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Thread: Size TIG Torch?

  1. #1

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    Size TIG Torch?

    Im picking up again on my Legal Eagle build project. I had been resolved to the fact that I'd gas weld it. I put many many hours in practicing. All the rod choices tried etc.

    But I thought I might try to put a bunch of hours in practicing TIG and see if Id use it or at least for some parts seperate from the fuselage. And at the very least I thought it might be convenient for tacking. My gripe so far with Tig is I feel its harder to manipulate the torch.

    What size are others using? Anyone using one of the micro sized torches. Im using a 9 right now. Im sure its doable but thought Id see if anyone can say a micro torch made a big difference for them.

    Thanks

    John

  2. #2
    cwilliamrose's Avatar
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    Our 'normal' TIG torch is a WP-20. We have a larger one, mainly for welding thick aluminum. There are times when the 20 seems too large but that's rare. We do have the short back cap option installed so there's not so much sticking out of the top of the torch.
    Last edited by cwilliamrose; 02-11-2019 at 09:19 AM.

  3. #3

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    Am I right that a 20 is the same size as a 9. 20 being water cooled and 9 air. Also, I just had a good time welding up some shelf brackets. Went well. When i returned to my tubing practice I realized how much arc wander the tubing is giving me. I have a sharp 1/16 ceriated electrode. im set at 40 amps. Using about 12 cfm with a stubby gad lense. Ground is good. Im using a 6 cup. All i can think of is arc length.

    Going to switch to the small cap.

    Thank you for replying.

  4. #4
    cwilliamrose's Avatar
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    I think you're correct on the torch size but I have never used an air cooled torch.

    The tip of the tungsten needs to be very close to the puddle but not too close or things go dark. Was your material and filler rod clean before you started?

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by cwilliamrose View Post
    I think you're correct on the torch size but I have never used an air cooled torch.

    The tip of the tungsten needs to be very close to the puddle but not too close or things go dark. Was your material and filler rod clean before you started?
    Pretty clean. Made shiny with a small belt sander and wiped with acetone. Wire, Er70s-2, too. I do need to find a better way to clean inside. right now just with a wire brush but its not shiny.

    ill try setting my stickout such that i can use the cup to hold a tighter arc. right now im shaking a bit. that bothers me but i think its because im death gripping the torch and i need to cut the filler rods in half. Can shaking be improved or is that a problem.

  6. #6
    cwilliamrose's Avatar
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    I used to be able to weld without hand rests. No more. My hands are not steady enough any more. I always have something to rest my hands or arms on before starting a bead -- that's both hands most of the time.

    I don't try to clean the inside of tubes when they're long and the cluster is well away from the ends. I do wipe the oil off the inside if I can reach it easily. Sounds like you have things pretty clean.

  7. #7

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    Ill post some pics ASAP

    Soon as a get some clusters together Ill post pics for evaluation.

  8. #8
    you could ad a defuser screen... takes a fatter cup... but covers better (argon)

    Gotta Fly...
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    Last edited by planecrazzzy; 03-06-2019 at 03:58 PM.

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