Box & Pan Brake

[Mike Switzer]

I am in need of a box & pan brake. I used to have access to a shop with a 12' brake, but not anymore.

I have done some searching online, and I am suspicious of the quality of some of these units. Also, I am not sure how big of a unit is enough. I know I don't need anything near as big as the 12' unit I was using, since I'm not planning on making any grain chutes or HVAC ducts, but I think the 24" units may be too small.

I want to use it to make oil pans, fuel tanks, etc.

Anyone have any thoughts on reasonably priced decent quality units, or what size is "big enough"?

[Sam Buchanan]

I am in need of a box & pan brake. I used to have access to a shop with a 12' brake, but not anymore.

I have done some searching online, and I am suspicious of the quality of some of these units. Also, I am not sure how big of a unit is enough. I know I don't need anything near as big as the 12' unit I was using, since I'm not planning on making any grain chutes or HVAC ducts, but I think the 24" units may be too small.

I want to use it to make oil pans, fuel tanks, etc.

Anyone have any thoughts on reasonably priced decent quality units, or what size is "big enough"?

If you have a Harbor Freight store close by you might check this out:

http://www.harborfreight.com/garage-shop/metal-shaping-equipment/30-inch-shear-press-brake-and-slip-roll-5907.html

I've used one and it seems to be a decent value for the non-professional shop.

[martymayes]

I agree with Sam, the Harbor Freight and comparable stuff at Tractor Supply, et al, is adequate if you have patience.

If you want to move up a couple steps in quality (and price), check out http://www.woodwardfab.com/sheet_metal_bending_tools.htm

Mostly cater to car guys but I am very impressed wth their tools.

[Mike Switzer]

Hmm.. Those 3 in one machines look interesting. The ones further down on the Woodward page are more like what I am used to using, but I can't justify spending anywhere near that much for no more than I will use it - and my shop is only so big.

[Tom Downey]

I have a three way machine, they are a POS, the fingers on the brake will never give a smooth bend, the bent metal will always show a divot at each segment of the brake. Unless you pad the brake with .032 on each side the break will produce a bend too tight (radius too small) and crack T-3 every time.

[Mike Switzer]

Thanks, Tom that tells me something.

I would like to find a heavier (older) machine at an auction, but if I don't I may consider this one (I don't really need the shear or roller for what I want to do)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HCK-WFBP4816/

[martymayes]

Thanks, Tom that tells me something.

I would like to find a heavier (older) machine at an auction, but if I don't I may consider this one (I don't really need the shear or roller for what I want to do)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HCK-WFBP4816/

Some of the older tools that have seen a lot of use require as much "patience" as he current crop of discount tools.

I think you'll be satisfied with Woodward tools, even if it buy them through Summit.

[Tom Downey]

Grizzly has a full line of sheet metal tools also, quality is mediocre, and all finger brakes will need a pad to stop the edges of the fingers from leaving a divot.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/category/520010

[WLIU]

You do not need an expensive and talented bending brake if you bring some planning and patience into the equation.

Each type of material has a different minimum bend radius. What I have done is the following:

A) cut a number of strips of thin material
B) Number the strips
C) Put the first one into the jaws of the brake with minimum set back. Bend maybe 135 degrees. You now have a small radius. Leave the strip in the brake.
D) Adjust the jaws of the brake back to accommodate bending another strip around the first. Bend. You now have a set of two strips with increasing radii.
E) Again adjust the jaws of the brake back to accommodate bending another strip around the ones already in place. Insert another strip, bend, repeat until you have enough radius options for the parts that you intend to make.

Having a set of radius strips allows you to quickly get the bend radius that you want. And for extra credit you can write the set back that each one needs on the part you will bend, right on each radius strip.

Having a set of radius strips allows you to borrow or beg time on a friend's bending brake, or save some $$ by buying a less expensive used or new brake.

I will note that borrowing time on another builder's, a friendly mechanic's or an EAA chapter's tools is part of the social experience of building. Building can get pretty lonely.....

Hope this helps,

Wes
N78PS

[Bob Dingley]

I signed up for metal working at the Community College. There were several brakes among all the many, many other tools. My first emotion was that it would be nice to own many of these tools, but my shop is only 24 X 30.
Bob

[CraigCantwell]

Mike: This might give you some good ideas:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Ey5DHMYLZg

[Tom Downey]

You do not need an expensive and talented bending brake if you bring some planning and patience into the equation.

Each type of material has a different minimum bend radius. What I have done is the following:

A) cut a number of strips of thin material
B) Number the strips
C) Put the first one into the jaws of the brake with minimum set back. Bend maybe 135 degrees. You now have a small radius. Leave the strip in the brake.
D) Adjust the jaws of the brake back to accommodate bending another strip around the first. Bend. You now have a set of two strips with increasing radii.
E) Again adjust the jaws of the brake back to accommodate bending another strip around the ones already in place. Insert another strip, bend, repeat until you have enough radius options for the parts that you intend to make.

Having a set of radius strips allows you to quickly get the bend radius that you want. And for extra credit you can write the set back that each one needs on the part you will bend, right on each radius strip.

Having a set of radius strips allows you to borrow or beg time on a friend's bending brake, or save some $$ by buying a less expensive used or new brake.

I will note that borrowing time on another builder's, a friendly mechanic's or an EAA chapter's tools is part of the social experience of building. Building can get pretty lonely.....

Hope this helps,

Wes
N78PS

Wes, you reinforce my point, these cheap presses won't do the job as bought.

[Tom Downey]

point to remember, these three way machines are a press brake, they are not bending brakes. they have their advantages but they will not do what a open bending brake will do.

[Mike Switzer]

point to remember, these three way machines are a press brake, they are not bending brakes. they have their advantages but they will not do what a open bending brake will do.

Yea, I figured that out watching one of the woodward videos. All I have ever used is an open bending brake, I know it will do what I want. Some of the online reviews of the cheaper units are putting me off though. For something like my steel oil pan a few minor imperfections wouldn't be a big deal, but my fuel tanks & coolant tanks will be aluminum. I'm going to be using it for some other projects down the road also.

[pmiracing]

We have several box and pan brakes to choose from in different sizes and capacities. We also have Shear Brake Combo Machines that feature a apron brake and shear in one machine. Check all these machines at www.bodybuilderraceequipment.com (http://www.bodybuilderraceequipment.com)

[Sam Buchanan]

Yes, premium quality tools are a pleasure to work with, don't think anyone will argue that point. But there are situations where discount priced tools are functional and a good value when they will be lightly or seldom used.

I built an original design fuel tank for my Legal Eagle. It is a complex tank, lots of weird angles that must be correct for the thing to fit together properly:

http://eaglexl-58.com/tank-9.jpg

It was essential I have a bending brake in my shop for this project even though I seldom need a brake. The most practical option was an inexpensive Harbor Freight brake:

http://eaglexl-58.com/tank-14.jpg

This brake certainly won't win any precision-tool awards, and it requires some finesse and patience to get dialed in to get the results needed. But it worked well for the tank project and didn't bust the budget. Matter of fact, the price was low enough that even if I never need it again it was worthwhile for just the one tank project. Interestingly, I have used it several times since and I now consider it totally amortized and a useful addition to the shop.

The purists will sniff at these inexpensive tools, but that's ok, my Eagle fuel tank has been flying for two summers. The difference in cost between the Harbor Freight brake and a "better" one has funded the fuel for those two summers. :)

[Mike Switzer]

Sam, that same brake is available at our local farm store at a very reasonable price, and I thought about getting one, but there is no way to form all 4 sides of a box or pan without the fingers.

Did you just design your tank so it could be made 3 sides at a time & then fasten it together?

[Sam Buchanan]

Sam, that same brake is available at our local farm store at a very reasonable price, and I thought about getting one, but there is no way to form all 4 sides of a box or pan without the fingers.

Did you just design your tank so it could be made 3 sides at a time & then fasten it together?

Each side is an individual piece. It was designed with external flanges so no rivets penetrate the tank. The simple brake easily handled all the bends and flanges. The crazy angles would have made for some ridiculously difficult layouts if three sides were one piece. Flamemaster sealant (same as used on RVs) was used to seal everything up and it has been leak-proof so far. More details here:

http://eaglexl-58.com/tank.htm

[FlyingRon]

I disagree with you Marty. Harbor Freight is by and large cheap junk and while if it works, it can be a very good deal, TRACTOR SUPPLY sells top notch usually name brand stuff. I buy all of my airtools at Tractor Supply and it's a good deal. Sort of in between is Northern Tool if you have one near by.