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Thread: Reparing Crumpled Aluminum

  1. #11

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    Mar 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by cub builder View Post
    Yes, it's pretty well buggered. No doubt a couple of ribs and some skin material. I can't tell for sure from the pictures whether the spar is involved or not, or if so, how badly it's damaged. But this really is just the typical sheet metal repair done by A&Ps in shops all over the country every day.

    You drill out the damaged panels until you run out of damaged panels to remove. Gently hammer them out flat to use as a template for the new panels. Order new aluminum of the same thickness, grade, and temper as what is being replaced. Depending on the hardness condition of the ribs, you either bump them back out, use doublers to splice/repair them, or fabricate new and replace. The spar will also need to be evaluated once it's properly exposed. Get with a good sheet metal guy. He can point to what all you need to drill out. Any RV builder knows how to drill rivets and can teach you how to do so properly. Then it's just a matter of deciding what to repair, and what to replace, then drilling and riveting.

    Of course you can always hire someone to do it for you, but didn't you buy an Experimental so you can learn how to do this stuff?

    -Cub Builder
    Most of that sounds like what I thought it might be. I wasn't sure about templates and if I could use the existing parts to create new parts from since some of them are so badly deformed.

    The hiring I was referring to wasn't so much to hire someone to do the work but to hold my hand while I did it myself. I have no problem with getting my hands dirty, I just want to make sure that whatever I do, I do it correctly.

    BTW I noticed that some of the tool suppliers have rivet removal tools. Are they of any value or is a person better off just drilling the rivets out by hand? The tools I have seen are basically a drill bit enclosed in a guide to control the angle and location of the drilling.

    Bert

  2. #12

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    I'd remove those rivets by hand.

    From the looks of it that skin is nice scrap (don't throw it out!) and the ribs are going to need to be replaced. Elongating a hole in scrap isn't a problem.

    The thing is that aluminum isn't prohibitively expensive and widely available in the grades required for replacement.

    It looks really dire, but as we know it's really all about the spar.

    [edit]

    And yes, I'd replace it as a patch, putting a seam along the first undamaged rib rather than re-skin the whole thing.
    The opinions and statements of this poster are largely based on facts and portray a possible version of the actual events.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by BertP View Post
    Most of that sounds like what I thought it might be. I wasn't sure about templates and if I could use the existing parts to create new parts from since some of them are so badly deformed.

    The hiring I was referring to wasn't so much to hire someone to do the work but to hold my hand while I did it myself. I have no problem with getting my hands dirty, I just want to make sure that whatever I do, I do it correctly.

    BTW I noticed that some of the tool suppliers have rivet removal tools. Are they of any value or is a person better off just drilling the rivets out by hand? The tools I have seen are basically a drill bit enclosed in a guide to control the angle and location of the drilling.
    That's a BIG project Bert. Likely require jigs to put it back together. By all means, utilize the tools and aids for removing rivets. It's very easy to cause a lot of damage during disassembly by oversizing or elongating holes in the structure.

  4. #14
    cub builder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BertP View Post
    Most of that sounds like what I thought it might be. I wasn't sure about templates and if I could use the existing parts to create new parts from since some of them are so badly deformed.
    That's the nice thing about aluminum. you can bump out some pretty wadded up stuff well enough to use as a template.

    Quote Originally Posted by BertP View Post
    The hiring I was referring to wasn't so much to hire someone to do the work but to hold my hand while I did it myself. I have no problem with getting my hands dirty, I just want to make sure that whatever I do, I do it correctly.

    BTW I noticed that some of the tool suppliers have rivet removal tools. Are they of any value or is a person better off just drilling the rivets out by hand? The tools I have seen are basically a drill bit enclosed in a guide to control the angle and location of the drilling.
    I view projects as a good excuse to buy tools. So here's your first educational opportunity. Try drilling some rivets out by hand, then try some with a rivet drill guide. You can probably borrow a rivet drill guide (rivet removal tool) from an RV builder to give it a try, or ask your Tech Counselor or A&P that's going to oversee to bring along a drill guide so you can try it and ask for some instruction. I would use the guide for the rivets where they are riveted to something you think you might be able to re-use.

    I really prefer using an air drill with a feathering throttle. It's just easier than using my heavy DeWalt cordless. All that weight turns into inertia as soon as the bit pops through. But either will work.

    -Cub Builder
    Last edited by cub builder; 03-22-2016 at 04:35 PM.

  5. #15

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    I'd call that damage severe and as others indicated, all effected skin panels need to be replaced and the damaged ribs addressed also. But the real concern is with the spar in the impacted area. After opening the skin, you should be able to access spar and determine damage to web or caps and straightness. I would get a knowledgable repairman to look at it with you and itemize what needs to be done and sequence of repairs. When visually inspecting damage, you want to use a 10X manifying glass in questionable areas to look for cracks or dye pen with developer. I'd also check replacement price for wing half should the damage be more extensive than anticipated.

  6. #16

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    I'd also check replacement price for wing half should the damage be more extensive than anticipated.
    being a homebuilt, not sure that is an option. For sure, repairs could be as labor intensive as building a new wing.

  7. #17

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    Mar 2016
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    Thanks for all of your replies. I hope to have our local Tech rep come out to my place for a visit soon so I can get some pointers on what I should and shouldn't do.

    I have already bought a bunch of shop tools and a used Sioux drill so I am slowly adding to my collection. I know I will need a riveter, some bucking bars and a bunch of rivets but that's a ways off.

    I guess I'll start pulling pieces off and see what I find. It'll take me a bit to get my garage ready but I hope to start the serious dismantling soon.

    I don't think I could buy a new wing even if it was allowed. While this aircraft is a Cessna 182 look alike - and it really does look like one - it was hand built from scratch so I don't think a 182's wing would work. Nice thought, though :-)

    Bert

  8. #18

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    I would check out the measurements for a Cessna wing , the builders had to get their specs from somewhere to make a clone so you might be surprised. I like the challenge of repairing it and it's such a skills building activity, but if you have a tweaked spar you're looking at a lot of work. I'm a pretty good scrounger and check out any surplus stores, I found MIL-SPEC rivets at one along with other tools at like 20% of regular retail. Do definitely seek out the pros for advice, I had the pleasure of watching a couple guys in Edmonton Alberta who rebuild Beavers, Otters and the like,they had the throttled air drills and they wasted no time. Like the guys are saying any device or gadget that makes your work easier or more accurate, like the drill guides is money well spent , I'm sure some journeyman will steer you right. Good luck with your endeavor and I hope you find the pleasure and satisfaction of repairing it yourself.

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