Torque Wrench Question

I just got my first airplane and did a builders assist program. I'm pretty handy but using a torque wrench was not something I needed to do until now. A couple of questions: Are digital torque wrenches accurate? I've had a few folks suggest that I should stay away from them but I have to say that my ability to detect a subtle "click" is probably less sensitive. Also, what are the items that generally require torquing? Although I used the wrench during the build process, much of the assembly (<49%) was done without my involvement. Are there fittings that are routinely torqued? I will contact the company that I worked with for more details but was hoping for some intel from this group as well.

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Originally Posted by olympiashorts

I just got my first airplane and did a builders assist program. I'm pretty handy but using a torque wrench was not something I needed to do until now. A couple of questions: Are digital torque wrenches accurate? I've had a few folks suggest that I should stay away from them but I have to say that my ability to detect a subtle "click" is probably less sensitive. Also, what are the items that generally require torquing? Although I used the wrench during the build process, much of the assembly (<49%) was done without my involvement. Are there fittings that are routinely torqued? I will contact the company that I worked with for more details but was hoping for some intel from this group as well.

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I prefer a beam type torque wrench. A digital wrench can be good but do not buy a cheap one as they can be wildly inaccurate. I use my torque wrench on almost all fasteners i.e. spark plugs, oil drain plug, prop bolts, head bolts, etc.

I have a pretty good hand for feeling torque but guessing is not something I like to do ...

Dale
3.0 Corvair/Tailwheel/Sonex

Since you mentioned that you're new to torque wrenches, these three videos are worth watching. The guy is a bit salty, but he's right on the money with respect to how these tools work and how to get good results with them.

When watching YouTube videos, use the letters "L" and "J" to jump forward and back 10 seconds. Useful for skipping long embedded sponsor advertisements...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5Xh9rtlIz0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EArGcEKnZ4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fwfnf06dl84

Gee, thanks for turning me on to a brand new YouTube rabbit hole! This guy is awesome. I now have to watch all his videos and I don't even work on my own car. Sheesh.

I love this bloke! Not often do you find a mechanic that uses the phrase "ontology and epistemic objectivity" in his explanations. Of course, the whole issue can be avoided if you are willing to go back to using a quality direct-reading beam torque wrench.

I own four torque wrenches. Two are beam type, and two are click type. The 1/2" drive beam type is one I bought at the dawn of the 1980s. I use the click type often, but the only ones I truly trust to be accurate are the beam torque wrenches.

There is no inherent reason why an electronic wrench should be any less accurate than a clicker or beam wrench; it's all about the quality. Both can get out of calibration if misused. A beam wrench has less to go wrong, but is often less convenient to use. I have three clickers and one electronic wrench. I like the electronic one for checking prop bolt torque because you can monitor the current torque like a beam, and have the audio feedback as well.