Hand Proping C-65

[Pearson]

I agree with what everyone else here is saying. I have an A65 on my Taylorcraft. I use my HOT START procedure anytime my engine has run long enough to get up to operating temperature within the last hour in winter and four hours in summer. My summer time normal start procedure is secure the airplane, pull prop through 6-8 blades (my way of priming), fuel OFF, throttle FULLY closed, mags hot, and prop it. If the engine has run within the last hour (four hours in winter), I don't use any prime and crack the throttle 1/8". If I mess up and start seeing fuel leaking, usually about one drip per second for 10-20 seconds, I turn the fuel off, mags off, throttle cracked 1/8", and turn the prop backwards 10-20 blades-depending on how much fuel was leaking. I have learned to keep an eye out for the fuel leaking and have been able to avoid major flooding incidents. After pulling the prop through backwards I usually let it set a couple minutes, then revert to the appropriate start procedure for the outside temperature. In the winter I use the same procedure as summer, but pull the prop through more blades for more prime (10-12 for 50 to 60 degrees--up to 16 or 18 blades if it is down in the 20s or 30s.

It does sound like you may have had a stuck needle. There are three different needles that have been used on the Stromberg carb, steel, delrin, and steel with a rubber tip. If yours is delrin or rubber tipped, it could be worn out. Or your float could have taken on some gas and not be floating properly. Bill's idea of lightly tapping on the side of the carb would jar loose anything that might have gotten stuck in the needle, or if the float was just cockeyed and stuck. If it keeps flooding you may need to take the carb apart to investigate the function of the float, needle, or just adjust the level. You don't need to take the carb off to do this.

It would well be worth the trouble to get another mag with an impulse coupler for at least one of the mags. Don't trade your shoe box mags in on a new Slick unit. You can find another used mag on Ebay or Barnstormers and either keep your shoe box as a spare or sell it.

Good luck,

[Dana]

Each engine, even two of the same identical configuration, has its own peculiarities and best starting combination. It's been some years so I don't recall the particular sequence for the A-65 in my old T-Craft, but it usually started on the first or second pull after turning the switch on (if cold). I do remember that it liked to be pulled slow. Hot, it could be a bitch to start. I had the Bendix shoebox mags with no impulse, and the Stromberg carb with no mixture control or air filter, just the brass heat box.

My girlfriend also had a T-Craft with an A-65, and it started completely differently.

[RetroAcro]

If you know you're going to need to restart the engine very soon after shut down (hot start), open the throttle fully after you shut the mag switch off. Letting the prop spin down with the throttle open will clear the fuel, and will help prevent flooding when you re-start it. **Be sure to return to idle position after the prop has stopped.** I assume your carb does not have an accelerator pump. If it does, then don't bother with this.

[wwillyard]

I have a Aeronca Chief, the mags are now Slicks with dual impulse. Cold starts (30 deg. F) 3 shots of prime, (45 deg. F) 2 shots of prime, warm up to about 4 hours since last run - no prime, mags and fuel off, throttle closed, pull 8 blades, set throttle and turn on mags always starts first pull. I would like to recommend another safety option not mentioned, I made a throttle stop that clips in place that will not let the engine operate above 700 RPM. I use this throttle stop every time I start hot or cold along with the fuel valve in the closed position. I know from experience that the engine will idle just long enough to pull the right wheel chock, get seated and retrieve the left wheel chock if you forget to open the fuel valve. With the use of the throttle stop I am comfortable using only the wheel chocks for engine starts (hard surface). I purchased the "Pilot Buddy" (13-04259, $32.50) from Aircraft Spruce as an alternate method to anchor and release the aircraft tail.

[Eric Brown]

I would always leave the fuel valve off when hand propping. At 1500 RPM the bowl would run dry in 30 seconds. That's all the longer you'd have hold back the airplane. Hot starts-- I would often fully open the throttle (mags off) and pull the prop backwards about 5 times. And then CLOSE the THROTTLE, turn on mags and hand prop normal. Worked 90% of time.

[highflyer]

The engine should have an impulse coupling. That will cure the backfire problem pretty well, and it should start on the first or second pull. Even the old Eisemann mags used with the balltop plugs had an impulse coupling.

Ever since line boys are no longer allowed to give you a prop ... yeah, I am that old ... I have added a cheap glider tow hitch to the tailwheel spring. I just tie a loop in a tie down rope and catch it in the tow hitch. When it starts and I am ready to go, I just reach down and pull the tow release. No pain, no strain, no caught fingers or long dangling ropes.