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  1. #1
    rwanttaja's Avatar
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    Insulated Bus Bars

    I'm getting ready to do some major electrical re-work on my Fly Baby. One thing I want to do is add a pair of bus bars to give a common point for power (a pair, since the Fly Baby has a wood structure and thus there's no structural ground).

    All of the bus bars I've looked at are just "bare." For the plus side at least, I'd like it to be behind an insulated cover in case a bit of metal or a wire somewhere comes loose and flops onto the bar. Could build a bit of a wood box, but I'm hoping someone someone knows of a commercial bar that includes a cover or other way to insulate the bar.

    Ron Wanttaja

  2. #2
    Most commercial bus bars are probably to heavy.
    Mc-Master Carr with 2 x 10 screws is rated for 100 Amp.
    9290T13 & cover 9290T26 will run about $42.00

    My recommendation, for size and weight, would be a ATC fuseblock with
    ground connections.
    http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...K%2012%20GANG/
    ITEM # 46063 $15.00

    ITEM # 46060 $11.00 - Six fuses.

    You can also find the ATC fuses with a build in LED. Fuse blows, circuit powered up, you'll see the LED telling you blown fuse.

    Tom
    Bearhawk builder

  3. #3

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    This might work: http://www.erico.com/products/ERITEC...ermination.asp

    It's an exterior bonding termination for residential electrical services. Can be easily found at the big-box stores or any electrical supply.


    'bout twelve bucks.

  4. #4

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    Have you considered a fuse block?

  5. #5

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    Make it....... from a copper bar stock, some brass flat head screws, solder the screws to the bar and run a heavy wire to the battery - side

  6. #6
    rwanttaja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Downey View Post
    Make it....... from a copper bar stock, some brass flat head screws, solder the screws to the bar and run a heavy wire to the battery - side
    I know how to make a bus bar, what I'm looking for is one that is insulated. I once had a car with exposed power leads...too big of a bump, and sparks would fall from behind the dash. I want the convenience of a bus bar, but completely covered.Kyle's suggestion is interesting, I'll look into it.Ron Wanttaja

  7. #7

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    The only way to get sparks from a buss bar is to have a loose connection,, don't have any.

    is it mounted on a wood surface?

    you could dip the whole thing in liquid electrician tape.

  8. #8

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    Ron
    After you have sized the bar for the ampacity required, lay it out for the distance between lugs you need, and drill and tap the holes. I would use a minimum of 10-32 tap size. Once the whole bar is drilled and tapped you can then slide the right size heat shrink tubing over the whole bus. After shrinking, the tapped holes will appear as slight depressions. Using a sharp pointed tool, poke a hole in each depression. Then
    using one of the lugs as a template, and a 10-32 screw, lightly tighten the lug to the bus. With a "sharpy" draw an outline around each lug. Next, cut out the heat shrink material from under the lug area. The remaining insulation should remain in place and provide the insulation safety you are looking for.
    Tom KJ9P

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