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I'm just about done with my rib jig board, and I'll be starting work on building ribs this week. I've never worked with spruce before (lots of previous wood working experience, both art and furniture-type stuff, just no spruce), and wondered if there are any tips or tricks to it?
Get the DVD from John Gaertner at www.BlueSwallowAircraft.com
I have the first one, he just sent out an email saying he had disc #2 available now, it is on my list of stuff to order this week
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I reference Peter's site frequently...read the whole blog before deciding for sure on the Tailwind! :) Very well written blog.
Good tip on the sanding...didn't know that.
I'm a bit biased since I work on putting these together but the Hints for Homebuilders video tips are a great source. Here is a link:
http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1531204362
I was looking for that exact tip this weekend on the HFH video site...missed it somehow! :rollseyes: Thanks Charlie...
I don't know how much bend is in your capstrips, but if there is much, you might have to build a steam box like this one and pre-bend the capstrips in a form. Here is what I did for our Pietenpol ribs.
Attachment 287
The steam machine is a wallpaper steamer from Lowes. It has no trouble raising the temp inside the box to 212 deg.
Attachment 288
The former is a 2x8 cut on a bandsaw. The capstrips dry out overnight in the former.
Attachment 289
My grandson does the nailing with a pin nailer from Harbor Freight. Works great and fast.
I use this stapler for building ribs. http://www.jimslimstools.com/Product...__1D0001N.aspx with 3/16" crown staples.
My experience with Harbor Freight air and electrical tools has been less than stellar and at times dangerous.
That's quite a tool you built there Allen! I won't need a steam box for the Tailwind ribs...all I need is the spar forward to be soaked/steamed.
Could you post some more details about the box though? Curious...
I have a pin nailer from HF that I've used with success for years around the house for interior trim...looks like the same one your grandson is using too!
The steambox is 65" long and built of pine 1x6 screwed together and caulked at the seams. A hinged door that seals well on the front with 2 shelves inside to facilitate circulation around the sticks. A nylon 3/4" thru hull fitting from the marine store is installed at the top and hooked up to the wallpaper steamer tube. At the far end is a 1/8" vent hole and hole for the temperature probe. I used an electronic thermometer from my deep fryer. Pipe insulation protects you from burns around the metal fittings that attach the steam tube. I steam for 3 sticks at a time for about 1 hour and then clamp all 3 in the 2x8 former overnight.
On the ribs I made for my Hatz project (the one that gathers dust in the basement), I used a piece of PVC pipe with a cap on the end, filled it with water, just soaked the capstrips for an hour or so. When they came out, I then put them in a press I'd made, clamped them in the press overnight to dry, then pulled 'em out the next day, curved and ready to go.
The press was a 2' chunk of 4"x4" that I cut into lengthwise on the bandsaw. The lengthwise cut was a top airfoil template. I put the capstrips between the two halves, then clamped them so the strips would dry into the airfoil shape.
Charlie, the Hints for Homebuilders have been very helpful to me. Thank you! The EAA has developed an excellent presence on the Web. Wel done.
So after ripping cap strip stock from rough lumber, it shouldn't be sanded a bit?Quote:
Originally Posted by Seerjfly
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Thanks for the feedback conodeuce. That reminds me that I need to put up a post asking for ideas and suggestions.Quote:
Originally Posted by conodeuce
I use kyle's method with the PVC pipe filled with water but i let it set overnight and then clamp in the bending jig overnight till it's dry. Works great. No steam box required.
skeeter
That's exactly what I decided to go with this week as well. Since my ribs don't have a dramatic bend, I have a four foot 3" PVC pipe that I can fit 12 sticks (as many as my bend jig block will hold) in easily. I'm working on getting one rib done, then I'm going to kit the rest of the ribs this weekend so I can make one per day or so til they are done.
Chad,<BR><BR>We made a simple steamer for bending the rib cap strips on the WACO. The strips are 1/4" x 3/8" spruce. You don't need to steam the whole stick. You are only bending the leading edge area. The aft portion of the stick will bend just fine cold. <BR><BR>How much spring back ( overbend ) in the form block is needed depends on the dimensions of the sticks as well as which way the grain runs. On my cap sticks for the light (stick built) ribs thye growth rings are visible on the side of the bent stick. On the 1/4" x 3/4" sticks used for the solid ribs the growth rings are visible on the curved (wide) face of the sticks. The wide sticks needed less overbent because of this.<BR><BR>There is and easy way to do some experiments to figure out the shape of the form block to get it spot on. It's alway better to over bend then not bend the sticks enough.<BR><BR>Here are some of my blog posts which you might find useful.<BR><BR>Building first rib.<BR><BR><A href="http://nc3397.blogspot.com/2009/11/building-our-first-rib.html">http://nc3397.blogspot.com/2009/11/building-our-first-rib.html</A><BR><BR>Bending wide cap strips<BR><BR><A href="http://nc3397.blogspot.com/2011/01/bending-34-x-14-cap-strips.html">http://nc3397.blogspot.com/2011/01/bending-34-x-14-cap-strips.html</A><BR><BR>Nailing Gussets<BR><BR><A href="http://nc3397.blogspot.com/2009/11/great-neck-magnetic-brad-nail-driver.html">http://nc3397.blogspot.com/2009/11/great-neck-magnetic-brad-nail-driver.html</A><BR><BR>and<BR><BR><A href="http://nc3397.blogspot.com/2009/12/wing-rib-gusset-glueing-nailing.html">http://nc3397.blogspot.com/2009/12/wing-rib-gusset-glueing-nailing.html</A><BR><BR>Making Gussets<BR><BR><A href="http://nc3397.blogspot.com/2010/12/wing-rib-triangle-gussets.html">http://nc3397.blogspot.com/2010/12/wing-rib-triangle-gussets.html</A><BR><BR>and<BR><BR><A href="http://nc3397.blogspot.com/2010/02/wing-rib-nose-gussets.html">http://nc3397.blogspot.com/2010/02/wing-rib-nose-gussets.html</A><BR><BR>Trimming Gussets after glueing<BR><BR><A href="http://nc3397.blogspot.com/2009/12/trimming-wing-rib-gussets.html">http://nc3397.blogspot.com/2009/12/trimming-wing-rib-gussets.html</A><BR><BR>Trimming The Leading Edge of the Ribs<BR><BR><A href="http://nc3397.blogspot.com/2010/02/rib-leading-edge-fixture.html">http://nc3397.blogspot.com/2010/02/rib-leading-edge-fixture.html</A><BR><BR>I hope these help.<BR><BR>Good luck,<BR><BR>Dennis
Thanks Dennis...wonder if there is a way to clean up the blog links? They all run together on my computer...
Dennis, you include some terrific high-resolution vintage photos on your web site.
For those who haven't seen them: http://nc3397.blogspot.com/2009/11/early-pictures.html
What was your source? Would like very much to see more. Thanks.
Chad,Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad
I'm sure there is a way to clean up that mess but I was so upset when I saw how it displayed I just gave up. I have problems like this with the BlogSpot software also and got pretty good at forcing it to look good until they upgraded the software. I'd rather just work on planes. I have a lot of WACO NINE photos and have found more factory photos from the shooting in 1926 done around the time my plane was built. I google the web from time to time and keep finding more. I recently took photos of some original NINE wings without fabric but have been to busy with making a living to post them. Summer is almost over and I'll be able to get back on this and the Cessna 140 project. I may even have time to weld the new fuel tank for the Fly Baby.
I've had a lot of fun putting the blogs together and it has helped me keep working on the planes. If you're not using staples check out the nailer. It is one of the coolest things I've found.
Later,
Will do Dennis! Hope to see more pics of your NINE!!