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Thread: DIY remote switch

  1. #1

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    Feb 2012
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    DIY remote switch

    I rigged this up to preheat my C172. It seems to do well but I hate having to run to the airport to plug it in so usually end up using my Red Dragon. I know you can purchase cellular switches but they seem expensive. Any DIY options?

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  2. #2

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    What do you consider expensive? This switch is $115 and works well for me. It does require a cell plan which costs me $3/month.

    https://www.amazon.com/GSM%E2%80%91A...%2C169&sr=8-26

  3. #3
    steve's Avatar
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    I've used one of these to turn on my milk house heater back when I owned my Tri-Pacer. Cost is $13 at Ho De.
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Intermat...311K/205478760

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle Boatright View Post
    What do you consider expensive? This switch is $115 and works well for me. It does require a cell plan which costs me $3/month.
    I'll check that one out! That price is less than half of what I was finding.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by steve View Post
    I've used one of these to turn on my milk house heater back when I owned my Tri-Pacer. Cost is $13 at Ho De.
    I have one of those. They worked great when I kept the plane 5 minutes away from where I work. But now I'm 25 minutes away so even this requires an extra trip for me.

  6. #6

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    The GSM remote switch that Kyle shows is a little on the expensive side. The switch cannot operate the outlet directly, you also need a relay. See the December, 2019 issue of Sport Aviation, page 122 for a DIY GSM remote switch that is controlled by sending it a text. The RTU5024 remote switch cost $17.49 and the SSR-25 DA relay cost $3.95, both on eBay. The power supply, outlet, and a box in which to mount the relay were laying around the house and workshop. Not sure if the relay really requires a box, if you have an electrician friend it might be a good idea to ask. We use the same type of heater as in Jasstech's photo with a blanket thrown over the top of the cowling of our PA-12 and the duct hanging on the engine mount in the bottom of the cowl where the cooling air escapes.

    Bob
    Last edited by Capt Bob; 11-12-2020 at 09:28 PM.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Capt Bob View Post
    The GSM remote switch that Kyle shows is a little on the expensive side. The switch cannot operate the outlet directly, you also need a relay.
    Bob
    The switch I linked has a built in relay and works as-is.

  8. #8
    Whatever you decide to use please consider mounting your heater up off the floor. Gas fumes are heavier than the surrounding air. A heater at ground level could become an ignition source should your aircraft or a aircraft in an adjoining hangar ever develop a gas leak.

  9. #9
    Airmutt's Avatar
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    In Oct 1970 Lockheed Georgia lost C-5A SN 0001 (AF 66-8303) due to somewhat similar circumstances. Except in this case the heater duct was placed in a fuel tank. Prior to taking a break the crew shutdown the heater. During the break the fuel vapors migrated back down the heater duct. When the crew returned they fired up the heater. The resulting explosion blew the wing off and the aircraft “rolled over”.
    Dave Shaw
    EAA 67180 Lifetime
    Learn to Build, Build to Fly, Fly for Fun

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Airmutt View Post
    In Oct 1970 Lockheed Georgia lost C-5A SN 0001 (AF 66-8303) due to somewhat similar circumstances. Except in this case the heater duct was placed in a fuel tank. Prior to taking a break the crew shutdown the heater. During the break the fuel vapors migrated back down the heater duct. When the crew returned they fired up the heater. The resulting explosion blew the wing off and the aircraft “rolled over”.
    I remember that from when I was a little kid. You could see the dark smoke plume from 10 miles away.

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