporting large quantities of fuel.
I think there are quite a few restrictions and permit/license requirements in some states and if you get caught the fines are huge and I think the charges would be for a federal offense and could involve jail time.
Just check out your states & federal rules on transporting fuel thoroughly to be safe.
Our glider club is struggling with these issues currently as we can not get under 1000 gals of fuels delivered at the moment, we dont have that big a tank, so we have resorted to using a pickup truck with its bed mounted aux fuel tank to transport 100 gals at a time to refill our 300 gal trailor that we can not legally take to get filled due to restrictions etc.
If ever stopped we can argue that the Aux fuel tank is part of the trucks fuel supply system and avoid all the red tape of permits, licenses etc.