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Thread: Corben Jr ace build.

  1. #61

    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    After much scouring of the inter-webs I have come across information suggesting that cold rolled 316, 416T, and possibly cold rolled 304 stainless rod should have the same tensile strength as 1050 steel. I'm thinking I will upsize from 9/64ths to 3/16ths as it's easier to find and forgo the spoke nipples for doubled nuts. Anyone see any potential problems with this?

  2. #62

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    Nov 2017
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    So, as I progress through my build I come across another question: Zinc Phosphate, or Epoxy primer on steel wing fittings?
    The point is moot as I've ordered the epoxy primer already, but I'm curious to know how the two stack up against one another in an unexposed area like inside a wing.

  3. #63
    Sam Buchanan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tench745 View Post
    So, as I progress through my build I come across another question: Zinc Phosphate, or Epoxy primer on steel wing fittings?
    The point is moot as I've ordered the epoxy primer already, but I'm curious to know how the two stack up against one another in an unexposed area like inside a wing.
    Epoxy primer is an excellent moisture barrier.
    Sam Buchanan
    The RV Journal RV-6 build log
    Fokker D.VII semi-replica build log

  4. #64

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    Nov 2017
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    Looking for input on attaching wooden truss ribs to spars. The Corben plans call for the ribs to be glued and nailed through the verticals into the face of the spars. Most other homebuilts I see use triangle blocks to capture the rib. My first question is, what does a proper rib installation look like using this method; I'm having a hard time finding reference pictures.

    My remaining questions requires a little explanation.
    On the suggestion of another builder, when assembling my ribs I held the vertical members of the rib back from the spar openings a few thou to allow them to slide onto the spars easier. When I actually got the spar stock it measured a few thou shy of 3/4" and it looks to me like way too much space now.
    So, what I would like to know is, how much space between the spar and rib is "ok" as long as my compression struts are a snug fit. Do I need to glue in shims at the ribs to take up the space? Can these gaps be filled with T-88 and if so will I need a thickening agent?
    Basically, I think I done mussed up. Just to put it out there, I do have a tech counselor I'll be talking to at the next chapter meeting, but I like to ask here first.

  5. #65

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    Jul 2011
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    72
    Lots of wings attach the ribs via glue + nailing through the vertical member. That's true of the Acey Deucy, and, I believe, Paul Poberezny's Baby Ace, and the Pietenpol, for example.

    Just in case it sheds a little more light on the subject, here are the instructions for the Acey Deucy: http://zoemertech.com/ad/acey_deucy_building_info.pdf

    As for the loose tolerance between rib opening and spar, gluing a shim would be one approach, depending on just how big a gap you have.
    Last edited by conodeuce; 02-11-2019 at 11:03 AM.

  6. #66

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    Nov 2017
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    I'm still not clear on the process of epoxying a rib to the spar. Like, the physical process of applying epoxy under the rib before nailing. Some pictures would be helpful if anyone has them.

    A side thought, I'm thinking about using a set of letter stamps to stamp part numbers into my steel parts so I don't get them mixed up after painting. Any reason not to? Would a stamped number/letter be a potential stress riser or anything?

  7. #67

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    Nov 2017
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    Another question for the hive mind. Anyone tried brushing on ep-420 epoxy primer? How does it compare to spraying?

  8. #68

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tench745 View Post
    Another question for the hive mind. Anyone tried brushing on ep-420 epoxy primer? How does it compare to spraying?
    A foam roller will give the second best results to spraying. There is some technique involved, you'll figure it out quick.

  9. #69

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    Nov 2017
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    Thanks for the replies, guys. This is where things stand right now. I test-fit the ribs on the port wing and all looks good. Had to put things away to get my garage back for a bit. I need to thread drag-wires and finish the drag wire fittings, then all hardware needs epoxy primer before final installation. Unfortunately, it's 18° outside so painting is a no-go for a while. I can also cut the aileron spars to size and mill down some spruce for various wing bracing, but that's about it for now. Practice my welding and chase down parts for the next steps.
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