New here, new to aircraft building, and could use some advise.

Good afternoon,
I am in need of serious guidance here.
I purchased a Fisher Flying Products Super Koala from e-bay. It was not complete, and in fact, it had the cowling, wings, and the airframe.
Essentially, the frame is done, with the exception of minor repairs.
The previous owner used boat seats (See photo below) for the aircraft, but I sold those and purchased the Piper PA-28 rear seats, which should work just fine.
Attachment 3979
The frame is in really good shape for not being worked on sense the mid 90's.
Attachment 3980
This Super Koala came with only the wings for plans, and I figure that sense I'd have to essentially pay for the complete replacement parts directly from Fisher, I'll put my own spin on this wonderful aircraft.
I've designed my own instrument panel, which its mostly complete minus the actual instruments, wires, throttle quadrant, and the mounting. The panel is an oak wood, stained with a mahogany finish, and has a protector sealer on it much like lacquer. It's got the nav/comm cutouts ready, the transponder ready, the Tach, and oil temp guages, along with a Dynon D100 for my PFD.
It'll also sport a dual USB outlet, and a DC outlet for the passenger. I will add some lights under the glare shield, and and a few other things.
Attachment 3981
The aircraft came with the Rudder assembled, not covered, and the elevator finished and covered.
The wings came without flaps, and with a stall speed of 35mph, I doubt I need it.
The internal cockpit has a lot of work to be completed. It's got the dual controls, and the rudder attachments ready.
Attachment 3979

What I need advise with:
Modifications to design
1.) I want to plan the a cargo door over the top of the top of the aircraft. It'll be located right behind the cockpit and will have the space for 2 bags measuring 23"X13" each. Basically just enough room to put a tow-bar in there, and have 2 light weight overnight bags for my passenger and myself. The compartment would have a lightweight protective "box" like structure in between the first and second horizontal brace. I also want to have hooks for a small cargo net so things don't shift while in flight. That is my only restraint for the cargo.
The opening would be at the top of the airframe. I need to know about how to mount the door, and how to make the door.
Attachment 3984

2.) Fisher offers wing tanks for the aircraft. Each tank is 7 gal, and I want to have two in each wing (totaling 28 gallons) plus the header tank (12 gallons) which should give me a total fuel capacity of 40 gallons. I need to know how to tie both the right tanks together, tie both the left tanks together, and then having a fuel selector valve to regulate which tanks the engine is drawing fuel from.

3.) Sense I've never built an aircraft before, I'm trying to figure out how to run the cables through the aircraft along with the wiring for the lights.

4.) The tail-wheel is attached, and the metal bracket is attached to the base of the rudder. It's ready for the cables to be attached to the rudder peddles and the rudder. So, How would I attach the tail-wheel to the rudder and to the rudder peddles?

Cockpit:
1.) I want to have some sort of molding around the floor so that when we enter and exit the aircraft, we're not tripping on the pipes. I want to design something that the "guts" of the aircraft do not show, and minimize the risk of snagging on the cables and pullies.

2.) What is the best option for getting a windscreen and attaching it to the air frame? I don't want the windscreen to look like it's held in place by a bunch of screws like the aircraft below. I want the aircraft to be aesthetically pleasing. This aircraft pictured is not mine, but is another one found on ebay.
Attachment 3982

3.) What is the best way to "hide" the wires, cables and all the other "things" that you don't want to look at?
Attachment 3983

4.) In the picture above, you see there is only lap belts, and I want "Y" belts for the aircraft. I need to know how would I go about installing the seatbelts in such a way it will actually protect and not rip the wood frame. I was thinking of metal pipes attached to the airframe. Your thoughts?

Covering the aircraft:
1.) I've never covered an aircraft before, and I'm trying to figure out what is the best material to use. I read about Oratex, and sounds like a good option.

2.) How would covering the top of the aircraft with the cargo door installed.

Misc questions:
1.) I know that drilling screws into the wood is not recommended for the aircraft sense it looses it's structural strength. So, what is the best way to attach piano hinges for the panel (I want piano hinges so I can flip the panel forward in case I need to work on the electronics), How to attach the ailerons, and the cargo door. Would it be wise to surround the areas with aluminum, encasing the wood before drilling into it?

2.) Where is the best place to put my fuel selector switches?

The Super Koala was originally a Light Sport aircraft, but with my modifications, I will not be able to keep it under the LSA category.

Thanks for your help everyone!Attachment 3985
Here are some photos of my panel:
Attachment 3987
Attachment 3988
Attachment 3989
Attachment 3990

Trevor, Have you joined the Fisher use group? https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/ffphomebuilts/info
This is your best source of Fisher specific information.
SpecificationsEngineRotax 503Rotax 582LCEngine Hp5264Wingspan31’31’Wing Area140 sq. ft.140 sq. ft.Height5’7”5’7”Length18’1”18’1”Fuel Capacity8 gal.8 gal.Fuel Consumption @ 75%3 gal/hr.4 gal/hr.Design Loads+4.6 -2.3g+4 -2.2gDrive TypeGearedGearedGross Weight740 lbs.830 lbs.Empty Weight350-375 lbs.375-400 lbs.Construction Time500 hrs500 hrsField Assembly Time30 min20 min

Note gross weight. Consider this when you start loading the plane. If you have an empty weight of 400# you have a useful load of 430 pounds - fuel with your extended tanks will be 180# leaving you with 250# for people and gear.
The Covering you mentioned is excellent but will be costly. Consider uncertified fabric and acrylic paint as the lightest and least costly of covering/finishing. see this http://bcove.me/hkevu2sh - BTW there is no latex in latex paint - it is all acrylic and should be called home acrylic paint for your aircraft
You are on a steep learning curve, Welcome
Jim Heffelfinger
FP-202
Yahoo groups moderator

I second using ceconite (fabric) covering and painting in exterior latex - and I'll call it that because that's what you'll buy, no matter what it's made of - no need to cause a ruckus in the paint store. And the Stewart System is a builder's best friend. ;)

Piano hinges on the panel won't be a problem, as the panel isn't structural. The bits that move on the hinge need to be as flush with the rest of the panel as possible when closed, though.

One of the things you'll learn as you go is to ask what is structural versus what is cosmetic, as it gives one an idea of what can be used and what can't....and where there's room to fudge with materials and techniques.

The best way to lock down that windscreen is with beefy bolts as you showed. There's a lot of pressure against the windscreen in flight and cosmetics takes a back seat to durability. There's a number of ways to make those bolt heads look better, though, from painting a border to a removable aluminum shroud that extends below the engine cowling over them.

Fuel selectors should be placed where they are easily reached, easily read, and away from casual contact. Are you planning on drawing from the tanks to the engine, or having them feed into the main tank and refilling it?

Jim is right - get with the builder's group, as they've made 95% of the mistakes you'll make otherwise already, and will be happy to learn about the 5% of completely original ones you'll make so that they can avoid them. Note - be brutally honest with other builders and show your crappiest or questionable work up front with a spot light on it and stick in the good stuff as an addendum. Questionable = "I think I did this right, what do y'all think..."

On concealing "stuff you don't want to see," be careful. Control lines and linkages are things you really, really want to see every time you look in your aircraft. Wiring should be tidy, though. And everything adds weight.

Weight is why the original builder put in the boat seats (pic doesn't show), most likely. Start piling on "extras" and you may find your aircraft over gross if the fuel tanks are full and the passenger and pilot at 350 pounds (combined). Good rule of thumb is to take the gross weight by the specs and reduce it by ten or fifteen percent (if not more) as your goal when fully loaded for when it's a hot day or you're flying from a high altitude airport. Here in Alabama my airport at 280 feet above sea level is routinely at 1,500 feet or more owing to density altitude in the summer.

And find your nearest EAA chapter and walk into your first meeting carrying a part of the aircraft. That's what I did, and it was one of the smartest moves I've made. It doesn't matter if a guy is doing a ground up restoration of the Bell X-1 or bolting together weight shifting ultralight - all builders will have some insight in one aspect or another in your journey.

Heck, I started out not knowing how to work a rivet gun or what a gusset was, and I'm at the 80% finished, 90% left to go stage on my own plane. It's the community of builders - both in my type and in completely others - that has made me successful.

Congrats Trevor. Sounds like a great project.

Take your time as you get things sorted and organized. There's standard ways of doing things with wooden airframes, after all, they been around a long time. Don't try to reinvent the wheel and avoid ALL temptation to add weight. The yahoo group is a good hangout to learn from other builders. Keep us posted!

Ahhhhh Trevor...this takes me back to 1993 and my first experimental project, the Super Koala:

Attachment 3993

N6169C was a fine little docile bird with a 582 that was basically a two-place ultralight. And all the exposed wood in the cabin was one of its finest features that always got a lot of compliments.

But in reading your post I see one word over and over.......HEAVY! I know the temptation is strong to make your first plane one that satisfies all your wants and needs, but you can't rewrite physics. The SK is a light plane and any attempt to make it something else will lead to disappointment...and possibly worse.

The aircraft you want is the Dakota Hawk which is much more suited to loading up with extras. You will be best served to keep the Koala light, simple, light and light. This means no interior, no extra baggage space, and no extra fuel. Start adding all that stuff and as has been pointed out, you will have a nice plane that has no weight remaining for a pilot and passenger.

Also keep in mind that when you exceed designed gross weight, you are cutting into the designed G-load limits. I don't recall the designed load limit for the Koala, but it isn't very high.

In case I haven't articulated my suggestions based on flying a SK for 175 hrs........build it light. Enjoy the journey! :)

P.S. There is no way I would fly a two-stroke powered aircraft at night...........

How much would just the frame and wings go for sense it's already completed? I bought the air frame for $1,500 total.
The cost for the quick build is about $10,000 but these are completed parts.
What I would like to do is build a RV-7 and if I could get the right price for the air frame, I would be willing to sell it and get something more suited for cross country flying.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trevor Norman

How much would just the frame and wings go for sense it's already completed? I bought the air frame for $1,500 total.
The cost for the quick build is about $10,000 but these are completed parts.
What I would like to do is build a RV-7 and if I could get the right price for the air frame, I would be willing to sell it and get something more suited for cross country flying.

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I don't know how to value the bits and pieces you have, they are basically worth whatever you can get someone to pay for them. If you have decided the Koala is not the best option for you, you would probably do well to just try to get your money back out of the deal. You won't be able to get factory quick-build price for your airframe because a buyer will not have the assurance of buying a kit built in the factory.

The RV-7, while being a fine airplane (I've been flying my RV-6 for 15 years) is a huge jump from the Koala, 'bout a $60K+ jump. But if you are ready to commit to a multi-year project that will most likely consume far more $$$$'s than any other toy you've had, and have family support, you can end up with a very capably aircraft. The RV community is by far the largest and deepest in our corner of the aviation universe when it comes to technical assistance.

Best wishes to you regardless of which path you take!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trevor Norman

How much would just the frame and wings go for sense it's already completed? I bought the air frame for $1,500 total.

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I'd say if you could get $1500 for it, you'd be doing great. Flipping projects is not a lucrative business.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trevor Norman

How much would just the frame and wings go for sense it's already completed? I bought the air frame for $1,500 total.
The cost for the quick build is about $10,000 but these are completed parts.
What I would like to do is build a RV-7 and if I could get the right price for the air frame, I would be willing to sell it and get something more suited for cross country flying.

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Hi Trevor,
No doubt you've sold your Super Koala by now?

Looks like a good Beginner project with a high degree of completed parts.

As for covering, I would master a system on some simple test frames, get real good confidence in the process before going to cover the airplane.

As for the fuel selector question keep all critical items like fuel selectors in your forward field of view and easy to see & reach location, Use Aluminum lines & AN "B" nuts for the routing and connections from the tanks to the carb.

Hope this Helps,

Spencer

Tech Counselor Composites & FWF