Some suggestions on splitting this sleeve

[Blue Chips]

Need to split these, made from Peek plastic, bore is 3/4" for size reference.

Obviously splitting them would be easy enough but would like them split with as small a kerf as possible, band saw won't get it. A slitting saw may be a solution but then holding them presents a problem once one side gets cut. They will be turned one piece.

Any ideas welcome.

Thanks
Ken

[nrpetersen]

If you have access to a milling machine, there are 3 inch dia slitting cutters as thin as .005 inch, & maybe even thinner. You'd have to hold it by the flanges, or with a saddle type fixture on the outside diameter (not the flange OD diameter. It would be best if the fixture concentrated its support closest to the split surface rather than the ends.

Are you making many?

[Blue Chips]

Have some slitting saws but don't recall any that thin, will have to look.
Only need to make two of these but several other sizes as well. Tried looking to buy but did not find anything.
Can't quite grasp how it would/could be held in a fixture. This stuff is very rigid which is helpful.
I've not been able to come up with anything but using a slitting saw and how best to do that is still hidden from me.

[Blue Chips]

Well, do have a 3" x .010 slitting saw which would work fine, now need to come up with a way to hold it so both sides can be cut as evenly parallel as possible, though as long as they remain in matched pairs that should not present any now unusable issues.

[Aaron Novak]

Well, do have a 3" x .010 slitting saw which would work fine, now need to come up with a way to hold it so both sides can be cut as evenly parallel as possible, though as long as they remain in matched pairs that should not present any now unusable issues.

When I split bearings like that I typically use the slitting (jewelers) saw method. I will mount them on a spud that has been turned to a close fit, with anything from wax to a dissolveable adhesive. Overhang the spud from a proper vise or 3-jaw, slit away then just pop them off the spud. Or the other option if you want zero gap, is to buy twice as many bearings as you need, then mill off half of each bearing.

[Blue Chips]

Thanks Aaron, that may just be a solution.

[martymayes]

Well, do have a 3" x .010 slitting saw which would work fine, now need to come up with a way to hold it so both sides can be cut as evenly parallel as possible, though as long as they remain in matched pairs that should not present any now unusable issues.

I made something similar and to cut it in half, simply clamped the part in a Kurt D 675 vice with the parting line well above the vice jaws (I guess about ~75% of the part was above the jaw line). Once the proper height was set on the "Z" axis (1/2 the part dia + 1/2 cutter thickness), both sides were cut with a thin slitting saw. The finished parts were +/- .002" of each other so the halves were close enough to be interchangeable.

[Aaron Novak]

I made something similar and to cut it in half, simply clamped the part in a Kurt D 675 vice with the parting line well above the vice jaws (I guess about ~75% of the part was above the jaw line). Once the proper height was set on the "Z" axis (1/2 the part dia + 1/2 cutter thickness), both sides were cut with a thin slitting saw. The finished parts were +/- .002" of each other so the halves were close enough to be interchangeable.

I thought that too, until I saw how thin the bearing was.

[Blue Chips]

That would be way too simple, can you complicate it for me? :D

One catch with virtually any solution using a slitting saw is that my arbor using a 3" saw will not permit cutting through both sides, rotating for the second cut is doable but hard to get very precise with out some form of rigid indexing.
Flange OD is 1.200. Maybe making a small as possible arbor would just let me squeak by it's limits.

Sure wish I could find these to purchase, would save a lot of time, kind of hard to believe I haven't seen any really.

The control block that these go in has to be machined as well so there can be some fudge factor in the final size.

[martymayes]

Most of my boring bars and cutter arbors are homemade. Usually to do a specific job. After all, if you can't spend a couple days to build the set up and tooling for a job that takes 3 min, why bother? The task obviously isn't worth the effort. :)

[Blue Chips]

I've spent (read wasted)hours searching/inquiring for these bearings or similar, found some that would make for a very good substitute and inexpensive from Motion Ind. unfortunately, they require a minimum 300 quantity to purchase. They show as singularly available on the website, going to try that and see how far it goes. Strange thing is a inadvertent email quote was received for 80 of them, I sense a rat in the wood pile. Hind sight being 20-20 should have just made them to begin with, they would have been done by now.

So much time is wasted looking, as annoying as the internet is I am very glad for it, seems almost like one can't get along with out it though I built one of these helicopters in the early 70's with no internet, imagine that, no internet......

[Aaron Novak]

I've spent (read wasted)hours searching/inquiring for these bearings or similar, found some that would make for a very good substitute and inexpensive from Motion Ind. unfortunately, they require a minimum 300 quantity to purchase. They show as singularly available on the website, going to try that and see how far it goes. Strange thing is a inadvertent email quote was received for 80 of them, I sense a rat in the wood pile. Hind sight being 20-20 should have just made them to begin with, they would have been done by now.

So much time is wasted looking, as annoying as the internet is I am very glad for it, seems almost like one can't get along with out it though I built one of these helicopters in the early 70's with no internet, imagine that, no internet......

Usually I have found its easier to just make what I need. So much time can be wasted trying to make something"work" :)

[Jim Hardin]

Maybe I missed it, but with a flange on both ends your 'kerf' must equal the flange width+ unless you intend to build the hole around the bushing???

[Blue Chips]

Don't follow you Jim.

[Aaron Novak]

Don't follow you Jim.

Me either

[Jim Hardin]

Don't follow you Jim.


Me either

First! When I replied, Blue Chips image in post #9 was not visible to me. Sooo without that extra info, I thought you were asking to install a double flanged bushing into a hole which is impossible since the flange exceeds the diameter of the hole :rollseyes:

Now that I see how you are doing it I think you are over complicating it???

I would paint or use a permanent marker on the flange to 'match mark' before I cut it with a hand held Dremel cutoff wheel.

The cut is thin and this way every wavy deviation will match just as well as well as any other method short of machining 2 bushings.

[Blue Chips]

Now that I see how you are doing it I think you are over complicating it???

Now that is one area where I need no instruction.:D

Been a good thread and it is very doable several ways as mentioned here.


Thanks

[Blue Chips]

For others information if it may be needed or of use.
Motion Industries did not come through (after 10 days) but was able to locate an alternative through http://www.igus.com/
They also have UK distribution at http://www.igus.co.uk/

Ordered 1", 3/4 and 1/2 bore
http://www.igus.com/wpck/3727/iglidur_clips2?C=US&L=en

No lubrication required, can be made non-rotatable if need be with a drop of Loctite Prism 480.
Excellent specifications for control bearings and available in numerous inch and metric sizes.

They beat you up a bit on shipping but the prices are very inexpensive, cant even begin to spend the time machining for what all these cost.