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Thread: Hand propping questions

  1. #11
    rwanttaja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anymouse View Post
    Do you know if there's an option out there for doing this with a T-Craft(65 HP)? The Armstrong starter I'm using now gets worn out easily in cold weather.
    Well, there's the Hamp starter. Not cheap, but it is STC'd.

    http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/fe...arter_for_A65s

    Edit: I see this is the "Safestart" system previously mentioned. For those without Facebook, contact information is:

    7350 N Osborn Rd
    Elwell, Michigan, MI 48832
    (989) 463-1762

    Cost is about $2000, and for an additional $500, they'll install it for you.

    Ron Wanttaja
    Last edited by rwanttaja; 05-02-2017 at 10:48 AM.

  2. #12

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    I few a J3 without a starter for years. Key points. it would start on first pull cold and 2nd pull warm with wood prop, and it idled so slowly so would not creep even with chocks pulled. I would never start it without chocks, ( use big rocks if you have to) and almost always the tail tied down also.
    So with chocks and one tie down and throttle just cracked open, prop start it. Then close the throttle all the way, walk around the rear to pull the left main chock, then untie the tail, then from behind the wing pull or kick out the right main chock. At idle the plane wont move and you are right by the cockpit ready to climb in, holding on to the door or wing strut, can even reach into switch off ingnitiion if needed. I never did, but you might even try starting just on the prime with fuel shut off.
    If you can, I d install a starter, for the few times when it might be hard to start.
    Last edited by Bill Greenwood; 05-02-2017 at 12:00 PM.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by DaleB View Post
    He is only ~100 miles from me. I'll stop in and visit next time I am up that way.

  4. #14

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    I learned to fly in a J-3 Cub when I was teenager. Eventually bought a 7AC Champ and a Luscombe 8A among other things. I heard about hand propping accidents frequently, so I developed MY procedure: First, turn on the fuel valve to fill the carb bowl. Then turn it off. It now only has 30 seconds of fuel in it. Enough time to get to the cockpit after it starts. I always carried 15' to 20' of good rope. Enough to reach from the seat belt (fastened) and looped around a tie down, tree or post. I could enter the cockpit after start, buckle up and retrieve my rope while seated.
    A glider tow hitch would be a nice touch, tho.
    Bob (Be careful)

  5. #15

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    Use one of these. It bolts to the tail wheel spring. Simple to hook up and install. I am surprised Ron did not mention this. If he did already and I missed it. sorry for the duplicate post.

    http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/tailhook.html

  6. #16

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    Here is one you can purchase if you don't want to have one made or don't want to make one.

    http://www.wingsunlimitedtowhooks.com/bolt-on.html

  7. #17
    My 1940 Funk has Cleveland disc brakes and a Grove parking brake valve. I set the brakes before hand propping it. Fortunately there's enough weight on the tailwheel to keep it from nosing over. I just crack the throttle ever so slightly above idle. I follow a checklist religiously and once the engine is running I get in and release the parking brake valve and taxi away. I've been following this procedure for 67 hours, no mishaps.
    joel marketello

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by jam0552@msn.com View Post
    My 1940 Funk has Cleveland disc brakes and a Grove parking brake valve. I set the brakes before hand propping it. Fortunately there's enough weight on the tailwheel to keep it from nosing over. I just crack the throttle ever so slightly above idle. I follow a checklist religiously and once the engine is running I get in and release the parking brake valve and taxi away. I've been following this procedure for 67 hours, no mishaps.
    joel marketello
    Could you please post a link to this parking brake valve. Jerry told me to purchase one and install it on the Cygnet.

    Some good advice here. I like the one about turning on the fuel then shutting it off. Very good advice when away and by yourself. Even if you tie her down. Never too safe in my opinion. I have also had a nose over after start up. Seeing how I start my vw from behind, I had to lay on the wing and reach inside and pull the throttle out. Now I take the seat belt and hold the stick in the back position. I also lean the mixture so the engine can not run much off an idle not without dying.

    Tony
    Last edited by 1600vw; 05-02-2017 at 07:24 PM.

  9. #19
    Anymouse's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwanttaja View Post
    Well, there's the Hamp starter. Not cheap, but it is STC'd.

    http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/fe...arter_for_A65s

    Edit: I see this is the "Safestart" system previously mentioned. For those without Facebook, contact information is:

    7350 N Osborn Rd
    Elwell, Michigan, MI 48832
    (989) 463-1762

    Cost is about $2000, and for an additional $500, they'll install it for you.

    Ron Wanttaja
    Might be worth it!


    EDIT: Or not! That installation looks UGLY!!!!
    Last edited by Anymouse; 05-02-2017 at 07:54 PM.
    Someday I'll come up with something profound to put here.

  10. #20
    Dana's Avatar
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    At my home base, I used a pair of heavy duty chocks (the plane will not climb over them even at full throttle) on a long cord. I chock the plane, tie the stick back with the seat belt or a bungee, and start the engine. Once it's running smoothly, I reduce the throttle to idle, none of my planes would roll at idle even on pavement, then I walk to the front of the wing, gently pull the chocks out and toss them in the hangar, get in the plane, and go. I also have a set of much lighter traveling chocks, also on a cord.

    There's also this... I made a similar setup for my Fisher and kept it in my "away" bag. It works with anything you can loop it around and you don't have to cut it or leave it behind:


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