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I will be unable to fly my plane for 6-8 weeks. My plan is to change the oil and let the plane sit after flying it briefly with fresh oil and CamGuard. A friend suggested leaving it with the oil drained, he thought that might be better. I like my idea more, what say you mechanics? Thanks in advance. Glenn
You have the better idea. Keep the oil.
I don't think it makes any difference other than no oil might result in a major problem if you forget to fill it.
with oil
I don't see that it matters. Oil in the sump doesn't protect any of the parts (cam, crank, cylinder bores) that are subject to rusting.
In your climate I wouldn't be that worried about it. If you want to do it right, drain the oil and fill with preservative oil, run up to temp per Lycoming's instructions, spray some fogging oil in the cylinders, done.
For 6 - 8 weeks you do not need preservative oil. I will suggest never ever leaving an airplane that can be started and run, empty of oil. It just takes a minor mis-communication or brain fart to create a $25000 problem. Heck, I won't leave my airplane overnight without oil in the engine. And if I do have to walk away for an hour, I put a sign on the prop and on the instrument panel "NO OIL!".
Oil is cheap. Engines are expensive.
Best of luck,
Wes
90% of the light GA airplanes is this country sit for periods longer than 6-8 weeks throughout their life.
Good point.Quote:
Originally Posted by martymayes
I would put new oil in it with the Camguard, fly it, and then let it sit without moving the prop.
Thanks for the opinions. Glenn
This is true, but is also why many of them develop cam/ lifter issues due to neglect.Quote:
Originally Posted by martymayes
If it was used oil full of acid I could see a point to draining it. With new oil I can't see any point.
In any case, you would be wise to follow the manufacturers recommendations. In the case of Lycoming SL 180:
https://www.lycoming.com/content/ser...etter-no-l180bQuote:
INACTIVE ENGINES:If it is known that an aircraft is to remain inactive for 30 or more days, the following procedure should be applied to the engine, especially if the aircraft is located near salt water or similar humid environment.
I put a pyramid on top of the engine. Never had a problem.
Have not any of you folks heard of Aeroshell Fluid F fly away preservative oil? Funny, nobody has mentioned it. I recall it's good as a preservative for 3 to 6 months, and can be flown at any time with a 50 hour limit.Quote:
Originally Posted by gbrasch
I think a 25 watt lightbulb in the cowl to keep it above dew point is all that is needed.
But don't heat the bottom to make steam that condenses on the cold top and cam.
Just keep it 10° above dew point.
If you're using two 13W LED bulbs, should they be "Bright White" or "Soft White"? :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Berson
Ron "Welcome to the 21st Century" Wanttaja
This is precisely what I recommended in post #6, although not by brand name as there are others as well. This is Lycoming's recommended procedure. I think the time limit is 10 hours not 50, but I don't have the specs in front of me.Quote:
Originally Posted by whankinson
Fresh oil, Cam Guard, run up to warm oil. Shut down and don t move prop. Any longer, i would "fog" cylinders and comply with Lycoming proceedures.
Bill landry
One just has to ensure it is aligned to the Sun properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by CAVU Mark
:)
I agree, some of them develop issues. Lycoming recommendations are worst case scenario. I wouldn't call Arizona worst case. Know your environment.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Point
There is no dew point in southern Arizona, what is a dew point? :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Bill Berson
Come up here in about 5 weeks and we’ll show you.Quote:
Originally Posted by gbrasch
It might drop below dew point in the evening from heat radiation out to the night sky if parked outside or perhaps in a hangar with a metal roof.Quote:
Originally Posted by gbrasch
Even in dry country, if you run it only a few minutes the moist combustion gas gets past the rings and into the crankcase. I think it was Piper that tested periodic short engine runs for storage and found it to be worse than no periodic runs at all. The oil needs to get hot.
The upper surface of any tank tends to collect dew. My tractor diesel tank gets wet on the inside of the fuel cap.
I suppose the same happens in a crankcase. I wouldn't worry about it. I do nothing here just 400 feet from the pacific coast.