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Thread: Kawasaki T/A 440 Ultralight Engine won't start

  1. #11
    Norman Langlois's Avatar
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    Jul 2011
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    Northwood ,N.H. USA
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    142
    I run a 440 Kawasaki with the bowl & slide type carb. It would help to know what type carb you have. 3 most common Tillotson,Walboro and Mikuni. Bowl and slide carbs will have a separate pump . As long as you have supply its in the carb porting. A fine wire from say a wire brush. can somtimes be used like a pipe cleaner to clear those fine slotted hole. and there is always the main jet depending on the type and maker. In a choke on position one should get some result, even if it wont run continuous . You have stated it runs on ether , that leaves it to the fuel delivery alone. First be sure the carb is delivering fuel by cleaning .It will need to be cleaned thoroughly inside all ports and channels.Carb cleaner ? Gum-out this product dissolves some of the deposits but not all. Old fuel turned to a powder clogs . Personally If I found that inside I would buy a new carb . Then if sustained operation can not be achieved ,look to the shaft seals they dry out ,and if they are bad. They must be replaced, or BAD things can happen.The engine will not run long with bad seals . fuel will be too lean and over heating of the cylinder will melt down the piston. This may be true even if you have an electric fuel pump. The seals effect the draw on the carb. And need to be in good condition to make the separate diaphragm pump work.
    Last edited by Norman Langlois; 04-01-2018 at 01:29 PM.

  2. #12
    Dana's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    667
    What about the fuel feed to the carburetor? Is it gravity feed? Or a separate fuel pump? A blockage in the line (clogged fuel filter?) might allow enough fuel to fill the carb to start but \not enough to sustain running. If gravity feed, the tank needs to be some minimum distance above the carburetor.

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Apr 2018
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    50
    I am not an UL owner but have worked on many small engines including snowmobile. If gas was left in it to dry or corrode for 10 years, spraying or compressed air may not clean those tiny little passages. Best advice I have seen so far on here is just purchase a new carb. PLan B IF you can take it ALL apart and keep track of what goes where, cell phone pictures can help, soaking for a couple of days in carb cleaner, as Gumout or other. The problem with the new EPA approved solvents as they really do not clean as well as the old burn your eyes out stuff. Ketone or MEK or the like can do it now but so flammable and dangerous you must use in small quantity's and outside. Those solvents can and will eat up plastics and gaskets.

    Then blow out with compressed air and put back together with the new gaskets and parts in a rebuild kit.

  4. #14
    Thank you all very much! I will try taking the carb apart as far as I can and soaking it in cleaner, and, if that doesn't work, I'll look at getting a new carb.

  5. #15

    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    50
    Unless someone has replaced with an electric fuel pump, those engines have a pulse fuel pump with the pulse provided by the engine crankcase. Sometimes those diaphragm type pumps can go bad, they can be rebuilt but new Is better for aircraft purpose. But if the carb right now is full of gas, fix the carb by cleaning or replacement first.

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Apr 2018
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    5
    I'd replace the crank seals on something that's sat so long before flying it along with the fuel pump, all hoses, gaskets, seals, etc. Better safe than sorry.

  7. #17
    Alright, so we got it working, the carb had a tiny bit of dirt in an obscure hole, but we had it running for about 15 mins, but then the throttle cable got stuck, due to a few frays in it. Does anyone happen to know where I could get a 10-0012 cable that is 100" long? (That part number is from Motion Pro, as that is the only one I could find online with the proper ends, despite the cable being too short.

  8. #18

    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Clarklake, MI
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    2,153
    Quote Originally Posted by DireFlyer View Post
    Alright, so we got it working, the carb had a tiny bit of dirt in an obscure hole, but we had it running for about 15 mins, but then the throttle cable got stuck, due to a few frays in it. Does anyone happen to know where I could get a 10-0012 cable that is 100" long? (That part number is from Motion Pro, as that is the only one I could find online with the proper ends, despite the cable being too short.
    Sounds like this a stranded inner cable......In my motorcycle days I used to replace the stranded inner cable with generic, make whatever shape ends I needed and silver soldered them on. Measure length with adjusters in min position so you'll have plenty o' adjustment. Oh, come to think of it I did the same to a jet ski cable a while back. Jet ski still going strong.

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by martymayes View Post
    Sounds like this a stranded inner cable......In my motorcycle days I used to replace the stranded inner cable with generic, make whatever shape ends I needed and silver soldered them on. Measure length with adjusters in min position so you'll have plenty o' adjustment. Oh, come to think of it I did the same to a jet ski cable a while back. Jet ski still going strong.
    So I would fashion my own ends, and then buy any old throttle cable, take the ends off the throttle cable, and put my new ones on?

  10. #20

    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    50
    Motion Pro is a motorcycle, jet ski dealer they would have nothing that long. Since your dealing with UL air craft try Air Craft Spruce or any of the maybe half dozen engine and UL home built suppliers. You need to ID the carb and engine before shopping as it would help.

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