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Thread: Box & Pan Brake

  1. #11

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    Mike: This might give you some good ideas:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Ey5DHMYLZg

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by WLIU View Post
    You do not need an expensive and talented bending brake if you bring some planning and patience into the equation.

    Each type of material has a different minimum bend radius. What I have done is the following:

    A) cut a number of strips of thin material
    B) Number the strips
    C) Put the first one into the jaws of the brake with minimum set back. Bend maybe 135 degrees. You now have a small radius. Leave the strip in the brake.
    D) Adjust the jaws of the brake back to accommodate bending another strip around the first. Bend. You now have a set of two strips with increasing radii.
    E) Again adjust the jaws of the brake back to accommodate bending another strip around the ones already in place. Insert another strip, bend, repeat until you have enough radius options for the parts that you intend to make.

    Having a set of radius strips allows you to quickly get the bend radius that you want. And for extra credit you can write the set back that each one needs on the part you will bend, right on each radius strip.

    Having a set of radius strips allows you to borrow or beg time on a friend's bending brake, or save some $$ by buying a less expensive used or new brake.

    I will note that borrowing time on another builder's, a friendly mechanic's or an EAA chapter's tools is part of the social experience of building. Building can get pretty lonely.....

    Hope this helps,

    Wes
    N78PS
    Wes, you reinforce my point, these cheap presses won't do the job as bought.

  3. #13

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    point to remember, these three way machines are a press brake, they are not bending brakes. they have their advantages but they will not do what a open bending brake will do.

  4. #14
    Mike Switzer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Downey View Post
    point to remember, these three way machines are a press brake, they are not bending brakes. they have their advantages but they will not do what a open bending brake will do.
    Yea, I figured that out watching one of the woodward videos. All I have ever used is an open bending brake, I know it will do what I want. Some of the online reviews of the cheaper units are putting me off though. For something like my steel oil pan a few minor imperfections wouldn't be a big deal, but my fuel tanks & coolant tanks will be aluminum. I'm going to be using it for some other projects down the road also.

  5. #15
    We have several box and pan brakes to choose from in different sizes and capacities. We also have Shear Brake Combo Machines that feature a apron brake and shear in one machine. Check all these machines at www.bodybuilderraceequipment.com

  6. #16
    Sam Buchanan's Avatar
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    Yes, premium quality tools are a pleasure to work with, don't think anyone will argue that point. But there are situations where discount priced tools are functional and a good value when they will be lightly or seldom used.

    I built an original design fuel tank for my Legal Eagle. It is a complex tank, lots of weird angles that must be correct for the thing to fit together properly:

    http://eaglexl-58.com/tank-9.jpg

    It was essential I have a bending brake in my shop for this project even though I seldom need a brake. The most practical option was an inexpensive Harbor Freight brake:

    http://eaglexl-58.com/tank-14.jpg

    This brake certainly won't win any precision-tool awards, and it requires some finesse and patience to get dialed in to get the results needed. But it worked well for the tank project and didn't bust the budget. Matter of fact, the price was low enough that even if I never need it again it was worthwhile for just the one tank project. Interestingly, I have used it several times since and I now consider it totally amortized and a useful addition to the shop.

    The purists will sniff at these inexpensive tools, but that's ok, my Eagle fuel tank has been flying for two summers. The difference in cost between the Harbor Freight brake and a "better" one has funded the fuel for those two summers.
    Last edited by Sam Buchanan; 10-08-2012 at 07:56 AM.
    Sam Buchanan
    The RV Journal RV-6 build log
    Fokker D.VII semi-replica build log

  7. #17
    Mike Switzer's Avatar
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    Sam, that same brake is available at our local farm store at a very reasonable price, and I thought about getting one, but there is no way to form all 4 sides of a box or pan without the fingers.

    Did you just design your tank so it could be made 3 sides at a time & then fasten it together?

  8. #18
    Sam Buchanan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Switzer View Post
    Sam, that same brake is available at our local farm store at a very reasonable price, and I thought about getting one, but there is no way to form all 4 sides of a box or pan without the fingers.

    Did you just design your tank so it could be made 3 sides at a time & then fasten it together?
    Each side is an individual piece. It was designed with external flanges so no rivets penetrate the tank. The simple brake easily handled all the bends and flanges. The crazy angles would have made for some ridiculously difficult layouts if three sides were one piece. Flamemaster sealant (same as used on RVs) was used to seal everything up and it has been leak-proof so far. More details here:

    http://eaglexl-58.com/tank.htm
    Last edited by Sam Buchanan; 10-08-2012 at 09:08 PM.
    Sam Buchanan
    The RV Journal RV-6 build log
    Fokker D.VII semi-replica build log

  9. #19
    FlyingRon's Avatar
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    I disagree with you Marty. Harbor Freight is by and large cheap junk and while if it works, it can be a very good deal, TRACTOR SUPPLY sells top notch usually name brand stuff. I buy all of my airtools at Tractor Supply and it's a good deal. Sort of in between is Northern Tool if you have one near by.

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