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I've done a search on here and have read some old postings concerning Stewarts, but I'm hoping to hear from current users. Anything pro or con you'd like to share. I'm building a Kitfox SS7 and not sure which covering process I'm going to use. I like the non toxic Stewart system but have never used it. Again, looking for any info. Thanks
Brian
I used the Stewart's System on my Highlander. I built and painted the plane in my garage which is attached to my house. I couldn't use any of the solvent based products because even with a good ventilation system there is no way to keep the smell out of the house. You will still need a ventilation system and use a respirator when spraying but there is almost no smell. The glue is the best, very easy to use and very forgiving. I used a four stage turbine sprayer which Stewart's says can work but they do not recommend it. I had trouble getting the paint to flow out smoothly and had to do a lot of trial settings and practice. Since this is the first time I've painted anything with spray equipment I don't know if it would have made any difference what type of paint I used. It still would have been a steep learning curve.
I ended up with a paint job that I look at and can see all the mistakes but everyone else seems to think it looks great. If you use Stewart's follow their recommendations on setting up the compressor and spray equipment. Buy the Stewart's DVD's and watch them closely. Keep in mind that they have re-formulated the paint since the videos were made so it is not mixed or applied exactly the same way. You still want to watch the videos because the basic process is the same and they offer lots of good info and tips. The paint is mixed by weight now which is very easy to do but you will need a digital scale and take your time. The good news is the paint now has a much longer pot life, up to 3 hours, up from 45 minutes.
Follow the written instructions that come with the paint and don't be afraid to ask questions on the Stewart's forum or call them directly. They were very helpful to me. You can look at my build log for details on my covering and painting process. I just had my inspection and received my Airworthiness Certificate yesterday!
John Nealon
mykitlog.com/jnealon
Attachment 6753
I have covered several planes using nitrate/butyrate dopes, Polyfibre, and have supervised two recovers with Stewarts. All end up with equally fine finishes. If I recover a plane again, it will be with Stewarts. As previously stated, follow the Stewart directions to the letter and it will work out just fine. If going onto an experimental, I would consider deviating only in the finish coat for a less expensive and easier to work with Polyurethane or maybe even an Acrylic Urethane. But up to the finish coat, I would follow to the letter. If going onto a certificated aircraft, I would follow to the letter through the finish, as required by the STC.
I covered and painted my Breezy with Stewarts. Highly recommended. They had some issues early on but seem to have worked through them. Longevity is still an unknown but with 42 hours on the plane, so far so good.
No need to buy the DVDs as Stewart's has put the videos up on YouTube for free. You can learn a lot about their system from those at no cost.
Here are 2 planes in Stewarts from my chapter. The S-18 has 1100+ hours on it. The -8 is still in the final assy stage but the paint is excellent. a "2 foot" paint job.
Attachment 6768
Attachment 6769
I have a CD set that came from Steward systems. These CD's explain all that is needed to cover an airplane. They cover or show how to cover every piece of an airplane in the cd set. If I can find a link to this cd set I will post it. Maybe others here have more info on this. This was given to me by an eaa member.
Tony
Those videos are in the public domain on YouTube now. A search for "Stewart systems" should find them.
Stewart Systems videosQuote:
Originally Posted by Kyle Boatright
I have nothing but good things to say about the Stewart system for covering.
The glue is super user friendly. Since it's heat activated, one can position and re-position fabric at will right up to the point of putting the iron to it. One can even leave it on (pre-heated) and come back to it later. It is tacky, so obviously one won't want to leave it uncovered for too long. I only used a clamp or two in initial lining up of large pieces of fabric, but did a "tack weld" with the iron in some spots and then removed the clamps.
Like everything in building, it's easy to learn and somewhat difficult to master - my very amateur learn-from-video covering job isn't going to win any awards - but it's all straight forward and just a matter of taking time to improve techniques. I can throw fabric around a tight bend without a crease - only to make it look horrible by botching up the tapes. Grrrr.
Now, then, a caveat: I didn't use any of the Stewart fill or paint products, and it seems a lot of complaints come from them. For my little Nieuport I used good Household Exterior primer and paints, which worked out great.
Attachment 6772The Stewart System products work well, they are DIFFERENT than the other products that I have used, CAB dope, enamels. The big issue with Stewart is,or was if the formulations have changed, is that it IS NOT fuel proof with auto gas. The undercoatings and glue will hold up to 100LL avgas but auto gas,Possibly the "cleaning additives"which are in E0 recreational gas as well, will dissolve them both. The poly top coat will be okay but the finish will blister and glued seams can separate. Just something to be aware of.
Auto gas hasn't effected my covering's glue in the slightest.
Stewart's is great for all the reasons others have mentioned. However, be aware that you have to fog it on lightly or you'll just make a mess and waste the paint. The top coat has to be fogged on VERY lightly. You sort of sneak up on applying it. If you get too aggressive or impatient, you'll soon find yourself wasting your time and money wiping off the alligator hide you've created. The wee droplets of paint like to sit by themselves on the surface before they extend their arms to their neighbors and come together. Too many droplets and you get a riotous finish. You will be amazed at how glossy the finish is, regardless of the humidity outside.
This advice runs completely contrary to my experience with SS paint. The top coat must be applied as a medium wet coat at least to get a decent gloss. The initial coats are to be fogged in lightly through color saturation, but such fogging leaves the surface looking like 1000 grit sandpaper- which is exactly what you want prior to applying the final wet coat.
To be honest, I don't really like glossy finishes on fabric.
Auto gas with ethanol will raise the paint and soften the glue if you don't catch it in time. Less than half hour. I painted my plane in 2016 with Stewart process.
It was great as everybody here has said. But I have a wing off now, replacing a couple tapes and sanding down a lot of paint, because of gas
leak with car gas with only 5% ethanol. That being said, I am recovering a certified airplane now, that will only see AV gas, with Stewart and
have no second thoughts about it.