That's pretty much what I'm going to do.
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That's pretty much what I'm going to do.
One less thing to do, one more to add to the list.
First off, the gun is done! I had made a mess of the plastic gun kit I bought and rather than just mess around with it making it even more ugly, I decided to use it as a template and make another out of wood:
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/lew002.jpg
Yep, that's a half inch board with some big dowels I ripped with my circular saw, some epoxy, some drywall spackle, and some sanding.
On the other side I used a bit of copper tubing after figuring out it's easier than molding that bit out of epoxy putty.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/lew001.jpg
Oh, and the top bit there is some left over plastic cutting board I used as reinforcement for the turtle deck stringer.
I recycled the magazine and the barrel end from the kit.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/lew003.jpg
The handle and the grips were pretty easy to do - it's just some scrap and a dowel that I didn't really clean up - I just lacquered over them as they were, with little imperfections and stuff on them.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/lew004.jpg
So that's done.
Now I have to put some steel on my firewall to make it a firewall.
The other thing I've been working on is the windscreen. What I want is something that looks Nieuport-ish without the metal frame around it.
Here's the second mock-up with cardboard, as the first with poster board wasn't robust enough to stand up:
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/wind001.jpg
That's not quite in the right spot, but getting it to stand up was a huge challenge until I figured out a small paint can behind it worked out great.
So it's off to the aviation section of Lowe's for some thickish plexiglass - I think it's quarter inch, along with a tool for cutting it.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/wind002.jpg
This works great for straight lines, but what about curves?
The cutting tool is really just a razor with a little knob on it and a really sharp point. Sucker can really make the red stuff flow. One just scrapes a groove into the plastic until it's about halfway through and snaps it apart on the line.
I don't know if I violated some sort of rule about cutting plexiglass, but I wound up using my jigsaw, running the blade slow enough that it didn't melt the plastic.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/wind003.jpg
My windscreen professionally fitted.
My plan is to use angles to hold the three pieces together and reinforce with superglue and silicone stuff.
I used a super technical technique for measuring the angle I need for them.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/wind004.jpg
I TLAR'd the first one and then got busy replicating it from a bit of steel I had.
B is for Bend, C is for cut. I make no apologies for idiot labeling my stuff even if it's done in one motion.
I found it easier to bend the piece, then cut it off, then bend, then cut...
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/wind005.jpg
A little work on the sanding belt and they came out pretty good.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/wind006.jpg
Now to put holes in them and mount the pieces together. And then fit it to the aircraft.
WOW... That Gun looks VERY GOOD !!!!
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The Firewall was brought up before...
Mine is SS...
They say a Galvanized steel works... But I've welded and torched on Galv...
I've heard the fumes that come off of it are VERY POISONOUS...
I'll stick with Stainless Steel...
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Gotta Fly...
JAM
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Hmmm Can't find the Gun Picture...
I was going to send the picture to "Paint"....
add some dark spots on the barrel area as a suggestion for your Mock Machine Gun realism...
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Gotta Fly...
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had to reset the server - it lost its web instance - so pictures show now.
My plan for aging the gun is to kind of lay it about and move it as needed to get to tools and junk.
Get the wife involved ??? Or the KId ???
Hey Frank... I took the picture to "Paint".... added some color to the barrel area to give you the idea I was thinking about for
some realistic looking detail.... I just did a little , you'll have to picture the whole barrel done...
Maybe simple gloss Black would work ? Maybe Black Duct Tape ???Attachment 4903
Attachment 4904
See what you think...
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Gotta Fly...
Looks good; the early Lewis guns had a solid cooling shroud, though.
Later they realized that the airflow over the gun on an aircraft meant that it wasn't needed, and they just took them off.
Yeah... Come to think of it... I only remember seeing the ones without the shroud... ( Se 5 ? )
OK... Sorry... I was confused with something else.. I thought the holes weren't done in the mock gun because of Drag...
I figured the dark spots would get around that.... Sort of Tickle the eye illusion...
Gotta Fly...
It's all pretty interesting - there was a whole lot of TLAR going on in 1915. They simply tagged on a standard Infantry Lewis gun onto the top wing, putting fixtures on the sides of the box at the front of the top center wing, and then another towards the rear. They put a turnbuckle on the rear support for adjusting elevation.
Indeed, the first ones relied on the pilot reaching up and pulling the trigger, and had the smaller 26 round magazine! In short order they got a cable attached to the stick and the larger 46 magazine, and then they figured they could just get rid of the cooling shroud. The shroud itself is a solid tube with a lot of baffles inside that touch the barrel, acting as cooling fins.
Well , there ya go...
We don't just build planes and fly...
We learn History while we're at it...
Thanks,
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Gotta Fly...
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Early flight really interests me, as it's where the real engineering moxie of the guys back then came to the fore. We tend to think of them as simpler times, but in reality it was much more complex than today, owing to new technologies being leveraged against those that already existed. Airplanes were the ultimate in interdisciplinary arts - everything from cabinet making to metallurgy had to be known and used in both design and manufacture. Make it light, make it strong, and make it as inexpensively as possible - using only materials commonly available.
There was a lot of research on flight prior to the Wright Brother's figuring out how to truly control flight and Curtiss' development of the aileron, so the engineers of the day had a wealth of knowledge to work from, and as engines got better they could apply that to everything behind it. Rotating engines solved a lot of problems on the weight-to-power issue, but brought with it the gyroscopic problem; the solution was a free-flying rudder that, unlike the Wright Flyers, was unlinked from the bank controls (allowing the pilot to slip the aircraft). The early Nieuports sported both positive (lower wings) and negative (upper wings) dihedral to help it stay stable; they did this because they also made them short as they could to give them maneuverability.
They knew that biplanes were aerodynamically inefficient. But they also knew that using a box kite design gave the strength to the materials at hand far greater than the sum of the parts, so that's the format they used. From there they tweaked designs and materials as they went along, from streamlined wires to no wires at all (as in the Fokker DR1, which only got interplane struts at the insistence of the German war ministry). They worked with different airfoils, getting the best trade-offs between speed and lift.
But it's that interdisciplinary thinking that really appeals to me. They drew from every skill set in different industries and applied them to aircraft design and manufacturing, much as we homebuilders do.
Getting back to the work at hand, as I mentioned I suck at putting down a nice smooth bead of silicone sealant/adhesive.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/wind007.jpg
It occurred to me that while I've opted out of having an aluminum frame around the windscreen (as in the original), I can pay a bit of homage to that with a couple of little strips over that seam.
So I used my standard "take a piece of scrap and bend it until it looks okay" method of measurement and bent a bit of aluminum.
I didn't take pictures (I didn't know if it would work), but I found that bending a larger sheet to the correct angle and then trimming it thin on a paper cutter worked really well.
I also painted the strips using the same metallic paint as the metal joiney bits and then applied silicone stuff behind them.
To mount the windscreen to the aircraft, I made little mount brackets the same way I made the ones that hold the sides to the front, with a big rivet onto the fuselage and bolts through the wind screen. There's two in the front and two in the sides.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/wind008.jpg
The scheme makes it a lot stronger than I thought it would. As the front is pushed back, the load is transferred along the sides, and there's a lot of surface area to take that stress. I grabbed the top of the center section and pulled back as hard as I could and it didn't budge.
Now, then, the upper edge of the windscreen which I had cut out with a jigsaw is great. It's smooth and flowing and there isn't a hitch on it, as I wasn't worried too much about it and just cut it with one motion.
The lower edge, where it meets the aircraft, however, is an entirely different matter. It's close and I've tweaked it on the band sander, but I didn't get the curve just right.
I could spend endless hours trimming here and there hoping for the perfect curve and the perfect beveled edge, but that's a pipe dream. Long experience tells me what I'd wind up doing it "improving" it right into the scrap bin.
What I need is something to cheat that edge, make it smooth, and keep air from travelling underneath it. I had good results using car door trim stuff on the seat for both appearance and smoothing, so I decided to go with that.
And immediately ran into a problem. The edge material is a square groove with a rounded tip of plastic/rubber material to make it rounded at the end, about 3/8" below the bottom of the square channel. Too much! And my windscreen is wider than the car door edge it was designed to go over, meaning I really had to abuse it to make it fit.
So I slapped in the remaining part of the steel I used to make the windshield mounts and put the belt sander to use.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/wind009.jpg
I brought down the bottom to where I could just see the steel underneath.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/wind010.jpg
Now it's about an eighth of an inch thick and flat on the bottom.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/wind011.jpg
Test fitted it on the windscreen and mounted.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/wind013.jpg
Since I wasn't sure this would work I cut it at the seam between pieces. I'll have to do it again, trimming down the sides at that join to make it one continuous seal, as well as hitting it with some steel wool to take the chrome appearance off of it.
Here's how it looks all done:
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/wind014.jpg
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/wind015.jpg
I also found a new term: unforseen craftsmanship.
My wife was looking at the windscreen and said "one of your screws is off."
Now, I was about to go into the necessity of drilling some of the holes a little off center of the brackets in order to counter act the Coriolis effect and sunspots (always a ready explanation of my inability to center a hole on a piece of metal), when she continued,
"That one isn't going up and down."
Huh?
Well, out of 20 machine screws on the wind screen, 19 of them wound up with the screw driver slot vertical. The 20th was off by about 30 degrees.
"Um, well one of them has to be a little different from the rest in order to ensure the stresses on the installation don't loosen them all."
She almost bought it! Then she scoffs and says "you had no idea you did that!"
Nope.
Frank, There are over 300 philips screws in my L-21 Super Cub. All of the crosses line up as well as all the bolt heads. I think I'm mentally ill or have a bad case of ADD. Keep up the good work. The finish line is getting closer. Don
That's actually pretty neat - but I'm not nearly that way. Heck, I'm happy when I can rivet in a straight line for more than four inches.
My FWF from Valley Engineering came with everything but the mounting bolts, so first order of business was finding out what size (3/8ths an inch) and how much I needed to back off from the Diehl case to clear it and the bolts from it.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/eng001a.jpg
I found an inch and a half or so back would do the trick. I'm not a big fan of extending the engine forward, as I have no idea what CG problems I'd be giving myself later on.
I'll wind up cutting the firewall and making a doghouse for the starter on the inside, which I have no problem with doing.
But I can't just have a grade 8 bolt out there all naked for that inch and a half, which means I'll need a bushing around it to beef it up.
The single bushing in 3/8ths an inch isn't beefy enough, so I'll nest three together:
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/eng002.jpg
There's a little lip inside each one to help it grab onto the next.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/eng003.jpg
A couple whacks with a hammer (using a wood block to keep from damaging them), and we get a nice, solid bushing that's going to keep our bolt from bending.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/eng004.jpg
Here's how it looks with the mount in place.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/eng005.jpg
Now it's just a matter of doing that three more times, make a template for the bolt holes for the engine, and then mark the mount (after I clean it up) for center of the firewall, put the template on it, and drill.
So I measured bolt hole to bolt hole and came up with 11" between them vertically.
But is that right? It would really stink to be off because I suck with a tape measure.
So I came up with the idea to drill a yard stick and see if the bolts lined up through them:
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/eng006.jpg
Sun's going down, so I'll wait until tomorrow to confirm horizontal distance. I don't trust to simply drill the center of the mount - best to be sure.
I'll most likely super glue some supports across and use it as a template for holes at any rate.
Oh, and note that on the stick to the left in the picture I had a problem adding eleven and came up with twelve...hence the "NO" to the "practice hole."
:rollseyes:
Time to man up and drill some holes.
Or, rather, take a minute and measure closely on the mount and confirm some stuff.
First, I confirmed that the center of the Diehl kit is in fact the center of the crankshaft, which is the center of the prop. Simply a matter of putting a ruler on both ends of the engine.
Second, I leveled the mount while it is on the aircraft - meaning I leveled the aircraft. Easy enough.
Now, then, the center of my firewall was easy to find - I just ran a line from longeron to longeron; where they cross is the center, and more importantly the line of thrust.
I ran a level across the mount at the center:
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/eng007.jpg
Now it was just a matter of going up and down 5 1/2 inches from my center line, and running the level across again to make a line. Then I did the same for the horizontal distance.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/eng008.jpg
Deep breath and on to the drill press.
From there it was back to the engine with the mount to confirm fit. Hurray!
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/eng009.jpg
A few notes - it wasn't entirely smooth sailing. Those rubber stopper thingies have a bushing inside them, and they like to be straight and center. There's a lot going on with those bolts - washers and bushings and stuff - so those vibration stoppers were fighting all the while.
I finally figured out that lining up and starting the lower two* first, then seating the upper ones and then tightening in an X (starting from the top right) everything started to sing.
* The lower two bolts were a PITA. The case to the engine does a little cut in and down, which doesn't give a lot of room. That's why there's a bushing on the back side of the mount. Turns out I measured correctly, and the bolts snug up just fine in the space allowed.
Hell, I'm starting to think it may be easier to put the engine on the aircraft as an assembly - with the mount attached - than it will be to undo the bolts, put the mount on the aircraft, then play the "line up the bolts in the holes" game I just went through.
Frank, I'm very interested in Airdrome Aeroplanes and I stumbled across this thread.
Thanks a a million for posting all your adventures in construction.
The Hun will have much to fear!
Cheers
Aw, shucks. :cool:
At any rate, this is an example of an Airdrome Airplane being built by the most ignorant of first time builders. When they say one can be built using normal hand tools (and a few non-exotic power ones like an electric belt sander, a small cheap drill press, a little air compressor for the rivet gun) in the space of a small car garage, they ain't kidding.
Most folks take the basic plans and modify them, making them look more like actual WWI aircraft or changing things up to suit their preference and turned them into award winners. I haven't done any of that - mine's about as "stock" to the plans as one can get.
My plane won't win any awards - but that was never my goal.
I only hope she can fly straight and well.
After some consultation with other builders, putting the engine on as an assembly with the mount attached to it is technique I'm going to use.
The starter is going to poke through the firewall, so all sorts of misadventures were at hand. I had thought to mount it with the selenoid on top, as it looks cleaner to me and kept the footprint of the engine. So I made this great template of cardboard that used the holes on the mount and told me exactly where to make the hole. Then I checked it against the firewall, and the cross brace for the fuselage intersects. Since that's Station One (or is it zero?), starting and setting the square for the front of the fuselage, there's no monkeying around with that tube.
So the selenoid has to go on bottom, which meant a new template. And confirming its measurements. The hole is cut - if I did everything right after I mount the engine the starter should go through it nicely and the bolts in without fuss. Oh, I'm leaving it off while mounting the engine; since it stands past the mount, playing Keep The Starter In The Hole And Don't Bang It Around seems like a funny story I'd rather not share later on.
Tomorrow's weather looks amiable - no rain (we don't mention that at 8 a.m. it's to be 78 degrees with 90% humidity and then thankfully gets warmer so I don't have to be bothered with the nuisance of mittens or a thick coat), so I plan on mounting the engine.
First, though, the engine had to come out of the crate and onto a dolly for transport into the back yard.
Now, then, in the crate the engine sits on a wooden cradle and is held in place with some retaining straps that are screwed into the floor of the crate. My plan was to lift the engine off of the cradle with my shop crane, pull it up, and place it on the dolly.
Except the cradle sits on a bit of plywood that is set on the floor of the crate. The cradle is screwed onto this, and the plywood is screwed down with lots and lots of wood screws.
So lower the engine back down and get to work with a drill and bit to take them all out.
Then lift the engine, put the cradle and the board on the dolly, move the crate out of the way, and then lower the engine back onto the cradle.
The last bit was sort of adventurous, as my ropes weren't quite evenly tight and there was some stretch, giving the prime mover a decided tilt to one side.
But she's ready for transport and mounting!
I have to say that mounting the engine was pretty anti-climatic.
Not to say there wasn't the usual drama. It started when I pushed the dolly out of the garage and onto the driveway. Things went katywhompus and in very, very slow motion the engine slid off of the mount. I had a scrap bit of plywood handy and slipped it under where one of the exhaust pipes was about to hit the pavement.
So take the shop crane and lift it up, take the mount off the base piece of particle board, put the mount directly on the dolly, and lower the engine back down.
Then it was just a matter of using some of the sides of the shipping crate to slowly - really creeping - to the back yard:
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/eng010.jpg
No, the camera's not tilted - that's the slope of my back yard. Note my Bebe pulled out and the cinder block chalks to keep it from rolling down into the fence.
So it was move it forward from one piece to another, taking into account the slope of the yard and the right hand turn I had to make. I used one of the plywood sheets for a ramp onto the concrete and it worked really well.
The airplane's out from under the tent because it's slightly longer than the concrete patio slab I've "entented" as a work shop. I needed the shop crane, engine, and aircraft nose all over that concrete, so I had to pull the plane out, turn it around, and put it back in.
My front "wall" tarp pretty much fell apart when I removed it - more on that later.
So with the plane reversed and my nifty one hundred dollar Harbor Freight shop crane (gotta love those sales and coupons), it was time to lift the tail of the aircraft, put a couple ropes on the engine, and lift it.
Go figure that I just winged the ropes and it lifted level - had I of measured anything it probably would have taken a couple hours.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/eng011.jpg
Note the cheap folding table, the recycle bin, bit of plywood, and block of foam hold up the tail!
The tricky thing of the bolts that come out of the longerons is that the bottom ones are actually tilted upwards. So while the engine mount was vertical, I put a little back angle on the firewall...and the bolts slipped right through the holes.
Then I lifted the tail a bit to make it vertical and the top bolts slipped in.
Couple washers and some bolts and done. No muss, no fuss, on in about fifteen minutes. I was pretty shocked.
My behind-the-mount-bushings for the lower engine mount bolts cleared the firewall just fine.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/eng012.jpg
A few extra notes - my hole for the starter looks dead on. I'll put it on tomorrow to make sure.
Note the extra bit of sheeting on the firewall. That's some light steel for insurance I put over the aluminum. It's a little more weight but I think it's worth it in piece of mind.
My wife wasn't surprised at all that the engine just slid onto the bolts without issue - I had done all the hard work up front so that mounting it shouldn't have been a problem. I guess she was right.
I also took the front wall tarp and draped it over the engine to keep the weather off of it. It's time to replace all the tarps, as I'm at the point of water resistance instead of water proofing.
Another "Milestone"... Looks nice Frank !
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Gotta Fly...
JAM
Something to make real airplane noises with!
Let's build a box out of a sheet of steel!
Note that while I made a sort of plan in PowerPoint it needed some scribbles on it to make it work.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/box001.jpg
Looks like my measurements and bends worked out okay. Time to make some reinforcing tabs for the side and paint it.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/box002.jpg
Mount the starter...
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/box003.jpg
And mount the box with some metal screws into some nut fittings.
After priming it I hit it with a can of gold paint I had on the shelf. The reason for making it a gold box? Because GOLD BOX, that's why!
:)
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/box004.jpg
And now a problem. I couldn't see this while mucking about with the engine in the crate, but now that it's mounted the starter shaft seems to be too short, and the teeth don't mesh with the fly wheel.
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/eng013.jpg
The starter is mounted correctly - flush with the case - so I think there was supposed to be some sort of mod done to it in Missouri that didn't happen.
I shot an email to Valley Engineering, as I spotted this after they had closed for the day. I'll follow up with a phone call tomorrow.
Okay, so I'm a bit dense - the starter gear should be retracted, as it moves forward and turns when engaged.
So yet another "sorry, I'm stupid, please ignore me" email will be sent to Valley Engineering.
I've done that a time or two. It's always after you've sent the email to the company that you realize you're a dummy. Don
Did you wire that beauty before you put it in the "Gold box"?
No, no electrical work has been done.
In fact, one can easily reach the connection from the engine side, and the box is in place by metal screws and can be easily removed.
and make sure the electrics stay far away from that firewall, once the engine starts jumping around ...
fireworks due to the firewall cutting the isolation is not something you want (I guess)
well, you 're almost there, good job
Today was an EAA day for me.
Loads of folks like to talk about the Headquarters and Oshkosh and SportAviation and damned ol' "Mac" McMillian and how the organization is circling the toilet bowl, but it's never been that for me. I really don't care if they have Taco Tuesday on Friday and recite FAA 14 CFR Part 91 as a Gregorian Chant up there in Wisconsin or wherever, as I'm down here in Alabama.
Today I spent more than three hours with "Rusty" Hood from our EAA Chapter in his hangar/workshop while he showed both his complete mastery of aircraft systems and command of small words (so I could understand). I drove up befuddled about how to make both my fuel and electrical systems. I left with diagrams I understand, a list of things to buy, and a sense of relief.
I did mention we're in Alabama, didn't I? And it's a big ol' un-air conditioned hangar with the door open and a big fan. With a heat index of 105 degrees.
Want to know what the EAA is? That's what the EAA is.
A couple of questions I'll throw out because the web isn't being helpful.
1) The black regulator box that hooks to the Diehl case has three wires. The "pluggie thing" that's obviously connected to the pluggie thing from the case.
2) A short black wire that has kind of a star cutout around the inside of the connector, and
3) A long black wire that has a smooth round connector.
Neither is labelled and I'm scratching my head as to which one is the hot and which is the ground.
Second question:
My VW is electrical ignition. Where do I hook up the tach at?
For those scratching their heads and wondering what I'm writing about....
The regulator/adapter from the Diehl case is this black oval dealie:
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/wire001.jpg
Note there are no labels - just the adapter that hooks into the Diehl alternator, a short wire and a long wire. One has to be hot and the other ground, as clearly the power is coming into the box from the connector to it, and it is supposed to give power back to the battery.
Onto the tach. Since the only connection coming off of the alternator is the plug connection, it doesn't go there.
Here's a pic of the dual coils on the engine:
http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/wire002.jpg
In a standard coil and distributor cap, one would just plug the tach into the hot post on the single coil (as the VDO instructions say). The next guess would be the Number One connection....but which is that?
I'm probably going to call Valley tomorrow and see if they can illuminate me on this.
Strictly a wild guess, but I'd say the short wire is the ground since there'd probably be a lot of things nearby to connect it to wherever it gets mounted in the aircraft, and the fact that the terminal end has the teeth, which would cut through paint and primer to establish a good connection to the structure when attached to a ground stud. No need for that on the hot wire that is being connected to other wiring instead of terminating at the structure.
Don't trust me though...
That's what I suspect as well - but at 90 bucks for a replacement if I let the smoke out, I need an expert to be sure.
The short one is "probably" the ground connection
The long one is "probably" the "hot" (battery) connection
The gray connector has two wires, one is "probably" the connection after the "generator switch"
But if I see well enough there are 5 wires coming out of that regulator ....
And there are a lot of "probabilities",
Checking with the supplier wil remove the stress that comes with swithing on the MASTER for the first time, (where is that gray smoke coming from...)
have fun
johan
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanneel
The long lead sure DOESN'T go to the Battery....
It's a Heat sink.... It goes to something that's CHARGING too much.... It's getting rid of the charge with HEAT...( See the Fins )
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Maybe BOTH black wires are GROUNDS...Engine and Airframe...
Gotta Fly...
JAM
And the answer is.....the short goes to the ground side of the battery, the long to the hot.
Planecrazzy, I didn't give you enough context - this is the voltage regulator that comes off the generator on the back of the engine. So it's got to go to the battery. That's what threw me - they can't both be grounds, or there wouldn't be a point to having an alternator.
Why for pete's sake they don't color code or label something like this is beyond me.
using one color and one size is cheaper (Made in xxxxx)
Yeah the Colors would be ok if they marked it with Red Electric tape at the End by the terminal...Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Giger
I figured it was getting the "Hot" from the Plug...
OK it's a regulator.... But it is still scrubbing juice with heat from those fins....
Kind of two in one...
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Thanks for clearing that up... It was making quite a stir !
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Gotta Fly...
JAM
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PS I hope "YOU" mark the wires with Elec marking tape...
By the way... The way I marked a lot of wires on my first plane...
TYPE what you need on the computer... Print it... Cut it out and wrap it around the wire tightly... and Clear tape...
Seem to work on more than just wires... Especially with color ink