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Thread: Corben Jr ace build.

  1. #61

    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    33
    After much scouring of the inter-webs I have come across information suggesting that cold rolled 316, 416T, and possibly cold rolled 304 stainless rod should have the same tensile strength as 1050 steel. I'm thinking I will upsize from 9/64ths to 3/16ths as it's easier to find and forgo the spoke nipples for doubled nuts. Anyone see any potential problems with this?

  2. #62

    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    33
    So, as I progress through my build I come across another question: Zinc Phosphate, or Epoxy primer on steel wing fittings?
    The point is moot as I've ordered the epoxy primer already, but I'm curious to know how the two stack up against one another in an unexposed area like inside a wing.

  3. #63
    Sam Buchanan's Avatar
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    Nov 2011
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    KDCU
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    440
    Quote Originally Posted by Tench745 View Post
    So, as I progress through my build I come across another question: Zinc Phosphate, or Epoxy primer on steel wing fittings?
    The point is moot as I've ordered the epoxy primer already, but I'm curious to know how the two stack up against one another in an unexposed area like inside a wing.
    Epoxy primer is an excellent moisture barrier.
    Sam Buchanan
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  4. #64

    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    33
    Looking for input on attaching wooden truss ribs to spars. The Corben plans call for the ribs to be glued and nailed through the verticals into the face of the spars. Most other homebuilts I see use triangle blocks to capture the rib. My first question is, what does a proper rib installation look like using this method; I'm having a hard time finding reference pictures.

    My remaining questions requires a little explanation.
    On the suggestion of another builder, when assembling my ribs I held the vertical members of the rib back from the spar openings a few thou to allow them to slide onto the spars easier. When I actually got the spar stock it measured a few thou shy of 3/4" and it looks to me like way too much space now.
    So, what I would like to know is, how much space between the spar and rib is "ok" as long as my compression struts are a snug fit. Do I need to glue in shims at the ribs to take up the space? Can these gaps be filled with T-88 and if so will I need a thickening agent?
    Basically, I think I done mussed up. Just to put it out there, I do have a tech counselor I'll be talking to at the next chapter meeting, but I like to ask here first.

  5. #65

    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    70
    Lots of wings attach the ribs via glue + nailing through the vertical member. That's true of the Acey Deucy, and, I believe, Paul Poberezny's Baby Ace, and the Pietenpol, for example.

    Just in case it sheds a little more light on the subject, here are the instructions for the Acey Deucy: http://zoemertech.com/ad/acey_deucy_building_info.pdf

    As for the loose tolerance between rib opening and spar, gluing a shim would be one approach, depending on just how big a gap you have.
    Last edited by conodeuce; 02-11-2019 at 11:03 AM.

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