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Thread: Best Way to Re-Create an Amphorphous Blob

  1. #11
    vondeliusc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwanttaja View Post
    Kind of a pain when it ran out of filament ~8 hours into it. I had it running overnight, and came in the next morning to see the object half-done with the printer still printing in the air an inch above it (there's no sensor that shuts it off when the filament's out).

    Ron Wanttaja
    Ron-
    I feel your pain:
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    In my case the printer lost steps and happily kept printing until morning when the filament ran out :-)
    Thanks for the info.
    And thanks your wife for a cool printer.

    -Christian

  2. #12
    rwanttaja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vondeliusc View Post
    Ron-
    I feel your pain:
    Argghhh! Can you coil it back up? :-)

    My office (where the printer is at) shares a wall with the master bedroom, so that gives me another reason to NOT do overnight printing. My wife has commented on waking up early in the morning and hearing "music". It's the 3D printer plodding along. So I now spend my late evenings getting everything ready, and cranking up the printer in the morning.

    I didn't realize *until today* that the Dremel Slicer actually does a print-time estimate. So that'll help in the future.

    Did my largest single piece yesterday, took 13 and a half hours to print.

    Ron Wanttaja

  3. #13
    FlyingRon's Avatar
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    I'm imagining a device you can dump all your 3d print screwups into and it chews it up and extrudes out a new spool of filament.

  4. #14
    rwanttaja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingRon View Post
    I'm imagining a device you can dump all your 3d print screwups into and it chews it up and extrudes out a new spool of filament.
    Kinda like this famous scene from "Catch-22"....


    Ron Wanttaja

  5. #15
    rwanttaja's Avatar
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    Well, here's the "amorphous blob" integrated into the main project. This is a full-scale, non-fireable wooden/plastic replica of a WWI Lewis Gun. Picture was taken during the final fit check prior to finishing. The main receiver, the barrel, and the gas tube (below the barrel) are wood, nearly everything else was drawn in Solidworks and printed on my 3D printer. I've learned a LOT on how to run Solidworks, now, though I've still got a long way to go.


    BTW, a "Quaker" in armaments lingo is a dummy wooden gun. Hence the logo.

    The drum is from a commercial kit sold by https://www.foxflier.com/lewis/, although I did my own handle.

    Hardest part is getting a metallic sheen on the wood and plastic. In the past, I've painted it gloss black and then sprayed it with matte finish. A product called "Rub N Buff" can be used on corners to simulate wear...that's on the drum, in fact.

    Ron "Odd little quarantine project" Wanttaja

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingRon View Post
    I'm imagining a device you can dump all your 3d print screwups into and it chews it up and extrudes out a new spool of filament.
    As I understand it this has been done:

  7. #17
    rwanttaja's Avatar
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    And...project completed. Learned a lot about Solidworks this way.
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    It's about three pounds of wood and plastic.

    Ron Wanttaja
    Last edited by rwanttaja; 05-19-2020 at 06:57 PM.

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