2 Place with the MOST baggage space/useful load?

[uavmx]

As the title states, what's the best options out there for a 2 (could be 4, but I think the budget puts a hamper on that) place experimental with a lot of space for baggage? (Think broken down bicycle, ski tube, etc)

Top end of the budget $50k

[Todd copeland]

Project or flying? If you are open to a project, it's hard to beat the glastar for your stated needs. You could easily finish a second hand kit and have a nice airplane for under fifty thousand. If you want one already flying for that you wouldn't find a very nice one. It would fit your criteria though.Todd

[uavmx]

flying, or close to flying. Needing to be finished would work. I can't seem to find many specs on the glastar.

[Todd copeland]

http://www.glasairaviation.com/. You can find specs and links on their website to learn more about the glastar. The current version, the sportsman would also fill the bill for you but it will definitely be out of your budget range. Good luck in the hunt.

[Flyfalcons]

A Murphy Rebel is probably pretty high up there too. Very utilitarian airplane. I have checked out the Rebel when deciding what kit to build, and have helped build a Super Rebel, and they seem to be fine planes.

http://www.pattersonaerosales.com/Aircraft/Rebel/Rebel.html

[Mike M]

As the title states, what's the best options out there for a 2 (could be 4, but I think the budget puts a hamper on that) place experimental with a lot of space for baggage? (Think broken down bicycle, ski tube, etc)

Top end of the budget $50k

there's a flying BD-4 on barnstormers asking price $35k. take out the two back seats.

[steveinindy]

My vote if you want something reliable, go for a Murphy. I have no personal experience with them but I have never heard a single complaint about them and given how much pilots like to gripe, that should tell you something.

[Jim Clark]

Are you looking for experimental because you want to build or are you looking to purchase a flying airplane? If you want to go flying I would recommend a Piper Pacer or TriPacer. Certified as 4 place but when you remove the back seat, which is designed to come out, you've got a 2 place with plenty of baggage easily accessed. You can buy nice examples under 30k.

[uavmx]

BD-4's seem to fit the bill nicely. 3 place aircraft, plenty of space, especially if you take the seat out....not a bad choic.


Are you looking for experimental because you want to build or are you looking to purchase a flying airplane? If you want to go flying I would recommend a Piper Pacer or TriPacer. Certified as 4 place but when you remove the back seat, which is designed to come out, you've got a 2 place with plenty of baggage easily accessed. You can buy nice examples under 30k.

Want an experimental to enjoy the more lax rules, save some $ vs certified and have a full blown EFIS for a reasonable cost. Not against finishing a project, or buying one flying. Already have a G35 Bonanza, so looking to down size a bit on cost, mx costs, and get an EFIS.

[steveinindy]

Want an experimental to enjoy the more lax rules

In what sense?

[Frank Giger]

I think he's talking about modifications like changing the panel (going from steam gauges to glass), engine, etc. Assuming it's not E-LSA, of course.

If one builds it, the repairman certificate is worth a lot of money! One can repair stuff on one's own and sign off on it, such as fabric, replacing a windshield, and the annuals.

The standards aren't any more lax - best practices and AD's* still apply - but one can do them on one's own schedule! And major modifications will push one back to Phase I testing, of course, but that's part of the normal process and clearly defined.

Similarly, running an engine past TBO that is still sound (compression, etc.) is much easier, as one doesn't have to fuss with an A&P at annual time.

I write that knowing that I'll be on very good terms with our local A&P for help and assistance as well as a second, well trained set of eyes to keep me honest on airworthiness.

* While it's true that Experimentals can for the most part ignore AD's, it's not a good idea.

[uavmx]

in the sense of configuration....mostly the avionics. A little more freedom to set up the aircraft how you want it. I'm an A&P/IA so the MX costs aren't much of a concern, although there would be some opportunities to use "cheaper" non certified parts.

[steveinindy]

in the sense of configuration....mostly the avionics. A little more freedom to set up the aircraft how you want it. I'm an A&P/IA so the MX costs aren't much of a concern, although there would be some opportunities to use "cheaper" non certified parts.Ah...that's what I figured. I am trying to find a way to get my A&P.

[Eric Witherspoon]

If one builds it, the repairman certificate is worth a lot of money! One can repair stuff on one's own and sign off on it, such as fabric, replacing a windshield, and the annuals.

Frank,
Your posting appears unclear to me. Homebuilt maintenance is open to ANYONE, no cert. required. The RC for E-AB ONLY allows the holder to sign for the condition inspection on the airplane. That's it. Anyone could be doing the modifications, repairs, maintenance, etc.

So if uavmx buys an already-flying homebuilt - they can do the modifications, repairs, maintenance all on their own. But they either need to be A&P themselves, or get one to look it over 1x / year and sign for a "condition inspection". (And consult the ops lims for what mods are reportable to the FSDO.)

[uavmx]

If one builds it, the repairman certificate is worth a lot of money! One can repair stuff on one's own and sign off on it, such as fabric, replacing a windshield, and the annuals.


The "annual" that you're talking about is a yearly conditional inspection. Which has to be signed off by an A&P. Can the conditional inspection be signed off with a repairmen cert??


Ah...that's what I figured. I am trying to find a way to get my A&P.

Yeah, it's not easy, there's no way around the amount of time is required to get it. Gotta put your time in. Best bet is just find a junior college that has a program and sign up, it will take you two years.

[Matt Gonitzke]

Yeah, it's not easy, there's no way around the amount of time is required to get it. Gotta put your time in. Best bet is just find a junior college that has a program and sign up, it will take you two years.

I'll be doing that this fall. I hope I can survive working full time and then going to class for 6 hours 5 days a week for two years...:eek:

[Auburntsts]

Can the conditional inspection be signed off with a repairmen cert??

Yes, but only by the holder of the repairman's cert for that particular airframe which will be the original bulder, or in the case of a group build whomever the group decides to nominate to apply for the cert (there can only be one cert issued per airframe). Since E-AB repairmen cert's are only vaild for one specific airframe, a holder can't sign off on his friend's plane even if it's the same make or model. If you bought it flying from someone, the condition inspection has to be performed by an A&P (note IA not required) or the holder of the repairman's cert if they are willing to do it (doubtful).

[uavmx]

I'll be doing that this fall. I hope I can survive working full time and then going to class for 6 hours 5 days a week for two years...:eek:

Yeah, I was working nearly full time (by the time you figure how much time I spent commuting, 45 mins between school and work) I was pretty much doing full time and school for two years. Not easy, caused some health issues, but got through it.

Even though I'm not sure I will be working as an A&P forever, it's still nice to know I have it, it doesn't expire and I will always be able to own an aircraft for cheap.

[Frank Stankiewicz]

I fly a Glastar and i belive it fits this need perfictly. 125 knots,8 galons per hour,and great visability to boot. At a value of $50,000, its a winner

[BMW rider]

I'm with those who recommended the Murphy Rebel. I don't know what you want to carry but very good useful load and, often more important storage length availability. A surf rod or skis can be easily accommodated. The Rebel is actually big enough for many people to sleep in the fuselage rear. At least take a look at one.
Ralph

[deej]

The Glastar specs can be found at: http://www.glasairaviation.com/glastarspecs.html

A few are for sale on Barnstormers: http://barnstormers.com/Experimental,%20Glastar%20Classifieds.htm

You can get a decent basic VFR one that is flying for under $50k. If you want more fancy stuff like a C/S prop, glass panel, there are some that have sold for under $65k in the past year or so.

Beautiful airplane. If you haven't flown one, you owe it to yourself to get a ride in one before making your decision.

-Dj

[WWhunter]

I went through a similar dilema many years ago and made a list of all my needs/wants and the pros and cons of what was available at the time. The Murphy Rebel always came out on top. The Glastar was one of the contenders but its finished price was nearly double for a gain of a few mph but not much else. This was for MY needs and what I had decided was important for a cost basis.
I ended up buying a Rebel kit. I started in and have yet to finish. Life happens and numerous military moves led me to store it until I am finally settled.
I also purchased a damaged Rebel that has a Subaru conversion I am selling. I have some of the parts to repair it and think it could be put back into the air within a couple of months by someone knowing what they are doing. :)

[rawheels]

Some of the larger Kitfox models (5-7) should be considered. Even the model 4 (IV-1200, classic) has a pretty good useful load (~600 lbs) if your looking for LSA.