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Thread: Paint Repair

  1. #11

    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    IMHO with how auto are made today, paints had to change to keep up with them. meaning back in the day auto's were made from thick steal. If you got even the smallest of a ding the paint would chip. Today's auto is made from flexible material. You can get a ding and pop it out and the paint will not chip or crack. Why? Because today's paint is not made from the solids of yesterday's paint. It flexes more without cracking. I believe you can do things today with this paint that you could not do before. It also took the paint manufacturers some time to catch up or make their paints flexible to meet the demands of today's auto. IMHO. Here are some pics of what I am doing. Again the yellow you see is 5 years old. Or was applied fiver years ago over the paint that was already on this airplane. I sanded and painted said area. I have no idea why, But I can not attach any files or pics. I also can not make paragraphs. This site is putting everything in one long text message. Annoying is what this is.

  2. #12

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    Nov 2012
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    The tips on my prop are being painted to match the airplane. This is going to look good when I am done. I wish i could post some pics. I will post a video onto youtube and put a link up to this posting.

  3. #13

    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    32
    This is great feedback! Tony, your story gives me hope that I can perform some repairs and get a few years out of the fabric before the recover job... thank you! Here is what I have done since my original post. I pealed some paint off of the fabric where it was cracking. Then I soaked a portion of the paint in MEK - it did not melt or even soften. It just curled up (see pictures). All of the previous paint and dope melted away. I have come to the conclusion that the topcoat (which was not documented in the logbook) is polyurethane - is there any other coating that would be impervious to MEK? So my thought is to sand down the polyurethane in the area that needs to be repaired and use MEK to remove the undercoats down to the fabric. Then start with the nitrate dope and build it back from there. While I am not too concerned about the cosmetics of the repair, I would like it to look as nice as possible. So what would be the recommendations for a new topcoat in the repair area? Really appreciate all of the great replies! --Rob
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  4. #14

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    Nov 2012
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    If you notice on the wing I have finished the blue paint. If you look at that wing you will see it is really shiny in the area inboard off the aileron. This was repainted 5 years ago. It looks as it was painted today. I will post more video's of what I am doing. I will also include some pics showing the use of the eco-fill and how that works.

    On your example I would peal all the loose paint back or off the fabric that you can. Use your finger nail or whatever to do this. This is what I do or did. Then use the eco-fill from stewards system to fill in the weave of the fabric. This is applied in many thin coats. It says on the can to spray the last coat. I don't do this. Make sure you sand between each coat. letting each coat dry well before sanding. Then paint right over this. No primer is applied over this. Scuff sand all paint before you paint and wipe everything down really well. You will be shocked how well this will turn out if you spend some time or take your time at this. Sanding is the most time consuming as is taping.

    Let me also state my airplane was not done in the stewards system. But this system has work wonders in my repairs and has held up with the system that was used. i have no idea what system that was, but it was not the steward system.




    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxWj6xqi_8k
    Last edited by 1600vw; 05-24-2016 at 08:26 PM.

  5. #15

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    Nov 2012
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    This was repainted 5 years ago. As you can see i am pushing hard on this. This has never cracked but flexes.

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  6. #16

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    Nov 2012
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    Here I am pushing again on this for the second time. As you see no cracking and remember this was repainted 5 years ago.

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    My Grand Daughter lending a helping hand. I see a future pilot here.

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  7. #17

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    Nov 2012
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    Here is a completed side. I am redoing the yellow next. I will post pics.

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  8. #18

    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Clarklake, MI
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    2,461
    Quote Originally Posted by RCS View Post
    I pealed some paint off of the fabric where it was cracking. Then I soaked a portion of the paint in MEK - it did not melt or even soften. It just curled up (see pictures). All of the previous paint and dope melted away. I have come to the conclusion that the topcoat (which was not documented in the logbook) is polyurethane - is there any other coating that would be impervious to MEK? --Rob
    That paint appears to be Imron, the DuPont brand.

    Just curious what kind of plane? Homebuilt? Factory?

  9. #19

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    Nov 2012
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    We believe mine is also painted in Imron. But I did not use Imron to repaint it. But the paint man said this would work over Imron. So far it has or after 5 years it has held up very nicely.

  10. #20

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    Nov 2012
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    Speaking of the paint. I watched the man fill the rattle can with that blue paint you see that I applied. That can held only a few ounces of this paint. I painted a lot of area on this airplane with those few ounces. I also did not use multi coats. This was sprayed one time or only one pass was made. I did this when I repaired the yellow and this was how I did the blue. Single coat is all that is needed.

    My point: Doing this adds no extra weight to your airplane. You are removing just as much material in the sanding process as you are replacing. IMHO.

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