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  1. #1
    bwilson4web's Avatar
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    Sealing plexiglass, stop-holes?

    Hi,

    While removing some caulk, a 3/8" crack formed from the edge. I stop drilled it only to find a smaller, hair line crack formed from the stop-hole. A second stop hole and the part is stable. Fortunately this is just the wing tip cover for the navigation light so I only need a water-tight seal clear enough to pass light.

    Is there consensus on how to seal the stop-hole and/or water seal the crack?

    I did find an article using Acryfix to repair a canopy. But the article addresses canopy repair by laying up layers of UV cured, clear plastic. For a canopy that makes sense and it would work for the wing-tip cover.

    I've also seen references to using "Weld-On #4" and acetone dissolved plexiglass. Mostly looking for recommendations.

    I'm planning to use clear, GE silicon to replace the mold-growing, caulk.

    Bob Wilson
    Last edited by bwilson4web; 02-25-2012 at 05:52 PM.

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by bwilson4web View Post
    I'm planning to use clear, GE silicon to replace the mold-growing, caulk.

    Bob Wilson
    that'd be my choice, too.

  3. #3

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    Stop hole sealer...

    T-88 works quite well.

  4. #4

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    There is a product called Lexcel which is designed for use with lexan and/or plexi. I've found it in the caulk section at Lowes before.

  5. #5

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    'Mornin' all. I have done a number of things depending on the installation. In this case you might either use a bit of the sealant you are caulking with to just get it water tight OR or remember that a good bonding agent for joining (and patching) Plexi or Lexan is to melt shavings of the same materiel in MEK. Mask around the repair so you don't accidentaly make a bigger mess (I LEARN from my mistakes... sometimes)... When you get a melt that is smooth and just thin enough to 'spoon' in fill the hole. IF it won't stay or wants to drip you can put a little tin foil over it and tape it tight...both sides if you can't position it to get gravity to help.. i. e. a vertical piece being repaired in place. You can ultimately even use sand paper and a Micro Mesh kit to return the spot to transparent. BUT!! This does still leave a stress riser so if it's in a real windshield or a stressed piece (or God forbid a pressure vessel) I'd watch it carefully over time. This wants AT LEAST 24+ hrs to cure or it isn't fully bonded. Good luck. I have successfully bonded the edges of a Lexan guard that was about 8" long. The customer didn't trust it so I showed him a block wall to throw it against while I reached for my lunch... I won... :-))

  6. #6

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    sealing drilled stop holes in plexiglass

    There is a glue used in RC airplane assembly for attaching clear plastic canopies. It is called RC 56 canopy glue and comes in a plastic squeeze bottle. It is milk white and dries to crystal clear when hard and is flexible after hardening. I have used this in place of silicon rubber as a sealant as well and works great. Find it at your local airplane hobby shop.
    Last edited by fmworth; 05-01-2012 at 09:11 PM.

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