Building a Fokker D VII

[Fokker Builder]

Hi Guys and Gals,

I realized that although I am keeping a build log on FaceBook and on The Aerodrome websites, I am a member of this association and should be keeping a build log here to share the journey with you all. With that I have some catching up to do. First off I had to build the Flugzeugwerke.

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I started making tooling, build work tables, and buy an engine (yes that is an old Ford 300 inline straight 6) whih is the epitome of a bullet proof engine. The lathe is an 80 year old Clausing 100 series. I haven't used a lathe since I made dad a center punch in 8th grade shop. Purchased a welder, band saw, seconds in angle grinders and screw guns. Even bought a couple rivet guns since I was originally build all flight surfaces in in AL tubing. I built the tail surfaces in tube and rivet only to realize that I didn't trust a 2000lb plane with a 9 foot propeller giving 1000lbs of thrust to tubes and rivets. I am per Replicraft plans building this plane as a replica.

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Here are some of the parts I have built since September.

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Engine bearer brackets

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Axle blocks

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Coweling nuts (Fokker Nuts)

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Sheet Metal brake

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Ball Forks

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Aileron Pulley Assemblies

I have boxes with all my control surface hinges, wire tabs, aileron control cable pulleys and bracketry. Last week I received my order of streamline tubing from Aircraft Spruce and I have an order with Parker Steel in Ohio for most of the metric tubing for the fuselage, associated parts, and the 2 1/8" dia 3/16" wall tubing for my axle. I will post more to bring you guys up to date.

Thanks for reading
Jim

[Fokker Builder]

1/27/17, Cool stuff going on. I can tell you to measure twice, then measure two more times. I made the plywood welding fixture yesterday. As you can tell I made the fixture to do both the right and left side undercarriage sections. Today i forged the tines of the ball forks, then fitted one of them to and welded it into one of the streamlined legs.
Rather than move on to the next ball fork I couldn't help but start fitting the leg to the axle box. Take your time here guys and gals if you don't want to waste some expensive tubing. This is a complex cut on multiple planes and angles. I am proud not to have rushed as my fit was excellent hence I tacked it. I had to be careful as I have two sticks of this dimension tubing with only 10" extra per stick.
Tomorrow I will weld a ball fork to the other leg and finish welding this being the left side assembly.

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Engine cart I made mocking up the forward Fokker fuselage in HD plumbing pipe. Very strong

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Spruce gap fillers

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Hinges and engine bearer brackets

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Seat belt hardware

So you saw current work from the last day or so and some more catching up of parts already made.

Peace
Jim

[Fokker Builder]

Catching up some more

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Tabs and clips

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Axle box bending fixture

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My new still wrapped Jacobs hub

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Engineering model in CAD as I was going to do all AL originally

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I made some N strut cups on the lathe purdy huh

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Throttle with hand made vrass rivets

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My task master

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This is the recreation I am going for of Aloys Heldmann

Peace
Jim

[rwanttaja]

Neat project. You mentioned Aerodrome at the beginning, but this is a scratch-build project, correct?

Also, what engine is that?




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My task master

Wrong war. :-)

Ron Wanttaja

[Fokker Builder]

Ron,

Here is a link to http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/ it is not Robert Baslees company. There are many builders, enthusiasts, and modelers including resources, litterature, and research into the Great War, pilots, and aeroplanes.

The engine I am using is a Ford 300 IL 6 from 1979. This engine is the epitome of bullet proof. It has been used in dump trucks, UPS trucks, ramp vehicles, automobiles and small trucks for over 30 years. It was designed to operate between 3000 and 4000 RPM all day and do it for decades. 165 to 185 hp yeild with 367 tq. I am putting a 1-1.97 PSRU as well as a 4 barrel intake with a Holley carburator. Should wind up with about 190 to 200 hp and 900 tq at the prop. Looking to run between 104 to 110" propeller with a 9" cord.

Thanks
Jim

[Fokker Builder]

Hi guys and gals,


2/5/17, Wow, this is cool. Big pieces of the plane. Both right and left side of the basic undercarriage legs. I do have to bend some 2 mm 4130 for the two U shaped clips that get welded in for the bracing wires and this week I will make templates and cut 1 mm 4130 for the bungee cord assemblies that weld on each side of the axle blocks. The actual bungee tubes should arrive in 3 weeks.


The welding went flawlessly. There was hardly any movement in the position of the ball forks in the jig. They didn't even move the entire 3/16" I allowed for. Thanks Jeff, best to be safe and sage advice.:cool:


D VII
:work:

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[rwanttaja]

The welding went flawlessly. There was hardly any movement in the position of the ball forks in the jig. They didn't even move the entire 3/16" I allowed for.

You probably said (but I couldn't read it through the drool on the screen), but: What kind of welding are you doing? TIG? Looked at what might have been a TIG torch in one of the shots.

When/how did you learn to weld? I'm retiring this month, and have been considering welding classes at the local community college.

Ron Wanttaja

[Fokker Builder]

Ron,

TIG is the bomb for beginner welders. MIG you have to work too fast with flux core, even with gas and wire I just feel rushed. Took a couple classes but really just started building custom motorcycles years ago. I have a $400 TIG machine with no foot peddle. Just have to play with amperage based on the metal you are welding. No AL with this machine though but hey, I am building a 100 year old plane. Here are some more pics.

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Finished engine cart mocking up Fokker engine compartment. I will be making new engine mounts this week as have to drop the thrust line.

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Axle block front and back covers plus the bending jig

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I hear that big guy making hinges has lost 20 lbs in the last month

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Better shot of the octogenarian in the shop

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Make one of these, must have

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Had to create more accessible tool storage

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Made a few bending tools for the Harbor Freight press. Change out the whimpy legs that are supplied and install 4 X 4 1/2" legs so you don't have to bolt it down

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Tiggy set up, SB starting

Enough for tonight
Jim

[falcon21]

TIG is the bomb for beginner welders. MIG you have to work too fast with flux core, even with gas and wire I just feel rushed. Took a couple classes but really just started building custom motorcycles years ago. I have a $400 TIG machine with no foot peddle. Just have to play with amperage based on the metal you are welding. No AL with this machine though but hey, I am building a 100 year old plane. Here are some more pics.


Interesting, I find MIG relatively easy and TIG to be harder. In high school we only had two TIG welders though so it was hard to get some decent time on one to get good at it. We also did oxy-acetylene welding, that was fun.

[lathropdad]

I am a self tough welder. I started with gas and practiced welding aluminum with oxy-acetylene. I did it just because it was hard but there were several guys in town that did it all the time to help me. When I started TIG welding, I found it easier and I attribute that to the similar visual clues between gas welding aluminum and TIG. For things like fuel tanks, I think it is the best welding method for the long sheet metal joints.

In the first years I was doing race car work, we could built cars with aluminum fuel tanks. I gas welded all those tanks. I did use TIG when I installed bosses.

[Fokker Builder]

Hi everyone,

2/13/17, Anybody know what the first pic is?

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My shipment of what should be all my metric 4130 carbon steel tubing to build the fuselage and sundry parts came today. Yep, I was out on the lathe and a tractor trailer showed up early with a 24' long, 550 lb crate. http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif You can't see them as there are a bunch of 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2", oops 6, 8, and 10mm tubing on the second rack. First rack has the larger tubes and my 2 1/8" X 3/16" wall axle is on the third rack with what is left of the streamline tubing. Man I can't wait to kick Lori out of the garage, build my third work table and lay out the blocking and fuselage sides.

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Rubbing my hands together like a greedy kid with a bowl of ice cream

Jim

[Fokker Builder]

2/19/17, The last weeks work. I made all the threaded weld ins for the N strut ends and cabanes. I also made the threaded ball screws. I fabricated the parts for the bungee boxes for the axle blocks but wasn't happy with an unstable arc on my TIG welder. Going to open up the manual and see what deferred maintenance needs to be performed. Oh yea, those bungee tubes have a 28 mm tube inside a 30 mm tube. The 29 pokes through the back cover and gets welded there. The 30 mm tube gets welded to the front and back cover. I was going to button weld the 30 to the 28 but at this point I think that will be redundant as I had to press the two tubes together.

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I have to get an oxy/cet torch so I can do the bending on the threaded bungs.




What a beautiful weekends weather to be out on the lathe this past weekend. I love 70's for working.




Jim

[Fokker Builder]

Think about switching from TIG to gas welding. Going to a friends house for an introduction tomorrow. I take it I can't use the ER70S rod for gas. Any hints from you guys?

Jim

[Sam Buchanan]

Think about switching from TIG to gas welding. Going to a friends house for an introduction tomorrow. I take it I can't use the ER70S rod for gas. Any hints from you guys?

Jim

I used ER70S when gas welding the fuse for my Legal Eagle XL, it is recommended (http://www.tinmantech.com/products/welding/flux-filler-metals/4130-Steel-filler.php#2)by the TinMan guys (http://www.tinmantech.com/). You might consider renting their DVDs (http://www.tinmantech.com/products/dvds/welding-videos/4130-chromemoly-airframe-construction.php) on gas welding.

[Fokker Builder]

Thanks Sam

[Fokker Builder]

3/4/17, There is a field trip planned for today. I am taking my father in law to visit the Culpeper Neiuport team that are building an Aerodrome Aeroplanes Newp 28 as a 3 man effort. I was there last Fall but they have made considerable progress. I especially want to inspect the wheel hubs and get the skinny on which tail wheel they are using. When we get back I will put the tops on the new 3' wide work table.

Tomorrow is the day I formally start the plane build. Until now the plane had an early start with an incomplete flugzeugwerke. The full work space with all three work tables end to end will finally be set up. I will be narrowing the other 2 work tables from 4' to 3' as well. Lessons were learned that mobility is a commodity in a tool full 13' wide work space and tables that are 4' wide. The fuse is only 28" wide and I as well as others need to be able to move freely through the garage.

This next week I will draw out the fuselage side assembly on the work table. Man, this is getting cool.

Jim

Below is a picture of Brian Coughlin's D VII frame that Jeff Brooks bought and of what will be produced over the ensuing month or so.

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[Fokker Builder]

By the way, set up all 3 work tables and rearranged the shop over the weekend. Fokker paper today and drew out the fuselage halves and started cutting tubing. I have to weld up all the Fokker clamps for the left side and then I can start tacking up the fuse. Pics later this week when everything is tacked up.

http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/images/smilies/work.gif
Jim

[Fokker Builder]

3/7/17, Rainy day so I blew off working on the truck and mocked up the pilots left side fuselage half. All the tubes are notched and fit for welding. Tomorrow I am going to jam on the truck but my 00 and 0 Victor welding tips came in. I think I will squeeze in some welding time.

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Jim


https://www.facebook.com/images/emoji.php/v7/f4c/1/16/1f642.png:)

[Fokker Builder]

Hi guys and gals,

3/19/17, I was working on the second fuselage side today and and at the end of the day started working on jigging them both upright. I had family here from Texas for three days and then it was just plain cold. Mom isn't doing so well so not sure when I will be back on plane. We build when we can right?

Jim

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[Fokker Builder]

3/22/17, Back on plane today. Finished some welding and then started the jigging process.The fuselage starts to narrow right behind the cockpit so I think I am going to line up the front half parallel and weld all those cross tubes in before I start the narrowing process. I started with a center line, then found the center of the upper (plane is upside down at this point) longerons and then just started squaring everything up. I will finish locking down the front half tomorrow and start cutting cross tubes.

Jim

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[Fokker Builder]

Well I know I shouldn't but I feel like an ass-umer. I have had problems with my TIG welder and as such decided to switch to gas welding. I did all my trouble shooting of the TIG process except check the bottle of argon. Today was the final check by returning the gas and asking for an uncontaminated bottle. Turns out I had erroneously been given an an argon blend. Hooked it back up this afternoon and wouldn't you know I wasted 3 weeks with no TIG welder because of being given an argon blend instead of pure argon. At least i didn't ship the welder off to tech for service.


I do believe if something is learned then failure is not a complete waste. Man with all the welding experience I have I shouldn't have trusted that guy or at least it should have been the first thing I checked.
:blush:


Jim

[Fokker Builder]

3/24/17, I rocked this today. Got 7 cross tubes notched and tacked in today. Off to an EAA meeting tomorrow and then back to hard weld as much of the new tubes as I can reach. Get the rest when I flip it over end of the week. Sunday I will start jigging up so I can start pulling the longerons in as I head toward the tail. Pictures Sunday night.




Jim

[Fokker Builder]

3/26/17, Last few days work. I have the front 16 cross tubes tacked and welded in on what will be the underside of the fuselage. These will get welded on the upper side when the fuselage gets turned over.




You can see some of the jigging of the fixture in these two pictures. That was actually a process that started with a few 8' 2 X 4 uprights and then transitioned into just tabletop lock-downs. As a bay would get tacked, a square was screwed in locking in the upper and lower longerons. Then the lower lock-down was moved after and raised and narrowed as the longerons past the the cockpit. If you look closely in the first pic you can see how the longerons are coming closer toward the tail-post.

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The second picture shows a failed tack weld where the top longeron steps down for the horizontal stabilizer and elevator assemblies. Boy I hate in when I start bending some tubing and my tack weld breaks. Guess I should have welded that completely first. I do have a weldment I am going to make on the lathe before I weld in the stern-post and tomorrow I am taking mom to the doctor. Guess I will weld up what I have on Tuesday and make the turning Wednesday. Should be ready to flip the fuselage over by end of the week.

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Jim

[planecrazzzy]

Hi Jim,
Your doing a great job... I see a lot of great looking parts.
and what might be taken for granted... Your Building Log is gonna help others.
You'll be surprised that it will even help YOU.
Life happens , and sometimes hobbies take a Back seat.
Sometimes, I need to look back at what I did.

I used MIG for Tack welding and TIG for welding...
I always pre heat with a quick start propane bottle.
Those Welding supply houses... Gotta watch them.
I got some Rod at the beginning... It wasn't STAMPED...
I was having a hell of a time... WTF ???
Took it back.. They grabbed an 80 series rod.
Came home with the right stuff and it went smooth.

You have a good balance of pictures in your log.
Everybody loves Eye Candy

And The weight loss.... I'm putting in an 0-235 on my Wittman "Buttercup" (http://www.wingsforum.com/viewforum.php?f=320)
So I'm loosing the extra 20 lbs HA !!!!!


Save weight where you can.
.
Gotta Fly...
JAM

PS Here's a link for homemade tools or modifying some tools. (http://www.wingsforum.com/viewforum.php?f=325)

[Fokker Builder]

JAM, thanks for the props. Try ER70S rod, works pretty good.

Jim

[Fokker Builder]

3/29/17, I got some lathe and fuselage time yesterday starting off with fabricating the welding jig for the tail area. It was then on to the lathe since I had fabricated the tail post the day before I wanted to have the tail skid mount done so I could have clearance from the longerons for the 1/4" bolt and washer that retains the tail skid mount.
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I also fabricated these 10mm X 2mm X 34mm long bungs that weld horizontally in the end of the upper and lower longeron ends.
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And finally here is a picture showing the entire fuselage all tacked up after the tail was drawn together. I should be adding weld to all the tacks tomorrow and hopefully by the end of the day start taking the jigging down so I can flip the fuselage over and start welding the other side.
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Thanks
Jim

[Fokker Builder]

Das pilot der flugzeug
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[Fokker Builder]

Sorry about the ghost plane pic. Don't all builders do this though?

4/2/17, Bits and pieces and a work in progress this weekend after joining the two halves of the fuselage and pulling the tail together. I did manage to crimp the ends of the lower longerons at the wing pocket. This week those ends will get drilled and act as the jig for the simple wing cover panel. I will show you guys that the end of the week or next Sunday.
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The second two pictures are the humble beginnings of the control column. Those three cone shaped pieces of steel took a few failed attempts. I usually look at a failed part as a learning lesson and the two cones that are too small schooled me, especially since they were formed by hand on my vice with a smithing sledge hammer. No torch used there baby. There are more pieces to make before I can start to weld them together. The other end of the control stick is coming together nicely. There are normally two gun triggers inside that trapezoidal shape and the left side gets a stand off for an auxiliary throttle. The main throttle I have already made and gets mounted on the inside of the left fuselage cockpit area. Oh yeah, that ovaled piece is called the yoke. I am not done beating on that one either.
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Have a good week yall

Jim

[Frank Giger]

Beautiful work as always!

[Fokker Builder]

Thank you Frank

[Frank Giger]

Kind of a dumb question, but what are you going to paint the fuselage and other metal bits with to prevent rust?

Epoxy paint? Krylon? Oil of some kind? I'm not being cheeky, I'm really curious.

[Fokker Builder]

Frank,

To be honest I have not addressed that yet except for I will start with an etching primer since I am working in steel. The few small parts I painted last year I used a rattle can of etching primer from HD just to protect from rust. I am attempting to complete welding on the fuselage this Spring. I was hoping to have that completed by end of April but I just found out I am getting a residential client tomorrow so my fuse completion is pushed back to June.

Short answer etching coat primer, then a top coat of ??? probably oil in Fokker green and gray

Thanks
Jim

[Frank Giger]

Follow on dumb question...did you run linseed oil inside the tubing, coat it with something else, or just leave it?

A lot of guys seem to be building 100 year aircraft, intended to be passed down to others. Mine is "one and done," meaning that when I'm done with it either it becomes a display somewhere or scrap. This had some bearing on some of the decisions I made when building it.

[Fokker Builder]

Frank,

Good question. There is already a protectant inside and out. I have to clean the outside with acetone. Not sure what will happen with the plane when I am done. If a family member wants to fly then of course, otherwise it will get donated I guess.

Jim

[Fokker Builder]

4/8/17, Lots going on this week.
I forgot to take a decent pic of the dust cover for the lower wing cavity. You can see some of it in the fourth pic. In fact the first 5 pics are of work for the torque tube, cross bar, rudder bar base (with the Y), bearings, collar, and added most of the weldments to the yoke and control column proper. The torque tube gets held in place by a 10 mm collar, that will get a brass rivet I just made, and that flare at the end of the tq tube. The rudder base just has few welds and is the next welding project, (ran out of argon).
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The last three pics are of stuff that got fabricated over the last couple days.
First bucket holds about 50 1/4 round wire loops made out of 8mm X 2mm tubes that were bent around a 2" piece of aluminum that was heated with a torch and turned using the lathe.
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Second to last bucket holds the 50 or so Fokker clamp ferules that get welded to the clamp tubes that are in the last bucket.
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Tomorrow I will be notching some 16mm X 1mm tubing that will raise the rear cross tube that supports the rear of the torque tube and make some more brass rivets.
Long post and lots of pics tonight. Happy Sopwith hunting.
Jim

[Frank Giger]

You are going to have one helluva emotional event when all these fiddly bits of stuff come together and you step back to realize they've come together to make an airplane.

[Fokker Builder]

Thank you Frank

[Fokker Builder]

Was making some brass rivets today and. Leveled the fuselage to check tail plane incidence. Looks like about 3 degrees and you can see the slope in the top longeron starting behind the cockpit.
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Jim

[Frank Giger]

Neat! And that tail came together really well.

Do the longerons telescope, or was it one long piece?

What I found in my build is that is went in fits and starts. I'd do a bunch of "fiddly work" that didn't really have anything to show for it, followed by some assembly that made it look like things were really progressing, only to have to once again focus on "fiddly work."

Oh, and your shop is too clean. ;)

[Fokker Builder]

Neat! And that tail came together really well.

Do the longerons telescope, or was it one long piece?

What I found in my build is that is went in fits and starts. I'd do a bunch of "fiddly work" that didn't really have anything to show for it, followed by some assembly that made it look like things were really progressing, only to have to once again focus on "fiddly work."

Oh, and your shop is too clean. ;)

Frank,
First thank you for the compliment

They telescope starting at the front with 22mm X 1mm, then 20mm, and finally an 18mm by the tail. The verticle and cross tubes go from 22mm, 20, 18, and 15mm.

Yes the detail oriented (like the control column and yoke), or fiddy work as you say, can be much more time intensive.
The tidiness of my shop is out of necessity. It is only 13 X 30 and with all the tools, work benches, storage, and such it would be a nightmare if I let it get out of hand. I am also ADD so if I don't put my toys away I begin to think they were stolen when I can't find something. That is how I wind up with two of some things. :)

Jim

[Fokker Builder]

Welding up a bunch of these little f**kers (Fokkers, bet you thought I said something else) today in different configurations and tubing diameters. 1mm steel has a habit of blowing big holes when you start to weld on it. At least the ferule is 1.5mm so you can focus most of the initial heat on that piece.
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[Frank Giger]

While I'm also following this build over on the Aerodrome site, I'll use this one for the ignorant questions while the historical experts help on the other.

Namely, what are these clamps used for? To the uneducated, they don't look to do anything, as they go around a single tube.

[Fokker Builder]

Frank and anyone else reading,

These are called the Fokker or Dutchman clamp. They allow attachment of almost anything to a piece of fuselage tubing without welding mid span. Since welding mid span would weaken a piece of tubing this was an ingenious invention in 1918 by Anthony Fokker or one of his subordinates. There was an article written by Budd Davisson, in the August issue of, Experimenter,that tells how to make these.

The clamp pictured above would be a simple clamp that you could bolt a flange or tab to. Combine this with another piece of tubing and you could make a bearing housing that locks another piece of tubing in position. yesterday I had been making these with a TIG welder and becoming more proficient with only one blow out. Someone from the Aerodrome suggested using a torch here and I like the results.

Happy hunting
Fokker Builder

[Fokker Builder]

4/14, I have some pics to show you guys from this last week.
First couple pics are of the control column, yoke area, torque tube, and rudder bar post area. There are 11 Fokker clamps used to assemble all this. Everything is rough right now for pre-assembly. It will get taken apart, cleaned up, an etching primer and then some Fokker green. Still have much more to do as usual in these projects this was a first piece. It may all get redone.
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Third Pic is of all the rudder bar parts after fabrication. Sunday it will get welded if I have time. We are celebrating Easter tomorrow at moms and Sunday I am spending the day with my wife.
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Fourth pic is the bending fixture for the foot pedals and cross braces. The drawing called for 8mm X 1mm for the bent pieces but I used 10 X 2 (I didn't have the 8 X 1).
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Working at it a little most days. Today was a good day.
Chasing Camels
Jim

[Frank Giger]

Trial assembly!

w00t!

I actually really enjoyed the initial fitting, as it really makes the plans jump to life and things get really clear. Then the little adjustments before final assembly.

[Fokker Builder]

Thanks Frank

4/16, Easter Sunday. Welded up the rudder bar and started carving the control column handle. No Dremell there baby as I prefer the carving tools on mahogany. These two handle halves will get epoxied to each other around the tubing and get a brass rivet or two through the handle tubing.
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I think later this week I will surface prep the rudder bar, control column, and torque tube parts for a coat of etching primer.




End of the week I hope to start welding in all the wire loops in the corners of the fuselage clusters so I can start heading towards priming the fuselage later this spring.




Peace

Jim

[bookmaker]

Coming along nicely Jim.

Dale

[Fokker Builder]

Thanks Dale

[Fokker Builder]

4/21 - 4/23, Here are 3 pics of the 54 wire loops I was working on for 12 hours over the last three days. Also included was a gas welding rig I fabricated out of an old dolly and I was tightening up the welding on all the tubing clusters. Till I ran out of oxygen in the new used oxy/acetalene rig I got off Craigslist last week.
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The welding cart I cut the top off the dolly and welded up a new handle from some of my 30 mm tubing, a bent piece of 13 mm, some 1 mm sheet for the hose rack, and a couple nuts so I could thread in bolts for the chain keeper. Took all of 60 minutes and then sprayed it with some etching primer. I love making the shop more functional.
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Peace
Jim

[Frank Giger]

Pretty danged neat!

[Fokker Builder]

4/30, Work this week. I was getting antsy just finishing up all the partial cluster and wire loop welds so I did a little fabricating as well. Here you see the lower wing attachment gusset boxes. Later after the wing gets made and the attaching brackets are positioned these boxes get marked, drilled, and a sleave welded in so the bolt can pass through for the wing. I also welded in the 3 13mm cowling and turtle deck hoops.

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I started messing with the bungee box assemblies that weld on to the sides of the axle boxes but this was at the end of a 14 hour day. You know you have had enough when you cant see your weld puddle anymore. Time to stop before you break something, blow a big hole, or get frustrated.
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While waiting for a fellow builder to show up so we could bend him some wire loops for his DR I build I made a simple fixture to prop the tail post level so I could start jigging up the engine bearer tubes. As you can see we are all level.
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I hope everyone building got some time in this weekend.

Gentle breezes and fair skys

Jim

[cwilliamrose]

Would it be possible to get a well focused close-up photo of the highlighted area?

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[Fokker Builder]

William,

I do have a few pot holes in that area. Going back over that next ti me I fire up the torch.

Thanks
Jim

[Fokker Builder]

5/4/17, So I had to make the engine bearer brackets before I weld up the engine bearer tubes. I made 8 but probably only need 5 or 6. I also mocked up a fixture for welding up all the support tubes tubing for the engine compartment. Next week the fun begins.
Tomorrow I help set up for the Manassas airshow then get a new client midday, and Saturday I am working at the airshow.:)
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:)

[Mallory]

That motor looks like a 235 Chevy 6?

[Fokker Builder]

Mallory, 1969 Ford 300 inline 6. I will put an Offenhauser intake and 4 barrel Holley on it with a Marcotte 1-1.97 PSRU. Hoping to run a 100+" prop

[Fokker Builder]

5/13, Been slow on the headway with the engine bearers. Boy these tubing clusters get crowded and coping the ends of the tubing gets quite involved. I have to run out to Spahr Metric in Winchester on Monday to pick up a length of 25 mm X 1.5 mm (speced as 25 X 1.25 but I am going with what is in stock). I also need one more 20 mm X 1 mm tube then I think I am covered.
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Been busy with a new client this past week and may be looking at a pretty tough month starting this week. Always a blessing and a lot of work. I am shooting for completing the engine compartment by end of the week. We will see.




Jim

[Fokker Builder]

Engine bearers almost done
6351

[Fokker Builder]

5/21/17, This weeks work. A friend came by today with his conduit bender to see if we could put a tight radius on some 18 mm X 1 mm tubing. I capped the end with a welded plate and filled it with sand. Nope, wasn't happening as it kicked up on me. I also doubt I could bend the radius I need with just heat. The deal would be a mandrel bender. I am going to think about bending some of the 10 mm X 2 mm and maybe double them in the engine compartment and do singles in the four corners of the cockpit.
6355
6356




I was running low on oxy in the gas rig this week so I was piddling with some cross braces and hardware mounts. I will get some more oxy and filler rod tomorrow.




Tata

Jim

[Fokker Builder]

5/28/17, This weeks work. Wow, I guess it is a fair amount of interesting additions. First pic is of the throttle mounted by way of two Fokker clamps. This is the simple Fokker throttle with no mixture adjusting lever. Also you can see a Fokker clamp with a 7" piece of 13mm tubing welded to it. That is one of two lower control panel mounts.
6365
Second up is the engine compartment curved gussets located at the lower cross member. The plans called for 18mm X 1.25mm tubing but I had no decent way of bending this tubing in the radius I needed with out severely crimping the tubing. See the post last week. I decided to use some of the 10mm X 2mm since it was going to be easier to bend that by hand. I thought sence the 10X would have close to the same mass as the 18mm I could live with that.
6366
3rd pic is of one of the four cock pit gussets I heavily tacked in this week, again using the 10 X 2. This radius was tighter so I used the vice and a short piece of 3/4" pipe as an extension to bend these pieces.
6367
4th pic is the front gun mounts I fabricated and again are but half welded in. I have to cut some 10mm X 1mm or 13mm X 1mm diagonal braces and then I will finish weld these in.
6368
Fifth pic is of the beginning of the adjustable rear MG mounts. These consist of the gun saddle welded to some 25mm X 1.5mm tubing that adjusts inside a 28mm X 1mm double bolted Fokker clamp that is welded to a 60mm long double bolted Fokker clamp mounted on the front cock pit cross member.
6369
I had slated yesterday and then today to flip the fuselage over and weld the undersides of the engine compartment but during my shop time I was battling showers and drizzle and I must move the fuse outside for this. I felt like I was quite productive this week beside being swamped at work.
Peace and thank all the Vets this week
Jim

[Fokker Builder]

5/31, The Marcotte direct gear drive PSRU should ship by the end of the week.
6371
6372

[Fokker Builder]

6/4/17, Not much to show as I have been busy with a residential client and house projects. But here if the cool clamps I welded up this week.
These are double bolted Fokker clamps. They mount on the cross bar at the front of the cockpit and carry the adjustment for the rear gun saddles.
6377

[Frank Giger]

Very nice, and now I understand what all the fuss in making them was about.

[Fokker Builder]

The PSRU came today

[Fokker Builder]

Hoping to have something to show by the end of the week. Maybe Sunday

[Fokker Builder]

6/13/17, I had to un-crate the Marcotte PSRU to spec all the bolts. I had seen the balancer peeking out when I checked for hardware the day it arrived but had not pulled any parts except to confirm all the hub hardware returned. I will pick up some grade 8 automotive bolts for now and may drill them or order some drilled from AS later. Be cool to mock this up.
I have to redo my rear MG brackets as they came out slightly crooked then I think I will work on the cowling mount tubing and associated clamps. Then if I weld in the LG cups and put this on its legs it will start to look like a D VII.
6402
6403

[Frank Giger]

Neato! Nothing like having heavy things coming out of a big box to make one smile!

[Fokker Builder]

6/18/17, Almost done with the cowl hoops and associated brackets. Gotta hate it when you run out of acetylene on Friday night. The first pic is of the hoops and the jig I made to position them to measure the angle between the engine bearer tubes and the cowl hoops.
6408
2nd pic is of the two upper cowl hoop brackets.
6409
3rd pic shows the lower cowl hoop brackets to the right and the grab bars that I started.
6410
Fourth pic is of the gun mounts and some triangulating support tubes.
6411
Peace
Jim

[Fokker Builder]

6/25/17, Dang this is going to be a tall plane. Check out the pic with her legs on. I got the bungee boxes all welded up and one is on the axle box. For those that don't know bungee cords get wrapped tightly around the tubing of the two bungee boxes and looped over the axle. This provides the suspension for the front landing gear. The rear normally gets a skeg and that is supported by a bungee as well. Third pic is of the cowl hoops mounted with all 4 brackets. It is starting to look like a D VII. The last pics are the pilots step and rear ground handling loops.
6426
6427
6428
6429
6430

[Fokker Builder]

7/9/17, I promised some progress pics. The first pic is of some tabs that are welded on so that the very thin plywood turtle deck can be attached. It gets formed over a jig so that it has the matching curve and then it just gets bolted to these tabs.

6446

The second pic is of some simple clamps I made to attach things like the floor panel and two of these are the most forward turtle deck clamps. I am sure I will be making many more of these.

6447

[Fokker Builder]

7/17/2017, Just a little bit of somethin this weekend. We have a cockpit floor and an instrument panel.
6484
6485

[Frank Giger]

This is one of the parts to my build I really enjoyed!

[Fokker Builder]

A little cooler after the rain. Finished the stiffeners on the back of the panel and got it sealed. Also welded up the two Fokker clamps for the top panel mounts. Pics tonight. Oh, also ordered 3 drawings from NASM (National Air and Space Museum) of the Spandaus, so Albatros DVa, Fokker D VII and Dr I drawings as well.
6513

6514


Peace
Jim https://www.facebook.com/images/emoji.php/v9/f51/1/16/1f603.png:D

[Frank Giger]

Okay, next super dumb question:

How do you get your Fokker clamps around a tube that's already been welded on both ends to the fuselage?

[Fokker Builder]

Frank, you cut across the smaller tube with a band saw or cutting wheel on an angle grinder (best option) Then you just prey open the large tube with the now two halves of the smaller tube and slip it over the larger tube. Then just close it up and slip a bolt through the smaller tube halves. :)

Jim

[Frank Giger]

Ah. I didn't see a seam because they haven't had one cut yet. Duh.

[Fokker Builder]

I have been working on the seat frame the last few days. I made a fixture first and then walla. Will just need to shine it up before paint and final assembly. Anyone need a seat frame fixture for a 1918 Fokker D VII?
Peace
Jim
6583

[Frank Giger]

Very cool.

Looking forward to seeing the artwork of a seat you're going to come up with!

Since I know Dick about steel, how does one "shine it up," and what paint are you going to use? I've heard that epoxy or powder coating isn't such a grand idea as it can hide cracks that might form.

[Fokker Builder]

Frank,

Shine it up means paint prep. Wire wheels the welds and such, wipe down all tubing with acetone to remove all traces of anti-rust inhibitor. I will be using an etching primer with an oil top coat, mixed in Fokker green of coarse.

:cool:
Jim

[Fokker Builder]

I was alerted to a plans flaw after I made the seat frame. Seams there was going to be a conflict with a pair of crossing fuselage bracing wires so the upper cross tube had to be moved forward of the fuselage down tube. This also required new Fokker clamps with the now long ferules.
6589

[Frank Giger]

I saw that on "the other forum" and didn't quite understand what was meant; this picture fills in the gap.

For our gentle EAA readers - there is a highly technical and historically nit-picky thread of this build here:

http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66492

It's much more in depth than the one here, as there are folks dedicated to WWI aircraft with a lot of information and experience.

Because everyone is really, really smart there, I save all my dumb questions for this thread. They already think I'm an idiot over my build and some of the stuff I've done, and I cause enough rolled eyes as it is.

But hey, if it wasn't for builders like me, we couldn't have a true average; without a baseline of "gooder enough," how would we know if something was truly excellent? ;)

[Fokker Builder]

K, lots to show tonight. Ist two pics are of the second redo of the seat back tube. One fellow builder in New York, who is close to finishing his D VII by the way, keyed me in to what he thought was the correct way to fabricate the tube clusters at the fuselage down tube. The problem was that both his way, and mine, per plans would draw the two upright fuselage tubes, bowing them in, when a pilot would sit in the seat. The corrected way, shared with me by a fellow named Udo, in Germany, is for the seat back cross tube to float in the tubing cluster. This way as the cross tube flexes it can float through the sleeve. The cross tube also has three slight pre bends that you may be able to see in the one pic.
6642
6643
Third pic, I epoxied in some stiffeners. The plans have 3 stiffeners drawn in across the floor but as I made some simple clips to help anchor the floor from underneath I altered the plan a little. I also got a few drawings from Jeff, the fellow in New York, and took some of his suggestion with some coved supports that rest on a slightly lower fuselage cross tube under the floor.
6644
I added in two missing wire loops. They may or may not have been on the plans but they are required. In the fourth pic you can barely tell that at this point I hadn't completely welded them in. I also added the half loop at the front of the rear torque tube Fokker clamp. This loop gets two bracing wires under the floor to a point behind the lower rear spar attaching point.
6645
6646
The last pic shows that I attached the instrument panel today as well. These are the two lower brackets. The top two connections are by simple Fokker clamps but I need to get 2" #8 mock up bolts to complete it.
6647
It was a beautiful couple days to be working in the Flugzeugwerke. https://www.facebook.com/images/emoji.php/v9/f51/1/16/1f603.png:D
Jim

[Frank Giger]

Things are really starting to come together.

Allow 20 minutes extra when you get the seat in. Must. Make. Airplane. Noises.

[Fokker Builder]

Here is the final cock pit floor mounting using #8 machine screws and the simple brackets I made anchoring the floor to some of the control linkage cross tubes. There 4 of these in front and 4 in the rear. I think this is a very clean application. :) Peace Jim
6648
6649

[Fokker Builder]

Cool stuff this week too. Here we go. I refabricated the entire rudder control area; cross bar, Fokker clamps, rudder post base, upper rudder post, and of course a new rudder pedal. I also started paint prep and priming these new pieces so they can make it through the winter and next year top coat them with a Fokker green.

6651

Second pic, I remade the throttle mount (brown). The old one (black) was an early welding project and I had always planned on making a new one. It was a fugly piece.

6652

Third pic, I had mentioned a month or so ago that I had ordered all the Fokker D VII, Albatros D Va, and Spandau MG drawings that NASM (National Air and Space Museum Archives) offered. They showed up Wednesday. :D

6653

[Frank Giger]

Very cool - and it goes to show that the skills learned in building an airplane means that the first pieces made and were great early on are barely making the grade towards the end.

I needn't warn you that perfect is the enemy of good, though. Sometimes it if works one just has to move on if they want to see the project completed.

[Fokker Builder]

Thanks Frank. Now on to remake those triangulated brackets under the cock pit floor. :D

[Fokker Builder]

Welp, a little more work today. I redid the rear torque tube and floor supports, Fokker clamps, cross tube, and primed the floor clips.
6657

[Frank Giger]

While I'm sure you're much better at this airplane building stuff than I am, a note on that flooring:

When you spar varnish that sucker, don't be shy about any bolt holes. I have floor #2 on my plane because I neglected them, and guess where water and gas and junk went, saturating between the layers of plywood and turning it into a mess?

We all strive to keep weight down, but this is one area I would not skimp on. One wouldn't think that there would be a lot to get on the flooring in an open cockpit airplane that we keep pretty sterile, but that just ain't so.

[Fokker Builder]

9/10/17, Here is the work I got done in my spare time this week. I am only putting up the one pic tonight. I made 6 Fokker clamps Wednesday in the hour before dinner and the next day I made the four struts you see before dinner.Saturday I got it all primed and today I capped the ends of the cowling frames. I also primed the cowl frames and their double Fokker clamps that anchor the cowl frames to the fuselage. I also drilled the control column handle I had made out of mahogany but as I suspected it wasn't stable enough. I know where I can get some apple wood. That should make nice handles for the column and the throttle.
6676

[Frank Giger]

Mahogany wasn't stable enough? You have to tell me what you mean by this!

I know I sound like an idiot, but the only way not to, in my experience, is to ask the question.

[rwanttaja]

Mahogany wasn't stable enough? You have to tell me what you mean by this!
The Brain: "I will accept nothing less than mahogany!"
Pinky: "There is no substitute for Diana Ross!"

Years ago, my EAA Tech Counselor told me not to mix types of wood, as different species had different coefficients of thermal expansion (CTE). They would expand and contract differently when the temperature changed. If they were glued together, the bond would be subject to unanticipated sheer loads.

Ron "Nog!" Wanttaja

[Fokker Builder]

Good afternoon Frank and Ron.

What I meant by not stable enough was that the wood split once I added a couple holes through both halves of the handle that already had groove cut out with carving chisels. Mahogany makes very nice cabinet making wood, it turns well, is easy to shape and takes an edge well. But, and this is a big but, it is not very dense. Hence, it split. I know where there is an apple orchard that was cut down out by mom and the land is up for sale. Next time I am out there I will call and harvest some nice branches out of the brush piles.

Jim

[rwanttaja]

Thanks much, Jim. Had never worked with Mahogany.

Ron Wanttaja

[Fokker Builder]

9/24/17, I promised some pics after a few days with an hour here and a couple hours there. It doesn't look like much but fabrication takes time. First thing I did this week was track down some grade 8 1/4" x 3 1/2" bolts. These were fitting in 10 mm x 2 mm sleeves that got welded to the fuselage. So the sleeves had to be drilled out slightly and then the bolt heads weld onto the bottom of the sleeve.
6693
6694
6695
The next two pics are of the upper and lower rudder mounting area. The two flat vertical tabs have two 3 mm holes drilled for attaching a spruce gap filler within the rudder hinges. I also drilled the tip of the longeron unions and welded in a 10 mm x 2 mm horizontal bolt sleeve for the hinges as well. I did bend some 2 mm sheet in a long U shape that gets welded at the upper longeron (for the vertical stabilizer) I suppose. I need to research this on subsequent Kiger drawings or the web as my one page did not show much detail.
I have some more fabrications to weld in back here but it is coming along nicely. Now if the Skins could win tonight it would be a most fabulous night.

[Frank Giger]

So what fits onto those huge bolts?

[Fokker Builder]

Frank those are for anchoring the horizontal stab, probably with welded in bungs inside the large tubing of the stab

[Frank Giger]

Ah. I didn't realize we were towards the tail there. I thought they were up by the cockpit!

[Fokker Builder]

When longerons come to a point we are near the tail :D

[Fokker Builder]

10/8/17, I actually did a lot today. Had 3 pics but really everything is on this one pic. Let's see, first thing I did this morning was to cut off that lower bolt sleeve, tab, and rudder stand off. The day I welded that on there were French Nieports and British SE5's strafing the flugzeugwerke so my work that day was off by 6mm. The redo went well and is spot on.


That long bracket up top receives the back of the vertical stabilizer and the rudder hinge bolt. The one I had bent up last week during the enemy attack was too short and had to be redone. Just needs to be rounded and have the bolt hole drilled.


Next I worked on shaping the rudder gap filler (in spruce). I didn't review it on the plans today but pretty sure it gets a strap around the stern post and it gets 2 small screws through both the upper and lower tabs.


After the rear was secure and I flipped the fuselage on its side to finish up the underside welding, I then started to mock up the vertical stabilizer. I made the 10mm piece that runs from the lower and upper fin tubes. It came out well. Much of the rest of the tubing parts are fabricated but still need to fab the two brackets that weld on and hold the rest of the rudder gap filler. Hope to finish that work this week and start mocking up more tail feathers next weekend.
6725

[Fokker Builder]

Here is the start of the vertical stabilizer. The first thing that got done was the small tube was welded to two sleeves. You have to get the angle just right as the two larger tubes slip through these sleeves and must meet at the right point. The apex gets bolted to a Fokker clamp that rides on the front cross member of the horizontal stabilizer. The rear bolts in at the top of that upright bracket at the tail post. I hope this weekend to make the two 1 mm brackets that get welded at the upper and lower terminus of the V.S. so that I can then mount the rest of the rudder gap filler. There is also two 10mm X 2MM bolt sleeves that get welded across those two ends. The upper one is for mounting stabilizing wires and a rudder hings and the lower is for mounting to the fuselage and a rudder hinge bolt.
6733

[Frank Giger]

Looks good, and a lot more complicated than I thought it would be.

[Fokker Builder]

10/24, Well it needs some cleaning up and to be trimmed but here is the vertical stabilizer. I know they are poor pics but today I welded on the U shaped bracket top and bottom and then a 10 X 2 mm bolt sleeve was through at both locations. I think I am going to move the fuselage up into the ceiling so I can start making the horizontal stabilizer, rudder, and elevator next. I already made these four tail feather pieces once before in aluminum but was not satisfied with the structural integrity of tube and rivet construction for a 2,000 lb plane with 1,000 lbs of thrust.
6744
6745

[Frank Giger]

Hmmm, how much heavier is the steel for the horizontal stab/elevator in steel than aluminum?

You may wind up stretching your engine mount a bit for W&B.

[Fokker Builder]

I think it was 15% difference Frank. This plane is being built as it was 100 years ago. My bare engine though will be 200 lbs lighter. Then I get to add a few things like a battery and such that they didn't have in 1918. The pilot is the big weight difference :P but I am down from 279 to 239 and still dropping. Hahaha

[Frank Giger]

I actually made a chart for W&B on my Nieuport to make things easy for myself:

http://www.darts-page.com/images/Nieuport/CG_chart.jpg

Yellow means that one is on the edge of CG envelope in the square, as the math did not match my chart perfectly.

I cut it off at 200 pounds because I'm still well below it (though at one point I was 180 pounds!). Of note is that the pilot weight pushes the CG back far enough to matter. If I were a beefier fellow I'd have to add some weight to the nose.

The first option would be to run a reinforcing sleeve through the axle or use a heavier gauge of tubing for it. I may wind up doing that anyhow if I bend this replacement. It's a sort of weakness in the design, and everyone I know has bent at least one in both the Graham Lee and Airdrome models. Butch told me to throw the supplied one away or sleeve it from the start, but what does he know? So what if he's been flying tube-and-gusset replicas for 25 years.

[Fokker Builder]

6746

[Fokker Builder]

Horizontal Stab progress

11/5/17, No where near done with this piece but made more progress today. First I cut and jigged up the leading edge tubing which is the smaller tube at the front of the triangle.
6754
Next I welded up two more of the short riblets making four to chose two from. I notched the two that I chose and they are now jigged up at the back corners of the triangle (third pic) and are only about 9 1/2" long.
6755
6756
Third I welded up another medium sized riblet (the two thin tubes welded to the short piece large 37mm tubing (sleave). I wasn't happy with this one and welded a third. You can see these medium riblets in the first pic.
Fourth pic is of the simple fixture for welding up the medium and long riblets. I may weld up a fourth medium one before resetting the fixture for the longest riblets that get welded to sleaves. More rain tomorrow so I should get close to slipping the sleaved riblets over the leading inner frame tubes. If I'm lucky may do some tack welds.
6757

[Frank Giger]

Yet another dumb question! The coping at the end of the large tubes isn't quite flush, as if the one the elevator attaches to is a bit too short. Am I missing something?

[Fokker Builder]

Frank,

The spar tube isn't too short as it is cut to length. The 45* tube is long. I am getting smarter with more experience, It is hard to weld on an edge without melting away base material. The spar tube (90* cut) is actually thicker at the welding point and easier to weld than the piece that was notched on the 45*. If I had thought about it I would have left them both long until the corner is all welded up. To answer your question briefly, the excess will be trimmed later.

Glad you are getting your mug back in the wind with BeBe before winter. :D

Jim

[Frank Giger]

I thought it had to be flush all the way around...but then it's welding, so you can fill in the "smile" of the end there. Or not. It is steel, after all, and it's not that's going to be taking a lot of stress.

Winter don't skeer me. My mom knitted me a beautiful tricolor scarf to wear while flying! In fact, I like it when it gets (Alabama) cold. The air is a lot smoother. Of course I'm a nut and went flying a couple winters ago when it was 12 degrees! It's all just mittens and bundling up. Of course one can't have any exposed skin, but other than that it's all good.

[Fokker Builder]

You should get mom to crotche a tri-color cat suite with feeties and a flap :P

[rwanttaja]

You should get mom to crotche a tri-color cat suite with feeties and a flap :P

Fokker Builder, you'll need a flying helmet for your first flight. I'll lend you one of mine...
http://www.bowersflybaby.com/picklehaube.jpg

Ron "Hals und Beinbruch!" Wanttaja

[Fokker Builder]

Wantaja

I made this and a two handed sword one week in the old bike shop when I had nothing to do. Will this work? I also have a fibreglass German military style helmet with an 8ball and a bunch of save the bimbos type stickers too. :D

6764

[Fokker Builder]

Frank,

You are correct, the end of that stab does get closed up. :) Thanks

Jim

[Fokker Builder]

Horizontal stab
The stab is out of the fixture. Have some more welding to finish this weekend but should be complete by Sunday. Will attempt to weight it as well.
6773

[Frank Giger]

I tend to forget just how big a darned DVII is, but that stab sure brought it home.

[Fokker Builder]

Frank, it is hanging on the end of an extension ladder. About 4 ft off the back of the truck. Kinda like when a fisherman hangs a fish he just caught for a picture. It changes the perspective a little.

Jim

[Fokker Builder]

11/21/17, So I got a few hours yesterday to work out the design procedure and start some building of control horns today. For those that don't know what that means is that these are the flappy things that make the plane change direction, other than just turning the engine off so it will go down :D




First pic shows the process. The item depicted in the drawing to the left is what I am trying to make. Three with a 30 mm hole that go on the elevator and the rudder, and two more with 35 mm holes one each for the ailerons. Rather than start with flat sheet metal and having to bend an ovaled tube I started with a piece of aerodynamic tubing. The first one was my test piece and tried two different ways of accomplishing the part. The second end worked to my satisfaction so the next piece shows the layout and the last piece shows the band saw work. After that trailing edge gets crimped and welded together the back of the hole gets a notch cut out, pressed together, welded shut and redrilled with the hole saw to resize.

6778

The next picture shows the five control horns. The first one on the left is finished and ready to weld on either the spar of the elevator or the rudder. It has the "U" shaped 1 1/2 mm receiver for the control cable ends. The last two waiting control horns are the 35 mm ones for the two ailerons.
6779

[Fokker Builder]

11/26/17, So here are my five little control horns ready to weld on their associated control surface spars. Aint the purdy? And tadah the horizontal stabilizer.
6785
6786

[Fokker Builder]

12/10/17, Work accomplished this week includes prepping the torque tube control horns and mount them in a welding fixture to be finished this coming week. Yesterday during the little snow storm I finished the steel bushings and keepers for all the tail feather hinges. I also made patterns for cutting the seat from 1/2" birch plywood, aluminum seat back, and a pattern for trying to make the hinges again from one piece of steel instead of using a weld on retainer strap. Oh and I turned some of the apple wood to make a new handle for the control column.
6817
6818

[Frank Giger]

Sweet! The seat is where one should fudge a bit on dimensions from the originals, and make it as wide as possible. They didn't carry handheld radios, tablets, etc., with them like we do.

[Fokker Builder]

12/16/17, So here are some pics of what went on this week. First we have the finished torque tube with the control cable horns that were finished this week. It is actually black as of this afternoon. Next we have one of the new elevator hinges in 1.5 mm with a steel 1.5 mm bushing that will get silver soldered in place. I am liking this option better than the 2 mm hinge with a 1 mm brass bushing. And last we have a sheet metal shrinker/stretcher that I acquired this week and made a vise mount for them. Still waiting on the 4 X 8 sheet of 0.040 2024 T-3 aluminum.
6834
6835
6836

[Fokker Builder]

12/20/17, Going to go finish the tour at NASM, Udvar Hazy Center that was cut short by a crazy woman who was trying to quit smoking 7 years ago. https://static.xx.fbcdn.net/images/emoji.php/v9/f51/1/16/1f603.png The restoration building has been getting moved from Greenbelt, MD to Udvar Hazy and will try to get in there as well. Next week because of cold weather forcast I will head to NASM in DC and visit with the Fokker D VII there and the Albatros D Va.
6869
6870
6871

[Fokker Builder]

Lookie what I found today
I went to the NASM Udvar Hazy Center today for a birthday vist. Was wandering around simply awestruck when I first got there. I was on my second pass through the WW I and early aviation area when I saw a booth title "Construction Techniques". I had relegated myself to not see anything resembling Fokker D VII till next week when I plan to go down to DC and visit the D VII and Albatros there. I happen to look up and see a D VII elevator suspended from 2 wires and a girder. I was able to deduce the hinge material was definitely not 2 mm. The ends that get squished also were smooth owing to having been pressed in a fixture. The welds were neat and minuscule actually. Man I went and asked, knowing full well I wouldn't get one, for a step ladder to get a closer look. The retired Army Air Service veteran working the information booth asked why. he was thrilled to hear that I had a spar, hinges, and control horns on my work bench just waiting for me to start assembly. I got to view into the restoration hanger and plan to go back for the open house in January when I hope to get up close and personal with the 20's era trainer that is being restored along with Flak Bait.

A good birthday after noon
Jim
6872

[Fokker Builder]

Got my band saw today. Set up and ready to rip. Picking up black walnut, maple, and ash for a couple propellers, four wingtip bows, cockpit cutouts, and a couple tail skids :D
6895

[Frank Giger]

Yea! Buying tools is oddly satisfying.

I have to say that building an airplane and home improvement are skills that reinforce each other.

More than once tools I bought for the airplane got used at the house to fix something.

Other than the satisfaction of cutting one's own prop, it would seem it would be less expensive to have Culver cut one for you.

[planecrazzzy]

Yea! Buying tools is oddly satisfying.

I have to say that building an airplane and home improvement are skills that reinforce each other.

More than once tools I bought for the airplane got used at the house to fix something.

Other than the satisfaction of cutting one's own prop, it would seem it would be less expensive to have Culver cut one for you.


Yeah... One less thing to worry about.
Maybe he got a new chain saw fer Christmas too...

Any failures STILL make good clocks,
and more than pay for the wood used,
Gotta Fly...

[DaleB]

Tools and materials bought "for the airplane" are almost never used exclusively for the airplane, right? I've used my bandsaw, epoxy, buffer (with 3M abrasive wheel for deburring), shears, hand seamer, etc. for various household projects. Even my rivet squeezer has come in handy for flattening out bent things. When I needed a tool to clean crud out from between our deck boards, a piece of scrap angle and my "airplane" tools produced a one-of-a-kind tool for just that. And not to get too far into the details, but the Tyvek suits, chemical resistant gloves and respirators I bought for etching, alodine treating and spraying epoxy primer came in REAL HANDY when there was a deceased, decomposing skunk under our deck.

[Fokker Builder]

Yep, I've even used some of my precious aluminum sheeting to make a bejeweled light fixture for the wife's closet. Birch ply for her dads canvas paintings, welded stuff for the house, made some strutts for the wheel barrow when I blended two broken wheel barrows into one, so on and so forth. Yep, can't hold a decent man card without tooling.

[Fokker Builder]

Oh yeah, I can get the wood for 2 propellers for $650. Add some epoxy and quality time in the garage, priceless. :D

[Frank Giger]

I always considered prop carving as next level artistry; the science only goes so far in designing and cutting the right one.

[Fokker Builder]

Some of us are just risk takers I suppose. Got propeller blade cross section drawings. I will build one with best guess and go from there. I'm shooting for between 1500 and 2000 rpm only. Originals have like 58* pitch and a 9" cord. That's a lot of blade. :cool:

[Frank Giger]

Well, hell, this is the wrong forum for finding folks who play it safe right down middle on everything.

Risk adverse people do not build their own airplanes, after all.

[Fokker Builder]

Hahaha, yep. I was on Fokker Team Shorndorff (sp.) website yesterday. Achim wants $6,000 for an Axial replica prop. Delivered in 6 weeks. 3 at a time I think I could make a side business. :D. Going to NASM today to visit the D VII and Albatros. :)
6899

[bookmaker]

For what it is worth about building your own prop, a local friend recently had a wooden prop fly apart on a Long Eze. It took out one of the rudders and required shutting the engine down. He didn't quite make the runway. Fortunately no injuries but significant airframe damage.

Dale

[1600vw]

I know a man who makes all his own props. When I saw his airplane he told me under that spinner is a square block of wood. He does not carve or only carves his props to the spinner. He also puts little winglets on the end of the blades. Like what are used for wing tips.

This is the airplane I speak of. This man flies this airplane all over the country. I believe it has flown from coast to coast. I should have taken close up pics of his prop.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iGFD_R_3mYg

[Frank Giger]

At six grand a pop, I might carve my own.

It all comes down to how authentic one wants their airplane to look.

I just told Alaina at Culver to "Make one for the engine that works on my airplane and looks pretty." ;)

[Fokker Builder]

National Air and Space museum (NASM) trip today and learned a few things. No pic for this but the stacking domes on the wing leading edges are all but 2" across. I thought they were much larger. Should be easy to hammer out. I wish that plane was exhibited with more light. There was some good monocoupe samples probably from the Stropp Albatros too.
Next and there are a couple pics of strange serial numbers on the NASM Fokker D VII. I thought these were much larger at least on thefuselage except there were no numbers on the side of the fuse. I have to check specs and research photos to confirm these locations of smaller serial numbers on the fin, horizontal stabilizer, and elevator are correct.
6900
6901
Next and there is a pic, the cowling louvers look to be round with the flat cutout for the vent in the back. All the other D VII louvers I have seen are vertical with round upper and lower ends.
6902
The pic for the BMW D IIIa engine came out blurry but man that engine is enormous. I also noted from the display of a damaged Spandua LMG that the side plates are at least 2 mm thick. When I start building guns I am sure this spec will be in the NASM LMG drawings. I couldn't tell this from the LMG in a case at Udvar Hazy 2 weeks ago.
6903
6904
Pics of the seat tomorrow.
Jim

[Fokker Builder]

OK, I did some photo research last night. These serial number locations were on other aircraft along with the roundish louvers but they were on aircraft that were made at the Albatros factory. The strange part is the lack of serial numbers on the fuselage by the national symbol and mid section, nor are there weights and balance markings.

[Fokker Builder]

A place to sit
1/14/18, Dangit, cold again. Here is the seat I worked on a few hours Thursday and Friday. The seat was cut out flat, bent the 5?8" flange on the bottom, then the flange was run through the shrinker to force the seat into the round. It was then clamped and riveted to the seat base. I have to do some more work like bend the upper edges backward, cover with foam, leather, and lace the edges.
6905
The last pic I think Lori is starting to be more supportive of the plane. She got me some signage.
6906

[planecrazzzy]

Looks like an Airplane "Banger"
.
Gotta Fly...

[Fokker Builder]

Oh so very cool. I was asked to give a presentation on the build by the Mid-Atlantic Chapter, of the World War I Historians, at the Nation Air and Space Museum, Udvar Hazy today. So very cool. Met some great people, some I have met before, and learned a great deal. I was invited back and they would like me to keep them updated.

Schwing schwing

[Fokker Builder]

1/21/18, So here is what I was working on today and a picture of a new acquisition. I started rolling the edges of the seat with a plastic body working hammer and a dolly. I have some wrinkles to work out. See in some areas the metal is being stretched and in others it is bunching up. As a fried likes to say, metal is more plasticized than people give it credit. This 2024 T-3 aluminum has already moved quite a bit at this point.

6920

I also got in my aluminum/bronze bushing stock, 2 3/4" O.D. X 1 1/2" I.D. These bushings are going around the 2 1/8" steel axle and inside the 6"+ wide motorcycle style wheels I will be making.

6921

The acquisition I got was a rotary cross slide table that I will use to drill hole circles for the spokes, mounting bolts for the disc brake rotor, as well as other hole circles I will have to drill.

6922

Good to be in the shop today. Did find the start of a little rust, from the recent humid weather, on the lathe and rotary table so they are sprayed with WD 40 and the whole shop will get a good going over later this week.




Jim

[Fokker Builder]

2/9/18, Here we go pyramid plate heel treads for the cockpit floor.
6949
6950

[Frank Giger]

Hmmm, I'm guessing those are really rounded and easy to slide one's heel along.

In my aircraft they'd just wind up filled in with dirt and smoothed out anyway.

[Fokker Builder]

Good morning Frank,

Yeah, I am thinking those hard edges on the wooden retainers are going to get seriously abraided as well

Jim

[Fokker Builder]

2/11/18, So here is the last two days work. Most of the first extra wide spoke wheel hub for the Fokker. This would go a lot faster if not for my 85 year old, 1 hp lathe. Plus the boring bar I made worked so poorly I had an awful lot of chatter. Could be cause I made the thing almost 10" long. It was not a big surprise it didn't work so well. I found a 6" boring bar on Ebay, should be here by the 11th. In the mean time I am going to finish this wheel and drill the next hub out to 1 1/2" while I wait for the new boring bar.




Oh, by the way, this is why I bought this 5" diameter 6061 T 6 aluminum from Metal Supermarket in Beltsville, MD.
6962

[Mark Thompson]

Looks like I am going to half to build my own wheels too. What size tire are you going to use. I need to use a antique truck tire from Lucas tire. As large motorcycle tires won't hold the weight of my plane. (Curtis 0-1) about 3,000lbs gross. tire size is supposed to be 30X6 on 20 in rim. What size rim are you going to use. How many spokes.?

[Frank Giger]

What are you going to do for rims?

I think I'm going to talk to Airdrome about larger wheels for the Noop. I just don't have any clearance for the axle.

Wife says your seat was made just like mine, only with skill. :D

[Mark Thompson]

Frank going to buy blank tractor rim. 20X5.5 Then drill for adding 40 spoaks like motorcycle rims.


6971

[Fokker Builder]

Frank and Mark,

Check out Coker Tire. They have a https://www.cokertire.com/wheels/rims/clincher-beaded-edge-rim-28-x-2-40-spoke.html that I am going to use and the tires to go with rims. I can send the hub and they will spoke and mount or I can order the rims and spokes and do it myself. The tires to come in different colors but I have been told that the grey and white rubber is softer than the black.

Jim

[Sam Buchanan]

Frank going to buy blank tractor rim. 20X5.5 Then drill for adding 40 spoaks like motorcycle rims.


6971

Man...that looks HEAVY!

[Fokker Builder]

I have been multi-tasking with the warm weather. Been getting some gluing and spar varnish work done. The cockpit floor is finaled and I mounted the seat in the frame after widening the front 5/8" and started adding foam. This on top of working on the second hub.
6985
6986

[Fokker Builder]

2/27/18, still need to drill the 40 spoke holes per hub but need to email the rim and spoke supplier first. I also need to make a jig that will hold both hubs upright on the rotary table so I can drill the hole circles. I have also make a few shackles where the rudder and elevator cables will attach to the control column and rudder bar. Getting closer to start ripping some ash on the band saw and start laying up a tail skid and propeller.
7001

[Fokker Builder]

3/4/18, I got a bit done this week. Here are some of the wheel spacers stock (bronze), washers (steel and bronze), and end caps (steel) 5/8". I also got some machinist clamps in and my 13" CuTech planer. Also ordered this week were the 40 spoke, 28 X 3" rims and tires. I need to mock up the rims and hubs to measure for the stainless steel spokes. I also sent off a check for enough printed lozenge linen fabric for the two wings. Woot woot
7021
7022
7023
7024

[Fokker Builder]

3/11/18, I promised you guys some pics and I got a little time on some elevator hinges too. I have 5 more hinges to make for the tail feathers and then the spars for the ailerons get hinges made for 35 mm spars rather than the 30 mm for the elevator and rudder. Next is a pic of the delivery from Coker Tire this week. Those are 40 spoke 28" X 3" rims and tires with their associated inner tubes and spoke nipple straps. I stuck the 7 1/4" hubs in the wheel pic so you can get a sense of scale. These are big rims.
7051
7052
7053

[Frank Giger]

Sweet.

Those are some large wheels, but the full scale Fokker DVII is a monster of an airplane.

[Fokker Builder]

So this and some hinges is what I have managed to wiggle into my busy schedule.

First the seven hinges for the elevator and rudder have been roughed in, clipped, and pressed together. They need to be silver soldered and then have lubrication holes drilled and then the are ready to slip over the 30 mm spars. I also cut strap, clip, and bushing material so I can make 6 aileron hinges that go over those 35 mm spars.

Now for the pics. The rotary table came with a centering piece of thick wall tubing that was also knurled. On the lathe I turned out a recess to match the centering piece so my hub drilling fixture would center up on the table. Then I had to turn out the contours for both sides of the hub into the drilling fixture. The hubs I made have a 1/2" X 3/4" shoulder for attaching a brake disc adapter plate. You can see the recesses in the second pic and then you can see that both ends of the hubs sit flush in the fixture ready for clamping.

Now I need to mock up the rims with the hubs and measure for spokes. Then I contact Buchannon Spoke to get specs on the spoke hole shape.
7074
7075
7076
7077

[Fokker Builder]

So here are a couple pics of the hinges. First is a box of what goes on the rudder and ailerons. The second is one of the hinges and two collars that go on the elevator. The hole in the steel bushing is for lubrication since I used steel instead of bronze. The elevator gets three hinges. The two end ones each get two collars that act as keepers and the center hinge is floating. The keepers/collars do get riveted to the spar. All hinges do get an additional spruce fabric stay secured by two aluminum straps each. Those I have already made and do not require being slipped over the hinges at this time.
7111
7112

[Fokker Builder]

So we have something a little substantial to look at for the D VII today. I got one side of the rudder tacked up.
7117
First I had to prepare the spar. The bottom gets flared as you can, and that bottom hinge as a result only gets one retaining collar. I just used a ball pean hammer and a dolley in the vise to flare the end of that tube. Work slow and in stages so you don't mangle the tubing.
7118
Then I had to load all the hardware onto the spar; four hinges, 3 collars, and a control horn. Then the top of the spar gets squished down to the thickness of the outer edge tubing.
7119
I included a picture of the bending fixture I set up on the press.
7120
I shot a general pic of the welding jig
7121
I created on the work table using cleats and shims to hold everything in place while I tacked it all up. I now have to flip it over and tack the riblets on the other side, final weld, clean it up, and get some primer on. Enjoy

[Fokker Builder]

4/15/18, Here we go. First up is the rudder I have been working on this week, it's now primed.
7128
Second I rough cut some leather patterns for the seat.
7129I also cut 40' of 5 mm lacing from the hide. I also cut 104" of 8" wide leather for the cockpit coaming.
7130
Then I took some scrap and drill holes in the aluminum 30 mm apart and laid out some leather to fold over for the seat edge.
7131
Here is how the lacing pattern looks.
7132

[Fokker Builder]

4/22/18, Fokker D VII progress. I promised pics of what I managed on the plane this week. Here is a pic of some epoxy starved lamination in ash. Without micro balloons to thicken the epoxy to a slurry this is what happens. I clamped this pretty hard and fully expected some starved areas. So I did consider this an experiment and a test run. I have ordered some DAP Weldwood epoxy resin glue. This is the same glue Culver uses for gluing wooden propeller laminations.
7147
7148
I also started making the brackets that are bolted to the tail skid and will weld some of those up tomorrow. Since I already have some planed ash I will steam some more for the next lamination as well.
The last pic is the Sonex tail wheel Iwill be using and have to design a bracket that will harmoniously attach this purely non-Fokker adaptation. Oh by the way I went to Hearne Hardwoods and got 4 9' X 1.5" X 9" wide black walnut, beautiful wood. This will get layed with some hard maple I already have for my propeller. This is another reason to do minor laminations first so that I can flesh out the gluing and clamping issues first.
7149
Blue skies
Jim

[Kyle Boatright]

4/22/18, Fokker D VII progress. I promised pics of what I managed on the plane this week. Here is a pic of some epoxy starved lamination in ash. Without micro balloons to thicken the epoxy to a slurry this is what happens. I clamped this pretty hard and fully expected some starved areas. So I did consider this an experiment and a test run. I have ordered some DAP Weldwood epoxy resin glue. This is the same glue Culver uses for gluing wooden propeller laminations.

Blue skies
Jim

You could use cabosil rather than microballoons to thicken epoxy. That should be structurally better.

[Fokker Builder]

Thanks Kyle, I ordered some Weldwood and will give that a shot. I have a gallon of epoxy to use up so maybe research the cabosil as well.

Jim

[Fokker Builder]

4/27/18, Here are 5 pics from this week. First up is the spoked wheel hubs I drill and champhered on one side. If you hadn't guessed I had been pretty apprehensive about just gnawing at these time consuming hubs with a drill bit. My rotary table was the bomb. I need to get a 9" drill extension to champher the inside of the flanges. Pretty cool huh. Don't worry, I did muck up one hole as my clamp hit the back of the drill press. So I am going to move the hole and JB Weld the crescent since it is only off by half a hole.
7173
Next up is the tail skid and the clamps I made for it. One clamp is where the suspension (bungies) anchor and the other one mounts in the base of the tail post. I am going to make a skeg shoe for this tail skid and have the plastic resin glue from AS to use for the next tail skid I will laminate next week.
7174
7175
7176
7177
I did have a nice visit from Culpeper Newport Tom today. He was picking up the last of the pyramid plate. I have what I need so I gave him what was left.
Peace
Jim

[Frank Giger]

So, then, the notion of just wrapping it a bunch in duct tape is out, huh?

[Fokker Builder]

Tail skid's done

Yes Frank that only works on Newps

I have to confess that I didn't get much time on plane this week. I did get the second tail skid glued up with the Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue though. I like it by the way and plan to do some more ash lamination before I lay up the propeller. That was earlier in the week and the piece is in the top of the pic.

I did want to finish the first tail skid this week. It did give me fits bending up from flat 2 mm stock that wrapped bracket at the end. The ash is coated in epoxy, even inside the bolt holes which I over drilled by one size. The only thing left to do is swap out the temporary bolts with AN hardware.
7185

[Frank Giger]

Great that you epoxied inside the holes.

It was a lesson I had to learn the hard way on the plywood flooring I used on the Noop. I made sure I followed this procedure on the second one I made. ;)

[Fokker Builder]

Thanks Frank,

I just loaded the bolt holes till they were pouring epoxy back into the mixing pot and then run an ear thingie (Q tip, for those that don't speak doohickie) through the hole. Vundebar

[Fokker Builder]

Soft thing soft and squishy this way comes
5/10/18 Fokker D VII progress. I stitched up the seat today and looks like I have some adjusting to do. The last pic shows that the cover doesn't stitch to the frame or the aluminum. There are holes spaced every 30 mm and double waxed cord is wound every 5 holes. This way if the cord gets cut by the aluminum it only fails in a small area. The stitching from the cover to the under cord is one piece and I have not finished off the two ends. I will un-stitch the one side of the seat, pull it forward, and then restitch. I think this is going to work out.
7190
7191
7192

[Fokker Builder]

5/17/18 Rainy days and tail skids. Part of making the tail skids meant making a swiveling mounting lug which required a new tail post. Hence, tonight I am making this post about a post. :D




The concept here is that the tail skid lug can rotate about 15* to 20* side to side. The T slot allows you to insert the lug and then rotate it 90* and then mount your tail skid. I could have drilled and added a T to the old lug but thought this would be a cool project. The T is not load bearing other than the weight of the tail skid in flight.
7215
7216
7217

[Frank Giger]

Fantastic work, as always.

I wouldn't worry too much about getting that leather perfect on the seat. It's going to stretch and move on it's own as one gets in and out of the aircraft, as well as while sitting in it.

The tough part about getting it better is learning where to put the tension to bring out the folds. But you're in great shape - none of the ones shown are where the pilot is putting weight.

I would also suggest taking the seat assembly into the house and sitting in it for at least half an hour. You may find that there is zero lumbar support and your lower back will start to ache.

The funny thing about that is that one will not feel it while flying. But then, after taxi to the hangar, shutting the engine down, pushing the goggles up, one finds they suddenly have a set of minor spasms in their back as one stands up to dismount.

[Fokker Builder]

7283

[Frank Giger]

Sitting in it for awhile will also let you know if you have enough stuff in the rear third of the bottom of the seat. This is the "crush zone," as you'll be wiggling your butt against this part as you work the rudder during taxi.

I'm thinking of pulling mine back out and putting another 1/4 inch of foam there.

[Sam Buchanan]

The blue sleeping bag pad at Walmart makes excellent seat padding. It is 'temper-foam-type" material that is dense enough to not collapse under, uh, heavy load. Just add as many layers as comfort dictates. Here is a photo of the D.VII seats in progress:

7284

Three layers on the seat bottom and one on the back were about right.

[Frank Giger]

Nice. I just bought a memory foam pillow and cut it to size; oddly enough, it was in layers!

[Fokker Builder]

Thanks Frank and Sam,

Sam I learned while building rigid frame custom motorcycles to put soft, open cell foam under a 1/4" layer of either minicell or neoprene foam. The softer under foam acts like a shock absorber.
6/3/18, Finally, a tail wheel bracket I can live with. First is a close up of the final bracket and the second pic is of the entire tail skid and all the failed parts.
I did start messing with those long over due wheel hubs. I hope to be ready to do a mock up on the lacing later this week before I start on the elevator.
7285
7286

[Frank Giger]

I know you've done all the geometry, but that wheel looks awful tilted from the axis of forces.

Are you mostly going to be flying off of grass?

[Fokker Builder]

How can you tell Frank? It's not on the plane yet.

[Frank Giger]

Ideally, one would want the arm holding the wheel vertical to the ground as much as possible.

I guess I'm looking at the mount for the rear support perpendicular to the skid and interpolating the angle, when it's probably going to go forward of that for a steeper angle. I hadn't anticipated the skid coming off of the airplane at a 50 degree angle, which seems pretty aggressive.

I've had some tail wheel woes and just want to keep you from experiencing the same...

[Fokker Builder]

Frank proper tail wheel camber is demonstrated in this sketch. Remember the tail skid flexes, or in my case pivots, which changes the relative camber of the tail wheel pivot. That is why the initial position of the, free camber, set to compensate for the suspension.
7287

[Frank Giger]

Thanks! I suppose I should have known you'd of sussed it all out.

And I didn't say that your wheel on the end of the skid is absolutely brilliant in wondering about geometry.

[Fokker Builder]

Dangit
Well that's not gonna work. I have about a 3* to 5* pitch on the spokes and I actually need a 13* to 15*, better I nail that down to an exact angle. Oh the discouragement of a failure in design and effort. I have about 3 weeks work in the wheels at this point. My suspicion is that I will be making new hubs. I guess I had some foresight when I bought 6' of 5" diameter 6061 T 6 aluminum for the hubs.
7291

[Fokker Builder]

Been working on the elevator. And a pic of the stab for good measure.
7327
7328

[Fokker Builder]

My new fav shirt
7374

[planecrazzzy]

http://www.wingsforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=180&t=4575 (http://www.wingsforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=180&t=4575)



Fantastic work, as always.

I wouldn't worry too much about getting that leather perfect on the seat. It's going to stretch and move on it's own as one gets in and out of the aircraft, as well as while sitting in it.

The tough part about getting it better is learning where to put the tension to bring out the folds. But you're in great shape - none of the ones shown are where the pilot is putting weight.

I would also suggest taking the seat assembly into the house and sitting in it for at least half an hour. You may find that there is zero lumbar support and your lower back will start to ache.

The funny thing about that is that one will not feel it while flying. But then, after taxi to the hangar, shutting the engine down, pushing the goggles up, one finds they suddenly have a set of minor spasms in their back as one stands up to dismount.

[Fokker Builder]

8/21/18, I got a few hours today to layout the ailerons and cut some tubing for the Fokker D VII. I also bent the tip bow for the balancer on the aileron. The extra tubing you see at the top of the pic is for the second aileron. I am short some 6 mm X 0.5 mm wall tubing. I should get out to Winchester next week and pick some up. It was good to get some time on the plane today.
7448

[Fokker Builder]

Been working on the second aileron. Anyone see a hinge or control horn on that spar? Yeah, me neither. The riblet tack welds have been cut off and I just need to clean the spar up and then begin again.
7501

[Frank Giger]

Oops.

Well, at least it's not an overly expensive fix.

[Fokker Builder]

Frank,
I just lost the two shortest riblets and had the material to make the two longer ones. Basically I just removed two and cut out the HAZ of the others and slip them down. One of the diagonals will get the HAZ cut out and re used. I carefully cleaned up the spar and am using that again. Everything is retacked after loading the sundry parts and may have it finished enough for a side by side progress pic Sunday. :cool:

Jim

[Frank Giger]

Good to hear it wasn't major surgery.

I'm impressed with your work - the best I ever did was throwing a bead line down a bit of stock back in High School.

[Fokker Builder]

10/15/18 Yes I started over with a new fuselage Friday. The first one was rather dubious at best. So with much improved welding skills and sticking to gas (oxy/acet) welding Lets get to it.
First pic is of the two new sides and this pic also displays the cleat system I used same as in the very first fuselage. The second side I did start using steel plate shields under the welds and failed to ignite the table top. Bomber idea.7525
Second pic shows a tubing cluster and the degree of notching involved. Those are all hand cut and requires lots of back and forth with test fitting. Oh my feet hurt that night.7526
Third pic shows some welding back where the top longeron does a step down and incidence change for the horizontal stabilizer. The tag end of the longeron there gets trimmed when the welding is all done.7527
Fourth pic is a shot from the front showing the fixture used to mock up both sides of the fuse so that the cross members can be fit and tack welded. And the fifth pic shows the fixture from the rear.75287529

[Fokker Builder]

Pics in a few days

[Frank Giger]

Great!

It's a real statement to your diligence that you could look at your work with an honest eye and realize that there wasn't any fixes to be had, and it required a full do-over.

[Fokker Builder]

This pic shows the end of the fuse after redoing the tail post. I had jammed that in one night and it was very strange the next morning it was crooked. Elves or gremlins me thinks
7554
7555
55 wire loops so far
7556
Cowl hoops, combing, and gun mount stuff welding in this week. Plan to start painting this weekend
7557

[Fokker Builder]

11/9/18, This weeks work after taking two tries at the curvy cowl tubing around the front machine gun mounts and still not happy. So I cut up some of my failed attempts and made the partial cowl supports that are near the adjustable rear gun mounts.
7565
You guys also saw the start of the static front gun mounts that are now completed.
7566
Yesterday I fabbed and welded in the cockpit combing tabs.
7567
And after messing with some other stuff I made the lower wing/fuselage cover. That is the rectangle laying on the work table. The fuselage tabs it bolts to have been drilled but have not been shaped yet. Tomorrow is going to be cold so I may get some time wire wheeling the fuselage in preparation for some epoxy primer if Sunday warms up enough.
7568

[Fokker Builder]

11/25/18 Had some warm weather today so I finish welded the inside of the lower wing mount boxes and bolt carrier slugs and a couple reinforcing tubes where the engine bearer supports weld in and then started priming some 3 stations. I was having trouble with the epoxy going off too quick the last few times so I retarded the flash by decreasing the activator part B. At the end of the day I drilled the holes in the big clusters for these rear cabane cups. They should get welded in tomorrow and a second encapsulating coat of epoxy in this area. Manufacturers directions say if I re-coat within 24 hours I don't have to sand with 220. I likes not sanding.
7587
7588

[Fokker Builder]

A little progress today on the wing spar brackets. First pic is after the first bend on the practice 3 mm thick stock. Guess the form could have been deeper but I am working with 3" wide 3/4" mandrel stock. This pic shows the mandrel completely pressed. Third pic shows that I pulled the mandrel out of the form and placed it on its side in the press. Fourth pic shows I still have a bit of spring back, maybe 3 degrees. The die forms are changeable since the two front spar brackets have this angle and the rear spar brackets have more pronounced angle. Now I have to make the form so that I can bend the ears in the opposite direction so that the brackets can bolt to the fuselage. This material bent very easily in the fixture that was made.
7614
7615
7616
7617

[Fokker Builder]

Progress 12/22/18, first pic shows that I started reassembling the fuselage. Seat, torque tube and control column, rudder bar, panel, cockpit floor, and the firewall mock up. Second pic shows the cockpit mock up poly panel. Some friends in Culpeper that are heavily tweaking an aluminum kit Newpie 28 told me about these poly panels for cowling and turtle deck mock up. I decided to use some of the material for firewall mock up too. Stainless can be tough to work with, better to fo the fidgeting in poly. Third pic shows the new throttle cross bar I made yesterday and I made some new panel brackets as well as you can see in pic 4.
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[planecrazzzy]

Fun stuff , Outstanding
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Gotta Fly...

[Fokker Builder]

Went to Military Aviation museum Friday and got my upper spar/cabane brackets from Canada. Bomber ideas.

Jim

[Fokker Builder]

Welp, finally got the stainless firewall in, had to trim 1/4" off the side. It would have fit the space but there was no way to have gotten it in. Now back out to work on some engine clamps.
7790

[Fokker Builder]

So, not much else going on since I got an injury. Gonna take a while to heal since I tore my hand open down to the tendon. UGH. Here are the upper spar brackets for the D VII I got from John. Beautiful, and there were the last set. I will have to clean up the edges a bit and primer them but they are in a ziplock in my office till then. Score. The lower spar brackets are 90 degree bends which I should be able to handle pretty easily, (already have a working bending fixture that I proofed already) hoping to get back on them once I heal up.
I do owe John lunch when I see him because of a payment snafu. He was very patient while he waited. Thank you again John.
Thanks
Jim7809

[planecrazzzy]

Myself... Since it's aircraft... I would have rounded the edges before Bending it with the Brake.
Since it wasn't... I'd look very close for any micro cracks from the bend.
Especially the over 90 bends...
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Just my too sense....02

Gotta Fly...
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I'm working on my Buttercup with a Popsicle stick taped to my finger...
You'll figure out something to do on the plane... Good time to dig in the books or order parts.

Gotta Fly...

[Frank Giger]

IIRC, these are all mild steel, so the chances of cracks are small.

Hope both y'all are fully repaired soon so you can get back to serious work!

[planecrazzzy]

Any crack at all can Travel...

On a larger scale , I've broke 5/8 steel... Even though I prepped the edges...
When I bent it... It snapped so loud I thought the machine broke.
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I only mentioned it in this case because: aircraft and over 90 bend
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Gotta Fly...

[Fokker Builder]

7821

[Fokker Builder]

Finally got all the engine clamps cleaned up, primed and slipped on the engine bearer tube. Now onward to close up the engine compartment7822