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Thread: Box & Pan Brake

  1. #1
    Mike Switzer's Avatar
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    Box & Pan Brake

    I am in need of a box & pan brake. I used to have access to a shop with a 12' brake, but not anymore.

    I have done some searching online, and I am suspicious of the quality of some of these units. Also, I am not sure how big of a unit is enough. I know I don't need anything near as big as the 12' unit I was using, since I'm not planning on making any grain chutes or HVAC ducts, but I think the 24" units may be too small.

    I want to use it to make oil pans, fuel tanks, etc.

    Anyone have any thoughts on reasonably priced decent quality units, or what size is "big enough"?

  2. #2
    Sam Buchanan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Switzer View Post
    I am in need of a box & pan brake. I used to have access to a shop with a 12' brake, but not anymore.

    I have done some searching online, and I am suspicious of the quality of some of these units. Also, I am not sure how big of a unit is enough. I know I don't need anything near as big as the 12' unit I was using, since I'm not planning on making any grain chutes or HVAC ducts, but I think the 24" units may be too small.

    I want to use it to make oil pans, fuel tanks, etc.

    Anyone have any thoughts on reasonably priced decent quality units, or what size is "big enough"?
    If you have a Harbor Freight store close by you might check this out:

    http://www.harborfreight.com/garage-...roll-5907.html

    I've used one and it seems to be a decent value for the non-professional shop.
    Sam Buchanan
    The RV Journal RV-6 build log
    Fokker D.VII semi-replica build log

  3. #3

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    I agree with Sam, the Harbor Freight and comparable stuff at Tractor Supply, et al, is adequate if you have patience.

    If you want to move up a couple steps in quality (and price), check out http://www.woodwardfab.com/sheet_met...ding_tools.htm

    Mostly cater to car guys but I am very impressed wth their tools.

  4. #4
    Mike Switzer's Avatar
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    Hmm.. Those 3 in one machines look interesting. The ones further down on the Woodward page are more like what I am used to using, but I can't justify spending anywhere near that much for no more than I will use it - and my shop is only so big.

  5. #5

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    I have a three way machine, they are a POS, the fingers on the brake will never give a smooth bend, the bent metal will always show a divot at each segment of the brake. Unless you pad the brake with .032 on each side the break will produce a bend too tight (radius too small) and crack T-3 every time.

  6. #6
    Mike Switzer's Avatar
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    Thanks, Tom that tells me something.

    I would like to find a heavier (older) machine at an auction, but if I don't I may consider this one (I don't really need the shear or roller for what I want to do)

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HCK-WFBP4816/

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Switzer View Post
    Thanks, Tom that tells me something.

    I would like to find a heavier (older) machine at an auction, but if I don't I may consider this one (I don't really need the shear or roller for what I want to do)

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HCK-WFBP4816/
    Some of the older tools that have seen a lot of use require as much "patience" as he current crop of discount tools.

    I think you'll be satisfied with Woodward tools, even if it buy them through Summit.

  8. #8

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    Grizzly has a full line of sheet metal tools also, quality is mediocre, and all finger brakes will need a pad to stop the edges of the fingers from leaving a divot.

    http://www.grizzly.com/products/category/520010

  9. #9

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    You do not need an expensive and talented bending brake if you bring some planning and patience into the equation.

    Each type of material has a different minimum bend radius. What I have done is the following:

    A) cut a number of strips of thin material
    B) Number the strips
    C) Put the first one into the jaws of the brake with minimum set back. Bend maybe 135 degrees. You now have a small radius. Leave the strip in the brake.
    D) Adjust the jaws of the brake back to accommodate bending another strip around the first. Bend. You now have a set of two strips with increasing radii.
    E) Again adjust the jaws of the brake back to accommodate bending another strip around the ones already in place. Insert another strip, bend, repeat until you have enough radius options for the parts that you intend to make.

    Having a set of radius strips allows you to quickly get the bend radius that you want. And for extra credit you can write the set back that each one needs on the part you will bend, right on each radius strip.

    Having a set of radius strips allows you to borrow or beg time on a friend's bending brake, or save some $$ by buying a less expensive used or new brake.

    I will note that borrowing time on another builder's, a friendly mechanic's or an EAA chapter's tools is part of the social experience of building. Building can get pretty lonely.....

    Hope this helps,

    Wes
    N78PS

  10. #10

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    I signed up for metal working at the Community College. There were several brakes among all the many, many other tools. My first emotion was that it would be nice to own many of these tools, but my shop is only 24 X 30.
    Bob

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