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Thread: Getting More Volume from a Handheld Radio

  1. #1
    rwanttaja's Avatar
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    Getting More Volume from a Handheld Radio

    I've got an ICOM handheld permanently installed in my airplane as the primary comm radio. For years, I've used a standard aviation headset with it. I had to crank the volume up all the way, and some folks were STILL hard to understand. Dave Matheny's great column in the newest Sport Aviation also mentions this issue; difficulty hearing a handheld radio in a noisy aircraft when using an aviation headset.

    I finally stumbled across the reason earlier this year. Over the past week, I've done some testing in my workshop to get a handle on how bad the problem is and how effective corrective actions can be.

    First off, the fundamental reason is an impedance mismatch between the handheld radio audio output and the aviation headset's speakers. The companies making today's handheld radios (ICOM, YAESU, etc.) just adapt their existing product for the aircraft band. This means, like 99.9999% of electronics produced today, it is designed to work with 8 ohm speakers.

    Aviation Headsets, on the other hand, are designed to the 1920s Ma Bell headphone standard: 300 ohms.

    ("Impedance," by the way, is very similar to resistance, except it refers to the effective resistance at given frequencies. Just think of it as resistance for now).

    The problem comes when that radio, expecting just 8 ohms of impedance, hits the 150 ohm impedance (two 300 ohm speakers in parallel) of the headset. It can't push as much energy.

    I actually ran a test, using three different brands of headsets. I turned on an ICOM handheld, plugged in a consumer-type 8-ohm headphone, and dialed up the volume on the ICOM until I was reading 100 dB in the headphone cup. I then connected the ICOM to the three headsets in turn.

    The result?

    Headset #1: 89 dB
    Headset #2: 94 dB
    Headset #3: 92 dB

    Between 6 and 11 dB less sound energy hitting one's ears. And sound levels are logarithmic, not linear... a 3 dB reduction in level means HALF THE SOUND ENERGY. A 6 dB reduction means a quarter of the sound energy is available for you to hear.

    In other words, these are significant drops. In a J. Mac-class airplane, one just unconsciously ups the volume control a tad. For us poor souls in the open-cockpit machines, there might not be enough volume available.

    Fortunately, simple fixes exist, with costs from $5 to $150.

    The simplest is to replace the speakers in the aviation headset with 8-ohm models. Rugged Radios sells 8-ohm headset speakers for $15 each. They might fit your headset. In my case, I actually bought an aviation headset from Rugged on the assumption the speakers have the same wires and attachment. I was right... flew it today, and the volume was good and loud. The drawback here is that the headset can't be used with a "conventional" aircraft radio any more. But then I have two additional headsets....

    If you're willing to do a bit more work, you can install an impedance matching transformer that'll let you use your existing headset with no modification. These cost less than $5, and will bring the sound level to within 1-2 dB of the nominal value. You can install the transformers behind the panel, or make a simple plug-in adaptor for your headset, or even install the transformer within the headset itself (although, again, you won't be able to use it with standard radios).

    Here's the ordering information and the connections to be made:

    http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/av_xform2.jpg

    I have written the details up in more detail on an article on the Fly Baby web page, Adventures in Amplitude.

    Ron Wanttaja
    Last edited by rwanttaja; 10-02-2016 at 09:32 PM.

  2. #2
    Byron J. Covey
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    Thanks Ron, that is useful info.


    BJC

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    Ron you are second to none. When I purchased my handheld I did not want the problems you describe. This is why I purchased everything together in a pack type of thing from one company, Icom. They have been great when I needed parts or any replacements. What I like about this everything plays well together right out of the box. I was thinking of using an aviation headset with this system. Thanks for explaining all this and what it takes to use an aviation style headset with a handheld. You do amazing work Ron. Keep at it. I love your radio install for an handheld. Like I said..Second to none....

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    rwanttaja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1600vw View Post
    Ron you are second to none. When I purchased my handheld I did not want the problems you describe. This is why I purchased everything together in a pack type of thing from one company, Icom. They have been great when I needed parts or any replacements. What I like about this everything plays well together right out of the box. I was thinking of using an aviation headset with this system. Thanks for explaining all this and what it takes to use an aviation style headset with a handheld. You do amazing work Ron. Keep at it. I love your radio install for an handheld. Like I said..Second to none....
    Thanks a bunch!

    Also, your comment reminded me of one thing that I forgot to check. I have a headset adaptor for my ICOM ICA5, and was curious as to whether it included an impedance matcher.

    It does not...it just connects the radio's speaker outputs to the built-in 1/4" headset jack. I'm assuming this is same for the headset adaptors for other ICOM aviation handhelds. So even if you use the official adaptor, you need to add the impedance matching device (or change the headset speakers like I did).

    I think I have an idea on how to make a compact adaptor. Back when I was working on an under-helmet headset, I made an adaptor inside a pill bottle then filled the bottle with resin casting material:


    This particular adaptor, sadly, goes the wrong way (lets me plug in an 8-ohm consumer headset into an aircraft radio jack). But I think a casting like this should work with an ICOM to Aircraft Headset adaptor.

    In the immortal words of Commander Montgomery Scott: "I'll let ye know...."

    Ron Wanttaja

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    FlyingRon's Avatar
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    I think these 3000 watt amplifiers will do the trick. Add this and a big kicker speaker in the back and you can hear well. You can then get a tape of a R-985 and play that to make it sound like you've got some real power in that plane.

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...Y8cRoC2qTw_wcB

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    rwanttaja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingRon View Post
    I think these 3000 watt amplifiers will do the trick. Add this and a big kicker speaker in the back and you can hear well. You can then get a tape of a R-985 and play that to make it sound like you've got some real power in that plane.
    I think I just needed to replace the volume control.
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    Ron Wanttaja

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    The simplest is to replace the speakers in the aviation headset with 8-ohm models. Rugged Radios sells 8-ohm headset speakers for $15 each. They might fit your headset. In my case, I actually bought an aviation headset from Rugged on the assumption the speakers have the same wires and attachment. I was right... flew it today, and the volume was good and loud. The drawback here is that the headset can't be used with a "conventional" aircraft radio any more. But then I have two additional headsets....
    To be clear, you bought their headset with the 150 ohms impedance speakers and then replaced them with the 8 ohm ones, thinking correctly that all the internal hardware fastening points, size, etc. were the same.

    I'd love to have a good "Nieuport Only" headset where I can make out others well. Like most pilots I have three headsets anyway, and so it's not a big deal to have one that only works with my handheld.

    Three?

    First one given to me by an old pilot no longer flying when I was in lessons - it's a black set with all the logos rubbed off from long use (but works great!).
    Second is the bog standard Sigtronics that your Mark One Old Guy On The Field sold me for 25 bucks during a hangar cleaning...I figured I could always use a second.
    Third is a David Clark H10-13.4 (again, bog standard) that I saw in a pawn shop under the glass that looked brand new. Knowing that the market isn't great for aviation headsets, I offered 50 bucks to get it off his inventory. He bit. The only bad thing about it is that I wonder if some guy just didn't leave it laying around an FBO....but it could also be from a student pilot that gave it up.
    The opinions and statements of this poster are largely based on facts and portray a possible version of the actual events.

  8. #8
    rwanttaja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Giger View Post
    To be clear, you bought their headset with the 150 ohms impedance speakers and then replaced them with the 8 ohm ones, thinking correctly that all the internal hardware fastening points, size, etc. were the same.
    Yes, since I'd ordered a Rugged Radios headset, and ordered the replacement speakers from them, I figured it was a good bet that they'd be compatible.

    I've never taken another brand apart, and don't really know if there's a "standard" headset speaker design. I suspect not. Here's a shot of my headset and the speakers:

    http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/av_headset.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Giger View Post
    I'd love to have a good "Nieuport Only" headset where I can make out others well.
    Only have one flight on mine, but I'm happy with the Rugged Radios unit.

    It's either my fourth or fifth headset, counting the homemade ones. I've used a Denali ANL as my primary headset for years, and may switch back to it if I come up with a good adaptor solution.

    Years ago, I decided I needed a second headset, and ordered one of the "Special" $100 headsets in a magazine ad. It works, but is obviously cheap. The mike boom is just a bent piece of plastic, and the wire rods that hold the ear cups tend to pop off and leave the cup dangling.

    I basically expected the same for the Rugged Radios unit, but I was wrong. It seems very solid and well-built. I bought the optional gel cushions, and the passive attenuation is very good. I am very happy with this unit, though like I said, I've only flown with it once.

    Here's a helpful hint: When you go to their site, select the 'Clearance' tab. They sell demo units of their headsets there... my RA200 was a demo unit, and cost just $65. It had one or two little scuffs on it, but nothing more than it'd get hanging round the airplane for a month or two.

    The speakers are accessed from the inside (ear side) of the cups...see the above picture. Remove the ear seals from the cup. There's a thin sheet of foam over the speaker, just slide it across until you reach the edge and pull it out. Similarly, there's a section of wider foam with a speaker-shaped cutout around the speaker. Again, it's easily removed. Two small Phillips screws, and the speaker is loose. It's sitting on a base of thick foam, which can be moved/rearranged but that really isn't necessary.

    Gently pull the speaker free of the ear cup, and the green and black wires will trail after it out of a largish hole in the foam until a pigtailed/soldered junction is found. Pull off the shrink-tube insulation, cut off the wires to the original speakers, solder the wires from the new speakers, cover again with shrink tube (or some other insulation), then tuck the wires back behind the foam as you lead the speaker back into place. Re-install the screws, put the foam back in, and install the ear seal.

    Ron Wanttaja

  9. #9
    rwanttaja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwanttaja View Post
    I think I have an idea on how to make a compact adaptor. Back when I was working on an under-helmet headset, I made an adaptor inside a pill bottle then filled the bottle with resin casting material...

    In the immortal words of Commander Montgomery Scott: "I'll let ye know...."
    And the ghost of Scotty gives a satisfied, "Aye....."

    Molded adaptor, using casting resin, worked great. This is a picture of it right out of the mold. Need to clean up some flash, maybe paint it, but I tested it on my ICOM and it works.

    The visible plug is the one that plugs into the panel, direct to the radio. I'd inserted a spare plug into the headset jack on the adaptor, just to verify the jack was clear of casting resin.

    Ron Wanttaja

  10. #10
    Jim Heffelfinger's Avatar
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    update...

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    Ron et all.... I was dealing with the same issue the other day - of having a limited volume on a head set/portable - this time for marshaling. So I searched the feeds and ran into your multiple articles.
    SO, I ordered the headset and replacement speakers but the wiring looks a bit different now - I thought I would add the photos here for comparison.
    There is a 3.5 mm jack on the right ear cup as well.
    Jim Heffelfinger
    Sacramento
    Last edited by Jim Heffelfinger; 05-18-2017 at 05:08 PM. Reason: format

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