Bob after thinking about this I do believe Ed said something about 2150 in cruise. I am going to run it and see what I get then get back with Ed with the numbers. I will not let her go over 2300 static but from the post I doubt I will need to worry about this.
Should I see 2300 for take off or 2150 - 2200 ?
Tony
Tony, A little info that may be helpful. This is a link to the FAA's Type Certificate Data Sheet (TCDS) for the A-65 series. The TCDS number is E-205 and its free from the feds.
http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Gu...4?OpenDocument
I don't recall T.O. RPM. Sorry. If you need to ever do a valve job consider the STELLITE (sp) valves. They allow you to use 2500 as a limit and you have an A-75. I belive that there are carb jets to be changed too.
Bob (The search begins for the tach)
Bob again I thank you for this info.
Tony
I made that tool the 4 inch one cut down to 1.55 with a shank of .600 This comes no where close to taking this off. The shank of .600 needs to be at least double this. I was wondering if I could use a socket to take up the slack in side this hub or do I need to have this tool reworked?
They said something about not getting into the threads. First I do not see threads, but could I not use something that rests against the middle of the crank and then using this tool? If I explained this to were everyone understands what I mean.
Thanks
Tony
Well, kind of. Any A-65 that has been overhauled in the last 30 years should have modern valves, so that shouldn't be an issue. Additionally, the A-65s need to have the rod caps drilled before turning them up to more RPM. I haven't found one yet that doesn't have them drilled, but there may still be a few out there. (The oil port drilled into the bottom of the rod cap lines up with the oil port in the crank to squirt oil into the opposing cylinder at Bottom Dead Center to help cool the piston crown & lubricate the cylinder better). The actual A-75 pistons have a waffle pattern cast into the bottom side of the piston head to give more surface area for cooling with the oil squirting into it as previously mentioned.Originally Posted by Bob Dingley
However, in an Experimental Application, I would just ensure that the rods are drilled to assist with piston head cooling, and that you have modern exhaust valves. The A-65 piston is a cam ground piston vs the older A-75 piston being a round piston. The newer A-65 piston is a better piece of equipment.
IMHO, it's always a good idea to become intimately familiar with the insides of your engine before you fly behind it. Whether you do it, or have someone knowledgeable do so, I have found over the years, that what's in the logs usually isn't the real story and often times does not reflect the actual condition of the engine. I never buy an engine, then bolt it on an fly. Did that once and very nearly paid the ultimate price with a night time failure 80 hours later.
-CubBuilder
After fighting with this hub for days today it comes right off. I believe the PB Blaster finally worked. The aluminum prop came in at 20lbs. The wooden prop came in at 5 lbs.
This is or was a flying airplane. Very few logs came with it. It does have an engine log that says its been rebuilt but that is about all it says besides hrs and it has 45 hrs on it since OH. I do see some oil dripping from the jugs, not a lot but the bottom bolts are a little wet. Everything looks like its relatively new but who knows.
This airplane will be used to bore holes in the sky above my airfield and not going far in it. For the first 20 hrs she is staying close to the home runway. I really hate to pull the engine apart, I will do a cylinder leak down after I static run her for a couple hrs. Then the next day do some testing on the engine after she sits all night. If I was using this airplane to transfer or fly family or friends in I would be sending this engine off to an engine shop. To fly me above corn fields close to my airstrip I will not do this.
I only fly 40-60 min's at a time. I can not sit in these seats any longer then this. Most my flight are 45 min's. Some longer some shorter but never have I flown over an hr.
Tony
Last edited by 1600vw; 03-19-2014 at 12:07 PM.
Tony,
I'll get the tach headed your way. Just need an address. PM me. Good info from Cubbuilder. However, my eng log showed stock valves. And you don't have logs.
Bob
Buying an A-65 With No Logs
I usually don't worry too much about lack of logbook information as the "current state condition" is really what counts. As long as compression is in limits, oil temps, pressure, and consumption are in line, you should be good to go.
From Harry Fenton
Tony
Thanks Bob.....
Getting back to your original question, you need to understand that prop pitch is usually measured at a certain percentage of the blade length and the pitch (blade angle)changes continually through it's length. If your aluminum prop was shortened then the original blade angle at a percentage of blade length is no longer accurate. Some prop makers measure pitch on the rear face of the blade and some use the cord line of the blade airfoil. different prop makers may use different blade airfoils so this is another area for pitch measurement to differ for the same affective pitch.
Ed Sterba built me a couple of props over 30 years ago when I was flying a Sonerai and as good as he was then he can only be better now. Personally, I would consider asking anyone else for advice concerning a Sterba prop a waste of time. I don't mean any disrespect toward the posters here, but no one knows props on Sonerais' any better than Ed.
I would agree that the clipped metal prop is a wall hanger.
The change will have an affect on your weight and balance so adjust accordingly.
Neil
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