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Thread: Kawasaki T/A 440 Ultralight Engine won't start

  1. #11
    Norman Langlois's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Northwood ,N.H. USA
    I run a 440 Kawasaki with the bowl & slide type carb. It would help to know what type carb you have. 3 most common Tillotson,Walboro and Mikuni. Bowl and slide carbs will have a separate pump . As long as you have supply its in the carb porting. A fine wire from say a wire brush. can somtimes be used like a pipe cleaner to clear those fine slotted hole. and there is always the main jet depending on the type and maker. In a choke on position one should get some result, even if it wont run continuous . You have stated it runs on ether , that leaves it to the fuel delivery alone. First be sure the carb is delivering fuel by cleaning .It will need to be cleaned thoroughly inside all ports and channels.Carb cleaner ? Gum-out this product dissolves some of the deposits but not all. Old fuel turned to a powder clogs . Personally If I found that inside I would buy a new carb . Then if sustained operation can not be achieved ,look to the shaft seals they dry out ,and if they are bad. They must be replaced, or BAD things can happen.The engine will not run long with bad seals . fuel will be too lean and over heating of the cylinder will melt down the piston. This may be true even if you have an electric fuel pump. The seals effect the draw on the carb. And need to be in good condition to make the separate diaphragm pump work.
    Last edited by Norman Langlois; 04-01-2018 at 01:29 PM.

  2. #12
    Dana's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    What about the fuel feed to the carburetor? Is it gravity feed? Or a separate fuel pump? A blockage in the line (clogged fuel filter?) might allow enough fuel to fill the carb to start but \not enough to sustain running. If gravity feed, the tank needs to be some minimum distance above the carburetor.

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    I am not an UL owner but have worked on many small engines including snowmobile. If gas was left in it to dry or corrode for 10 years, spraying or compressed air may not clean those tiny little passages. Best advice I have seen so far on here is just purchase a new carb. PLan B IF you can take it ALL apart and keep track of what goes where, cell phone pictures can help, soaking for a couple of days in carb cleaner, as Gumout or other. The problem with the new EPA approved solvents as they really do not clean as well as the old burn your eyes out stuff. Ketone or MEK or the like can do it now but so flammable and dangerous you must use in small quantity's and outside. Those solvents can and will eat up plastics and gaskets.

    Then blow out with compressed air and put back together with the new gaskets and parts in a rebuild kit.

  4. #14
    Thank you all very much! I will try taking the carb apart as far as I can and soaking it in cleaner, and, if that doesn't work, I'll look at getting a new carb.

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