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Thread: Safety wiring worm clamps

  1. #11
    Bob Collins's Avatar
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    Well, here we are deep into the thread and we've talked about everything BUT safety wiring worm clamps.

    The reason I'm asking is I'm installing a Reiff preheating system and the instructions state that the worm clamps holding the cylinder bands should be safety wired because they will work loose and break.

    The system costs about $500 so I'd kind of like them not to do that.

  2. #12
    Mike Switzer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Collins View Post
    Well, here we are deep into the thread and we've talked about everything BUT safety wiring worm clamps.
    Worm clamps are not commonly safety wired.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Collins View Post
    The reason I'm asking is I'm installing a Reiff preheating system and the instructions state that the worm clamps holding the cylinder bands should be safety wired because they will work loose and break.

    The system costs about $500 so I'd kind of like them not to do that.
    If so why not ask them? I have seen a few Reiff systems installed on planes & I do not remember seeing safety wires. Maybe they have recently started recommending this, in which case they probably have a recommendation on the proper procedure.

  3. #13
    Auburntsts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Collins View Post
    Well, here we are deep into the thread and we've talked about everything BUT safety wiring worm clamps.

    The reason I'm asking is I'm installing a Reiff preheating system and the instructions state that the worm clamps holding the cylinder bands should be safety wired because they will work loose and break.

    The system costs about $500 so I'd kind of like them not to do that.
    Bob, did you go to the link that Marty put in post #3? I looked at it and the solution seemed reasonable to me.
    Todd “I drink and know things” Stovall
    PP ASEL - IA
    RV-10 N728TT - Flying
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    WAR DAMN EAGLE!

  4. #14

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    An old reference I have says "AN737TW Hose Clamps are for use on fuel, oil and coolant lines; clamps may be tightened repeatedly while in service. No lock wire required."

    So I'd say there is no standard method of safetying a tangential-worm clamp. Absent instructions, I think you can come up with your own method/technique or just copy someone, like the link in #3.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Auburntsts View Post
    Bob, did you go to the link that Marty put in post #3? I looked at it and the solution seemed reasonable to me.
    On closer examination, some of those examples are not good.

  6. #16

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    I will not be posting those pics for a while, I came down with this flu going around.

    I got these lines and ends from Mullens Hotrod shop here in springfield IL. they are located on cook street.

    If you give them a call talk to Dwayne. Tell him what you are looking for he will help you.


    H.A.S.

  7. #17

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    This stuff is called "Push Loc" Its all AN and they do make pipe thread ends to go into blocks and such. You can get this with rubber hose or the metal hose. Takes no speacial tools to install. Just make sure you have everything correct before putting your ends on, once on they can not be taken off. No clamps and will never leak.

  8. #18

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    Do a search for Push loc fittings you will find what you need and no more clamps. You can thank me later......

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1600vw View Post
    This stuff is called "Push Loc" Its all AN and they do make pipe thread ends to go into blocks and such. You can get this with rubber hose or the metal hose. Takes no speacial tools to install. Just make sure you have everything correct before putting your ends on, once on they can not be taken off. No clamps and will never leak.
    Bob's situation is a little different. The Reif cylinder heating bands are attached worm clamps, so not using them isn't an option. Giving Bob Reiff a call and asking for his advice is probably a good suggestion.
    --
    Bob Leffler
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  10. #20
    FlyingRon's Avatar
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    Bob Reiff will tell you that any problem you have with the units as sold are purely incompentence of the user/isntaller and that there is no way there could possibly be a problem with the design or manufacture.

    THe official line on screw clams was already posted. You need to check them for tightness periocially. While this is absolutely essential if it were something like a hose clam that could lead to leaks or the hose blowing off, on the Reiff it's not a real big problem. It's just going to let them slip a bit. They probably will still work fine and I can't imagine a safety issue for flight. Of course, if you're really paranoid, get a TANIS that uses more conventional hardware to mount.

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