Hangar DOOR

[EDGEFLY]

Good topic for the "Hangar Talk" group, nay ?I am considering construction of a hangar for an SEL which will be an addition to an existing building (a barn) on my property where I have room for a grass strip. The envelope of the subject aircraft is 40 ft wing span by 26 ft length from tip of spinner to top of rudder with maximum static height of 10 ft. I am interested in any members' experience in hangar door structures which would be applicable to this need. I have seen several ranging from nothing (open air) to overhead hydraulic to sliding vertical supports to overhead folding etc. Each works in its' own application but, since I am more interested in putting $ into the aircraft than fancy doors, I seek your views on possibilities which may be cost-effective and suitable. The location is Northern Pa. which has some amount of snow but not much concern for salt corrosion nor hurricanes. Wildlife invasion could be a problem but can be managed otherwise.Thank you for your input.EDGEFLY

[steveinindy]

My suggestion would be the simplest system that can be locked and is the easiest to manage by yourself. In most cases that's a pair of doors that slide out parallel to the front of the barn. It's not the most efficient use of space (because of the lateral extension), but it's a lot easier than trying to swing a standard "hinge" door of 200+ square feet in even a light breeze.

I speak from my own experience (and bruises) because I grew up across the road from a dairy farm and used to help out over there and they had such an arrangement. I ended up leaving the sort of mark only a groundskeeper can fully appreciate when a moderate gust caught the door and swung it with sufficient force to toss me a good ten feet across the barnyard. Before anyone else beats me to the obvious question: No I did not land on my head. ;)

The next best option would probably be the overhead "garage" style door but for something big enough for an airplane, I can't imagine that would be anything but pricey.

[FlyingRon]

I've got a Schweis horizontal bifold in NC The local garage door guy hung it without issues (he now goes around to residential airparks as an "expert" in hangar doors).

My hangar in VA has sliding hanging (barn style) doors. Of course it doesn't seal well so I get all sorts of dirt, grass clippings, etc...into the hangar.

[nrpetersen]

Arrange it so the door faces SW to minimize ice & snow buildup etc.

I'd suggest spending the $ for a bifold door if for no other reason than to complete the structural box of a hangar whenever the door is closed & latched.

The hydraulically operated doors that I've seen put some tremendous forces into the structure during the door opening cycle that would be much better handled with a cable operated bifold door. However, if you do go bifold, be sure that the forces imposed on the structure during and after the door operating cycle are adequately reacted.

Also be sure the hangar structure be able to react wind loads when the door is open. If necessary, make a cardboard model, push on it gently, & you'll see what I mean.

MnEngr (retired)

[malexander]

Horton Stack door. That's what I have. My hangar is 60 X 72 X 14' walls, 50' X 12' high door. My brother & I hung the door ourselves in about 2 hrs. start to finish.

[Joe LaMantia]

My only experience is with the "slider" type Steve described, the only trouble I've had with them is the top rails fill with slush, and can ice up in winter. Makes for a bit of work when trying to get the plane out in those cold clear days when VFR flying is possible. If money is no object, then go for the push button. The Horton Stack door is a nice solution for a big slider.

Joe
:cool:

[clipwingcub]

Cool-Air doors. They have several different models. When I put mine on (bi-fold), that was the only model they offered. I am very happy with the choice, and value.

Tony

[Bruce_H]

I'll add my vote for the Horton Stack door, or a similar home-made folding geometry with hinges vertical. The only power required is you, and no heavy hardware to fall if a cable breaks. One suggestion: if you fold the doors open so the inner hinges come together, they can bend in a wind and damage the hanging hardware. Have a post to fasten them to when fully open. For partial opening, drill some holes in the horizontal beams near the inner hinges and make a bar with bent-down ends to fit in the holes, separating the inner hinges by a foot or so. This makes a triangle when the doors are partially open, stabilizing them against the wind.

[kscessnadriver]

Anyone with experience on those roll up fabric type doors? They seem to be starting to gain some attraction now.

[BCAIRPORT]

My first hanger was rented and open. Built my own light weight roll up fabric door (usesd blue tarp material). Simple concept. Kept the weather out and slowed the critters.
Own my own hangers today on my RLA in N IL and designed and built my own horizontal BI-Folds. Close up tight and wieght is not a structural problem if you plan the building for the door. Most of the HYD horz. swing up doors have their own frame stricture to take the weight of the door and apperatus. Prices for all, reasonable when you consider how many years and times you will cycle the door. I am willing to explain the roll-up if interested or own design bi-fold.

[LostUpNorth]

Depending on how much snow and ice you get, the direction the door faces can be critical. If possible face it to the south. I have an eastern exposure and I get ice building up in front of my door all the time. I hate it. Beyond that be careful about the scissor / slide out doors depending on the ground in PA. I have one of those. Here it's clay. As in... you can dig it up and turn it into a vase. No matter what I do, those support posts on the outside heave up every year. Sink them 10 feet and they'll still heave up.

Anyhow, there are a couple of inexpensive manual door options (at least compared to the hydraulic versions) but I can't find links to them. Most companies that make hangars also have some kind of manual door option too so given the cost of shipping it's in your best interest to look for someone local.

Another inexpensive option is a homemade door that is counter weighted. I no longer have the link to the design but I'll try to describe it to the best of my ability. The door had a center beam running horizontally across the door exactly mid way up. So if it's a 12' tall door, the beam would be at 6' and run the width of the door. The door is just a welded rectangle but the trick was that there were five eye bolts connected to that center beam. Five steel cables went up, over some pulleys and through holes in the exterior of the hangar. The pulleys were mounted just above the main beam across the door entrance. Once inside, the cables were routed via pulleys to a single steel ring which had two more cables running to the back of the hangar that were attached to a counter weight. The counter weight was slightly less than the entire door weight. The design I saw then had another cable attached to a boat winch which was used to raise and lower the door. Now here's the trick. Since those five cables are essentially "lifting" the entire weight of the door, all they used to guide the door back into the hangar was standard garage door track. When the door is open, exactly half the door is inside the hangar and half is outside the hangar. There's no massive front loading like there is with a bifold or swing out hydraulic door. It's sort of a poor man's version of www.hpdoors.com

Good luck

[steve]

We installed a 45' wide x 10' tall one piece door lifted by 2 Schweiss hydro cylinders. It's heavy so the hangar structure (header, front walls, side walls and footings) must be stout enough to support the door. It faces south so ice and snow pose no problems.

[baflyboy2]

I am so glad I bought Horton Stacked door!  Live in North Georgia. Reasons why best door:
- I can open any number of panels and leave the rest closed. Allows car or tractor in/out but keeps weather out.
- They are translucent, letting lots of light in. No additional cost on installation of windows/panels on hangar structure.
- I can fully open my doors faster than electric or hydro neighbors. They roll with one finger.
- They ALWAYS open, even when power is out!
- Less exposure or possible damage from wind while open.
- Can be reasonably weather tight, especially if you use above ground rail.
- Doors standard height is 12 foot, controls cost. Less cost than other powered door options.
- No costly header structure on full length opening. (As req'd for pwr doors)
- Least maintenance/upkeep of any door out there.
- Save money by installing yourself, very easy to do.

The only negatives I can come up with:
- They don't offer overhead shade or rain cover when open.
- They do require more effort than just pushing a button.
- you have to plan extra width for opening (But so little more!)
- enough ice could require lots of effort to remove before opening.

Don't forget, airplanes can move diagonally in and out of hangars! I don't work for the company nor have any relationship with them. But I wear their hat, because I think everyone should know how good these doors are.

[Joe Elfar]

Im in GA and recently replaced an old wilson bifold with a hydraulic door from aerodoor. they were in florida and came up here to install it. www.aero-door.com (http://www.aero-door.com)

think they do bifolds as well but i wanted this one.

[misterwhite]

Yesterday i was trying to use this fabric door (http://barduva.eu/en/products/fabric-hangar-doors/) company services, today they come to my hangar, measured it, and they promises to me that next weekend i will get my doors? Is it fast or not?

[Anymouse]

Another vote for Schweiss Bi-Fold doors!!

http://www.bifold.com/

[cub builder]

Another inexpensive option is a homemade door that is counter weighted. I no longer have the link to the design but I'll try to describe it to the best of my ability. The door had a center beam running horizontally across the door exactly mid way up. So if it's a 12' tall door, the beam would be at 6' and run the width of the door. The door is just a welded rectangle but the trick was that there were five eye bolts connected to that center beam. Five steel cables went up, over some pulleys and through holes in the exterior of the hangar. The pulleys were mounted just above the main beam across the door entrance. Once inside, the cables were routed via pulleys to a single steel ring which had two more cables running to the back of the hangar that were attached to a counter weight. The counter weight was slightly less than the entire door weight. The design I saw then had another cable attached to a boat winch which was used to raise and lower the door. Now here's the trick. Since those five cables are essentially "lifting" the entire weight of the door, all they used to guide the door back into the hangar was standard garage door track. When the door is open, exactly half the door is inside the hangar and half is outside the hangar. There's no massive front loading like there is with a bifold or swing out hydraulic door. It's sort of a poor man's version of www.hpdoors.com (http://www.hpdoors.com)

Good luck

Someone at Oshkosh used to sell the plans to this home made door. I built one of these for each of my hangars and have seen others like them all over the country. The door to my smaller hangar is 9' H x 40' W. The larger one is is 10 1/2' H x 48' W. I've got photos of the larger door on my web site (http://www.jeffsplanes.com/Hangar/Hangar.html). Both doors have been proven themselves to be quite rugged and require very little maintenance. It took me the better part of a week to build the larger door featured on my web site. The smaller 9x40 door was quite a bit easier and only required about half the amount of counterweight.

This type of door does require a good enough frame on the front of the hangar to support a few hundred pounds, but this door is significantly lighter and less expensive than the commercial doors like the Schweiss.

With the door facing south, the smoke colored lexan panels provide not only light, but reasonable heat during the winter months. When the sun is on them during the winter, they generally radiate at roughly 80 - 85° making it reasonably comfortable to work on the plane during winter days without heating the hangar.

-Cub Builder